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Questions and Suggestions?

8K views 57 replies 7 participants last post by  Raymond07 
#1 ·
So I've been doing a lot of research around and I want to do a mini reef but I've still got questions and want to make sure that what I'm planning will work out and everything is compatible! So here are the spec possibilities:

10 gallon with 13 gallon sump/refugium (space issues)
OR
13 gallon with ~5 gallon sump with AquaClear 70 Refugium

EDIT: and I just found out that my second 13 gallon in fact did not have a leak as I previously thought earlier today so I could do a 13 gallon with a 13 gallon sump!

I assume the last option would be best?

It will be a reef tank so I've been trying to sort out corals and what works/doesn't work. Mostly I want to stick to easy corals and these are what I've been looking at lately. I will use live rock and live sand. Using liveaquaria as a reference.
Tree Coral
Torch Coral -I understand this is aggressive and to keep it away from other corals.
Sun Polyp Coral
Duncanopsammia

Those are the ones I would really like but of course, if anyone sees any real issue with these, please let me know! These are the other ones I was looking at but unsure about.
Green Polyp Leather
Colony Polyp

Also, are any of the corals on this site worth looking in to? I like the look of the colt coral and the star poylps.

And then potential stocking, going as for my 10 gallon and then if I do the 13 it will just be nice extra space.
The one I know I'm absolutely getting is the Red Ruby Dragonet from my LFS. And then I assume probably only one or two other fish would work for bioload? I have three other choices unless I can add two fish. I also like the look of the Yellowstriped Cardinalfish or White Banded Possum Wrasse or my LFS has these nano bred ocellaris clownfish although I don't know if they are actually nano or just labeled that way. I do trust that LFS though as they usually have a very knowledgeable staff and great selection of fish/plants/saltwater stuff/equipment.

I understand the water change schedule although I haven't researched on how to do them yet. I also understand the importance of keeping water quality good. My tap water is steady at 7.0, will I still need to use R/O water? Also I have 3 dKH and I had issues reading my GH kit today but I think it's very soft if that's the lowest reading...I'll recheck that soon. Do I still need to buffer to raise my KH/GH?

Lighting, what would be best for a tank that is 16 inches deep for the corals that I would prefer?

I think that's the most of it for now, if anyone has any suggestions at all please let me know! I'm open to most things ^_^
 
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#28 ·
Turns out the tank only comes with the tank, stand, and sump. he's not including the pump that goes with it and there's no live sand in the tank but there is in the sump where the refugium is. There is also no live rock either so is 250 worth it? Should I try to talk him down to 200 if this is the case?

Thanks for info badxgillen.
 
#30 ·
Wow, okay good to know. I offered 200, have yet to--checking email currently to see what the guy said---well that was a rude ending! Here's what he said to my offer:

"really why you waste my time if i had it for $275 and dropped to $250 what makes you think im going to let it go for $200 the SQWD alone is about $80 i could get at least $150 for the sump cause i sold 2 of them i know i made these sumps goodbye this would be the last time we speak thank you"

what the hell is a SQWD anyway?

Anyway, still trying to wrap my head around the corals bit. So a Torch and a Hammer won't really sting each other because they are both euphyllia? But some other species will still be aggressive with the same species?
 
#31 ·
So I found this listing: Fishtanks and Supplies it's like 20 minutes from where I live and he's got a 40 gallon drilled, I have no idea if he still has it because at present my phone is not cooperating and letting me pay by phone bill >.> So I can't call >.< but the listing was put up a month ago so I just really hope! 25 for a 40 drilled? Sound good? I know that still leaves a lot of stuff to get but it's a start, yeah?

Also for a R/O system, does this look good? Portable Mini Reverse Osmosis Di Ro Water System 4STAGE | eBay

So I still have a bunch of unanswered questions here, I'll post them again to this post so maybe you can copy and paste and add in your answers in a different color or something?

1. So mixing corals, I know I can't have hards and softies next to each other, correct? Can I have them in the same tank or are there different requirements? What kind of mixes should I stay away from completely? Can I have SPS with Softs in my tank? Are LPS out of the question? Still a little confused on corals and what I can have together and what I can't. I see they have different care and lighting requirements, I should probably keep to low maintinence and low-medium lighting for the most part?

2. So if I used these as Taz touched on: Saltwater Aquarium Buffer: Kent Marine Superbuffer-dKH pH Buffer and Alkalinity Builder and Reef Aquarium Care: Kent Marine Liquid Calcium Supplement with the regular salt mix, is that comparable to using the reef crystals only? Is going one way better than the other if this is the case?

3. I saw another journal about waiting for algae blooms before adding corals, do I have to wait for just diatoms to pass or other blooms as well? As in freshwater, the blooms won't hurt fish, correct?

4. Where can I get the rock? I don't believe I recall seeing it anywhere in my LFS's so probably online? Any fairly decent cheap places that I could get it? --I'll check my LFS again hopefully today.

5. What the hell is a SQWD anyway?

6. Oh, almost forgot, where can I get macroalgae for the refugium? Does it matter which species? I think there's different species, right?

I think that's all of them.....for now lol I apologize for all the questions but I do want to do this right!!
 
#32 ·
1. So mixing corals, I know I can't have hards and softies next to each other, correct? Can I have them in the same tank or are there different requirements? What kind of mixes should I stay away from completely? Can I have SPS with Softs in my tank? Are LPS out of the question? Still a little confused on corals and what I can have together and what I can't. I see they have different care and lighting requirements, I should probably keep to low maintinence and low-medium lighting for the most part?
You can have all of these in a tank together, they just cant touch,Yes you should stick to easy corals and as you gain more knowledge and experience try the harder corals. SPS are a the harder ones to keep, lps next, and softies are generally easiest. When you find a coral you want just research it and figure out what it needs and you wont have too many issues.
2. So if I used these as Taz touched on: Saltwater Aquarium Buffer: Kent Marine Superbuffer-dKH pH Buffer and Alkalinity Builder and Reef Aquarium Care: Kent Marine Liquid Calcium Supplement with the regular salt mix, is that comparable to using the reef crystals only? Is going one way better than the other if this is the case?This one i dont know, i use imagine ocean salt mix, i never need to add anything like that. You need to test these before adding anything. If they are low then add. And i recommend seachems line of the priducts Aquavitro

3. I saw another journal about waiting for algae blooms before adding corals, do I have to wait for just diatoms to pass or other blooms as well? As in freshwater, the blooms won't hurt fish, correct?
Yes, you will wait for the diatom bloom to come and pass. There could be other blooms after or before the diatoms. Everyones experience differs lol,
4. Where can I get the rock? I don't believe I recall seeing it anywhere in my LFS's so probably online? Any fairly decent cheap places that I could get it? --I'll check my LFS again hopefully today.
Bulk reef supply, reef cleaners, marco rocks, marine depot, are some of the best sites. Word of caution never buy from aquacon
5. What the hell is a SQWD anyway?
Your guess is as good as mine lol
6. Oh, almost forgot, where can I get macroalgae for the refugium? Does it matter which species? I think there's different species, right?
Reefcleaners, reefs2go
Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/...tions-suggestions-390834/page4/#ixzz30mIUQ5KQ
 
#33 ·
So I found this listing: Fishtanks and Supplies it's like 20 minutes from where I live and he's got a 40 gallon drilled, I have no idea if he still has it because at present my phone is not cooperating and letting me pay by phone bill >.> So I can't call >.< but the listing was put up a month ago so I just really hope! 25 for a 40 drilled? Sound good? I know that still leaves a lot of stuff to get but it's a start, yeah?
$25? oh yes thats good!

Also for a R/O system, does this look good? Portable Mini Reverse Osmosis Di Ro Water System 4STAGE | eBay
Eh... try air,water ice they specialize almost in rodi i use one of their units and its great, their customer service is also excellent
Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/...tions-suggestions-390834/page4/#ixzz30mLobtBi
 
#34 ·
Thanks again killavixen! ^_^

I have to find that listing again so I can call the guy! Here's to hoping!
 
#35 ·
SQWD (should be SCWD) stands for Switching Current Water Director. It is basically a device that creates random flow in the tank and is generally not very good.

You can get any size tank of craiglist and either have your lfs drill it or you can do it yourself with a diamond tip glass cutter piece. Ideally you want one drilled with included bulkheads so you dont have to buy them.
 
#36 ·
Lol! He was charging me 80 bucks for it because he made it himself! I told him; you wouldn't pay for a used car at it's original price, would you? Geeze, some people! He told me he didn't care about the money either :roll:

And thank you! I'm still a bit rusty on the hardware part of this all. I've heard that rigid plumbing is better than soft? Is this true or just personal preference?
 
#37 ·
Plumbing wise it is personal choice but a lot of people use them both.

Soft tubing coming from the overflow to the sump and then hard plumbing for the returns.

Hardware is quite simple really, it sounds complicated but it really isnt.

You basically need (this is in an undrilled tank)
1) Overflow to get water from the tank to the sump
2) Return pump to get water back to the tank.
3) Split from the return line going back into the sump.

In a drilled tank it is almost all the same. Expect you wont need an overflow box as the drilled holes will be your overflow, you would only need bulkheads to fit the holes (bulkheads need large holes than the actual bulkheads).

If the tank is drilled for both an overflow and return then a return nozzle assuming it doesnt come with one.

Pump will be dependent on the size of the tank and how far it has to pump back to the tank, and also the flow rate of the overflow bulkheads.

If you want to go hard plumbing then add some union fittings so you can take them apart if needed.
 
#38 ·
Okay! Thank you for the explanation! Although I'm confused on what the split is? Where does the split go? Any pictures of this? I'll try to google some to see what I get since I learn better with nice pictures ^_^
 
#39 ·
Okay I see what the split is but why does it go back into the sump? What function does that serve?
 
#40 ·
Okay, just looking at stock again because I'm bored lol. This is stocking as for a 40 breeder that would most likely have a 20 gallon long sump, preferably drilled.

Pair of Nano Ocellaris Clowns from my LFS (How can I tell if they are bonded?)
Yellowstriped Cardinalfish
Chalk Bass
Scissortail Dartfish?
Red Ruby Dragonet
Maybe a Royal Gramma?

All fish are single unless otherwise noted. Would the Darter and Dragonet be fine together if I prove enough caves/division between area's? Also, can I have more than one type of cardinalfish or is it best to stick with one of any species unless a bonded pair? And I know to have absolutely no spaces in the hood with Dartfish or really any fish, I've had enough fish carpet surf to know it doesn't matter what the species is lol. Although....none of my guppies have ever jumped :roll:
 
#41 ·
Pair of Nano Ocellaris Clowns from my LFS (How can I tell if they are bonded?)
These are ok. One should be bigger than the other.
Yellowstriped Cardinalfish
This one is ok, and you could probably get 2-3 of these as they dont get very big and have a really neat hierarchy
Chalk Bass
This one is also ok
Scissortail Dartfish?
This one is also ok, but it will jump i suggest using eggcrate over the top of the tank
Red Ruby Dragonet
This fish is not for beginners, It is fickle and it needs a very mature tank in order to survive and have ample food supply. Im not saying you cant, im just saying you should wait.
Maybe a Royal Gramma?
These can be bullies and are usually mean in my experience. But every fish differs so you may now have any issues lol


All fish are single unless otherwise noted. Would the Darter and Dragonet be fine together if I prove enough caves/division between area's?they would be fine together, but as i mentioned the dragonet isnt suitable for a beginner
Also, can I have more than one type of cardinalfish or is it best to stick with one of any species unless a bonded pair?
I'll let someone else answer this one

Also if try using this AqAdvisor
And i can recommend a few fish if you can give me an idea of what you would like in color or chracteristics
Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/...tions-suggestions-390834/page4/#ixzz30rLaCCAz
 
#42 ·
Yeah, I always use AQadvisor for literally everything lol.

Thanks for the tips, I'll steer clear from the Gramma anyway. Basically what I want is a tank that looks like a saltwater--yes that sounds silly but basically, no salties that look like they could belong in freshwater as far as colors go so I'm looking for more of the bright colors.
 
#43 ·
OK, small, cute and colorful
clown goby
panda goby
Cherub angelfish
Flame Hawkfish
Coral Beauty
Midas Blenny
Bluespot jawfish
Lemonpeel Angelfish
Lyretail Anthias
Orchid dottyback ( get a small one)
These are just a few i think you may like. Im not saying get all these but they are some options
 
#44 ·
Thanks for the list! I love flame angels but I prefer to stay away from any that might even been a little dangerous to the future reef.
I like the
Blue Dot Jawfish and the Orchid Dottyback!

Hmm, I see that I can keep more than one Dottyback in the tank provided enough hiding places, floor space and they are added at the same time. Can I do this? I really like the look of the Orchid, Splendid, I really like the Striped since it's more peaceful than its counterparts.

Gahhh, so many choices!!!!
 
#46 ·
Yeah, as much as I like the look of the Splendid, I'll try to steer clear from the semi-aggressive ones as much as possible. Although I know each fish as their own personality as well! But I was thinking maybe 2 Striped and 1 Orchid? I'll have to watch some videos on these guys and search other places for experience unless you guys have kept any of these fish ^_^

So definitely on my list are the hopefully bonded pair of Nano Clowns so I need fish that would be peaceful with them. I know the Yellowstriped Cardinalfish will be pretty peaceful as well as the Stripped Dottybacks so then the Orchid is a maybe since it's listed as Semi-aggressive. I think I'll strike the Chalk Bass as well just to be safe. I like the look of the Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse as well as pretty much all the Fairy Wrasses, mostly the Longfin Fairy Wrasse. Will different wrasses tolerate each other? I would like a Sixline Wrasse as well since I heard they're decent cleaners for unwanted pests. I see they can be a little aggressive to other wrasses, anyone have experience with these guys?

I do plan on keeping these guys very well fed, I already have plenty of frozen foods from my Betta's and other microfish. I also have live worm cultures, can salt fish eat these worms too? I've got grindal's and white worms for my Dario Dario, Ember Tetras and Gelius Barbs. The Corydoras Habrosus and Wild Honey Gouramis like to snack on them too :)
 
#47 ·
Back on the plumbing parts of this. Still confused why you'd split the return and have it go back into the sump, is this some sort of safety thing?

Also, I have been looking into drilling my own tank, I've been watching videos and such about it but confused still on what size hole I want. Also, do I want a out hole AND a in hole or just out and have the nozzle go up and over the tank? Also, where should I put the hole? I see there is requirements on where is exactly the hole is like how far from the edge it is and all. Also, I see I could put it on the bottom or have multiple drainage holes but how exactly does it work if it's on the bottom, how would I not pull the sand in?

It's also looking like I want to make my own Sump from a 20 long with a refugium in the middle. Good idea?
 
#49 ·
Back on the plumbing parts of this. Still confused why you'd split the return and have it go back into the sump, is this some sort of safety thing?

Also, I have been looking into drilling my own tank, I've been watching videos and such about it but confused still on what size hole I want. Also, do I want a out hole AND a in hole or just out and have the nozzle go up and over the tank? Also, where should I put the hole? I see there is requirements on where is exactly the hole is like how far from the edge it is and all. Also, I see I could put it on the bottom or have multiple drainage holes but how exactly does it work if it's on the bottom, how would I not pull the sand in?

It's also looking like I want to make my own Sump from a 20 long with a refugium in the middle. Good idea?
a few things to consiider if you drill.... be sure the glass is not tempered.. if it is.. you can not drill it.. it will shatter into a million little pieces just like your windshield.. the only differance is the tank is not safety glass and has no middle membrane to hole the itty bitty shattered pieces together..... also.. how will you skim your tank.. by using a weir or overgflow.. you are assured there will be no slick on the surface.... as far as the bottom goes... you use a stand pipe to get above the sand...again... the glass on the bottom might be tempered.. there are usualy warning labels on them against drilling..
 
#48 ·
OK im no good with the plumbing stuff, but the 20 long sump is a great idea. I keep an orchid dottyback in my 14g biocube with my two clowns. No problem. I had a sixline wrasse and it nearly harrassed my poor clown to death. Any other wrasse is ok and do well together. BUT Wrasses are not always easy. But i havent had any success in keeping them alive, i had a fairy wrasse . $100 died after two days. But i think the carpenters are supposed to be easier. Long acclimation, ask about the fish before you buy, Where;d it come from, whats it eating, ask them to feed it in front of you, & how long has it been there.
 
#50 ·
Thanks again guys, yeah I saw that your Fairy had died Killa, that always stinks! Especially when they're expensive. My acclimation is always long, for freshwater I do 1 hour Drip minimum and if I feel they need more, they get more so I'm good with all those stuff.

As for the drilling, yes I know about the tempered glass. The Aqueon 40 breeders are non-tempered glass ALL the way around which is rather nice.

So which is more efficient? having a stand pipe or having a hole in the side? Now I'm confused on what would happen with just a hole on the side as it looks like I would still need some sort of overflow box or weir? I'm really enjoying the look of the "coast to coast" overflow though, inside the tank.
 
#51 ·
Thanks again guys, yeah I saw that your Fairy had died Killa, that always stinks! Especially when they're expensive. My acclimation is always long, for freshwater I do 1 hour Drip minimum and if I feel they need more, they get more so I'm good with all those stuff.

As for the drilling, yes I know about the tempered glass. The Aqueon 40 breeders are non-tempered glass ALL the way around which is rather nice.

So which is more efficient? having a stand pipe or having a hole in the side? Now I'm confused on what would happen with just a hole on the side as it looks like I would still need some sort of overflow box or weir? I'm really enjoying the look of the "coast to coast" overflow though, inside the tank.

Take a peek at my build in this forum.... I need to updat the pictures since I've changed my sump/filter design a little.. but the documentatiion is there... I made my own overflow box... in fact I made everything except the tank...it might give you a few ideas.. or maybe confuse you more:lol:...

my water stays crystal clear and never has any floating debris or film... IMHO.. the skimming weir is the way to go.. but agian I'm new to salt... alot of what i learned as a fresh water hobiest does not apply.... one thing that I realy like about the weir, is the fact that I can shut off the pump for filter service and the sump can never overflow...even if the weir were to loose it's prime.. the way I have the sump/refugium partitioned off, the tank can never overflow eiter... winner winner... hard to do that with overflows and bottom drains unless you have a really massive sump and high stand pipe..that for me.. to be effective needs to be close to the bottom...again.. I'm a salt water newbie so my salty knowledge is limitied...
 
#52 ·
Thanks Roccus, yeah I did take a look at your setup a while back when the Reef tank was just a glimmering thought running through my mind ^_^

I more or less get confused the more pipes people add to their set-ups lol. I'm certainly no expert on how a weir on toilets work and all so I'm going to ask my dad to explain that all to me and perhaps I will understand it better with a live conversation rather than reading since I'm not a good learner when it comes to simply reading something. I prefer to ask questions and make sure that I'm understanding it correctly in which text can only offer so much in that aspect :)

So, I'm going to need a weir (probably center placed), drilled holes for intake and return. Is that sounding right so far? I know there's a formula on which size hole to use for certain amount of water flow and stuff but I'm no good with math. Anyone just want to tell me what size hole and pump I should get that will work well together? lol
 
#53 ·
Thanks Roccus, yeah I did take a look at your setup a while back when the Reef tank was just a glimmering thought running through my mind ^_^

I more or less get confused the more pipes people add to their set-ups lol. I'm certainly no expert on how a weir on toilets work and all so I'm going to ask my dad to explain that all to me and perhaps I will understand it better with a live conversation rather than reading since I'm not a good learner when it comes to simply reading something. I prefer to ask questions and make sure that I'm understanding it correctly in which text can only offer so much in that aspect :)

So, I'm going to need a weir (probably center placed), drilled holes for intake and return. Is that sounding right so far? I know there's a formula on which size hole to use for certain amount of water flow and stuff but I'm no good with math. Anyone just want to tell me what size hole and pump I should get that will work well together? lol
not many pipes in my set up..one in one out. both go over the top.. neiter is realy visiable form the front ... a 1" hose can handle approx 600GPH...fittings( 90 degree) and length of run as well as hose size and type( smoothe wall versus corrigated) all figure into the equatiion...if you are that set on making holes in your tank rather than going over the edge/top.. be sure you have the bulk head fittings first... then you will know what size hole to make.. a 1" bulk head fitting needs about a 1 1/4" or 1 5/16" hole... but check the fitting first, as they do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer..you only get one shot at it....
 
#54 ·
Right, I mean, I could just do the overflow and run the piping over the top of the tank. It wouldn't be that much an issue, I just don't want potentially 45 gallons all cascading in my bedroom if it fails. So hence why I wanted to drill but if everyone has had success with just the regular overflow and piping over top then I'm not so opposed to doing it; saves me money and time really lol.

Still, where would I buy a weir? Are they custom or would I have to buy online?
 
#55 ·
Right, I mean, I could just do the overflow and run the piping over the top of the tank. It wouldn't be that much an issue, I just don't want potentially 45 gallons all cascading in my bedroom if it fails. So hence why I wanted to drill but if everyone has had success with just the regular overflow and piping over top then I'm not so opposed to doing it; saves me money and time really lol.

Still, where would I buy a weir? Are they custom or would I have to buy online?
I made my own.. they are for sale on line and at quality LFS.... if your sump is designed properly, and your weir is self statring, you should never be in danger of a flood.. some require a siphon break, those are the ones that can flood, but a self starter and a properly sized sump eliminates the problem... search through the forums here.. I got alot of my ionformation by researching the older posts in the DIY and water chemistry threads...some people put alot of effort into providing good information, it's well worth the effort to find it..
 
#56 ·
Bulging side on Cory Catfish (Getting Bigger)

My girlfriend and I have had our 10gal tank for going on 8 months. We have grown comfortable with correct changing and cleaning of the water. We clean the rock bed every other change, resulting in a small build up of green algae on the rock surface. Our tanks pH is good and the healthiness of all our fish is overall good. However, one of our Cory Catfish has a lump on his side that continues to grow, he swims frequently and normally and eats at his normal rate along side his catfish school of four. Can anybody help diagnose our cory? We don't want to lose any of our fish, any help would be appreciated. I have posted pictures below.
 

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#57 ·
My girlfriend and I have had our 10gal tank for going on 8 months. We have grown comfortable with correct changing and cleaning of the water. We clean the rock bed every other change, resulting in a small build up of green algae on the rock surface. Our tanks pH is good and the healthiness of all our fish is overall good. However, one of our Cory Catfish has a lump on his side that continues to grow, he swims frequently and normally and eats at his normal rate along side his catfish school of four. Can anybody help diagnose our cory? We don't want to lose any of our fish, any help would be appreciated. I have posted pictures below.
You've posted in the wrong place! Go to Tropicalfishkeeping.com and scroll down to "Tropical Fish Diseases" and at the top of the list of threads on the left hand side there is a button that says: "New Thread" click that and post all your information there.

EDIT: but just because it is here, it looks like he may have a tumor which is untreatable in small fish. Normally I would suggest Epsom Salt to reduce the fluid build-up but because he is a scaleless fish, that is a bad idea and will only hurt him more. There's not much else you could do for him if it is in fact a tumor unfortunately.
 
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