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Re-Starting a 72 Bowface

This is a discussion on Re-Starting a 72 Bowface within the Beginner Saltwater Aquariums forums, part of the Saltwater Fish and Coral Reef Tanks category; --> At least post some pics. Lets make sure you are looking at ich, and not some other virus of less consequence....

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Re-Starting a 72 Bowface
Old 03-04-2010, 03:16 PM   #91
 
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At least post some pics. Lets make sure you are looking at ich, and not some other virus of less consequence.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:34 PM   #92
 
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I will try to get some pics of the Blue Tang but he normally hides when I go up to the tank and in the past pictures are to hard to see. The other odd thing is that when I got home the Wrasse did not appear to have anything on him now. I'm hooking up the UV now and gave them some Ocean Nutrition with Garlic Guard tonight. I will use the Ocean Nutrition each feeding for a week to see what happens.
Also I tested the water and everything is great including the Nitrate which is now 0 again. I no longer have the Emperor only LR, Skimmer and UV.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:39 PM   #93
 
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I found a similar process on my Coral Beauty when feeding garlic. The spots just seemed to come and go at an unnatural pace. Another member here is 'treating' with garlic only right now and is 17 days into a successful treatment.
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:49 PM   #94
 
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The Blue Tang is camera shy so here is a pic of the Dotty Back. The Sailfin Tang has it also but it is hard to see because of his color. Look at the back fin, front fin and top fin. It is also on the body but you just cannot see it in the pics. The Blue Tang is a lot worse or it just may be easier to see on him.
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File Type: jpg Ich 2.jpg (127.9 KB, 22 views)
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:56 PM   #95
 
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That is starting to set in pretty good Brad. If it were my tank, I would lower the salinity to 1.016. Just do a series of water changes, replacing the saltwater with freshwater. You could wait to see if the UV arrives tomorrow and give it a few days, but I'm afraid the next round of ich will be very heavy, and you may want to pull out the options now.

Keep in mind, as soon as you begin to medicate or alter the environment, you are adding an additional stress to the fish. So it is not without risks. However, many people believe that the lower salinity makes it difficult for the parasites to thrive, and allows the fish to devote more energy to their immunity system. I have used this method many times, honestly with mixed results. However, the results have been far greater than with medications.
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Old 03-04-2010, 09:35 PM   #96
 
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Here is the Blue Tang
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File Type: jpg Ich Blue Tang 2.jpg (111.5 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg Ich Blue Tang 1.jpg (104.7 KB, 22 views)
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Old 03-04-2010, 09:37 PM   #97
 
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The UV came today and it is on the tank and running as of about 8:30PM.
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Old 03-04-2010, 09:45 PM   #98
 
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How are their breathing? Are they very labored?
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Old 03-04-2010, 10:39 PM   #99
 
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The Blue Tang has it a lot worse than the others, but actually they all act fine including the Blue Tang. They swim actively, have a great appetite and do not appear to have issues breathing.
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Old 03-05-2010, 06:15 AM   #100
 
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Tangs are more susceptible than other species of fish, they don't have a good slime coat. I have seen my Hippo get ich and it ran its course. It never got that bad, but if they are still active and not breathing heavy and labored, then you can still fight the infection. I agree with Pasfur, hyposalinity is probably your best bet. Any medications you use will stay in your system for a long time, and not necessarily do any good.

Do you have a QT set up? I always wonder how the microfauna will fare in hyposalinity, and if it would be better to isolate the inhabitants away from the tank for 90 days.
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