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Green Algea

This is a discussion on Green Algea within the Beginner Saltwater Aquariums forums, part of the Saltwater Fish and Coral Reef Tanks category; --> Originally Posted by Nessie I;m not sure of the exact weight of live rock I have in the tank at the moment, I will ...

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Old 06-04-2009, 11:09 AM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nessie View Post
I;m not sure of the exact weight of live rock I have in the tank at the moment, I will have to try and weigh it, is it important to know this figue??? I know I pulled alot out and have about a third of my original amount, but will try and get a true weight for you.

well we are just curious since the recommended guideline is 1.5 to 2 lbs/gal of tank volume, in order to provide sufficient biological filtration from your liverock. For example (an extreme example ) if you have 10 lbs of liverock in a 100 gallon tank, then that's really not going to be effective. If you've got 150-200 lbs of liverock in a 100 gallon tank, then you'll be fine.

But like onefish said, don't bother pulling it out and weighing it, no need to disturb the tank like that. Just try to get a loose estimate for yourself ("do I have a lot of rock in my tank, or just a little bit?"). If you've only got a little bit, you might consider trying to add some more, as liverock is more than something to make the tank took good, it's a very important part of the filtration!
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:51 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Kellsindell View Post
The reason your test kits aren't reading NO3 and PO4 is because they are bound in the algae. If you didnt have any of those minerals, you wouldn't have algae. You need to manually pluck the GHA out of the tank. Get a bowl full of water and pluck a pinch full out of the tank. Then dip your hand in the bowl to rinse the GHA and any spores released into the freshwater and then do it again. Yes, it sucks, but manual removal is the best. You then need to do a water change, 10%, and try to catch any GHA that's free floating. Then the next day, do it again and then the next day and you'll see you'll have success this way. I never recommend scrubbing the rock as that is only temporary and the roots just grow right back.

This could be the result of the bio-balls releasing finally and it's messing your parameters up.
Oh sorry i must have mis-understood, I thought one fish was refering to our water supply RE: tank or bore water. This week end though we were so frustrated with the whole tank and took every rock out and scrubed every last bit of this algae off it and vacuumed out all the sand and replaced it with new. The results I will attach in photo's. the water testing 2 days after are as such:
Phosphates between 0.25 and 0.5
KH 11dkh - 196.9 ppm kh
calcium 420ppm mg/l
Nitrate between 10-20
PH between 8.4-8.2
Amonia 0ppm mg/l
Nitrite 0ppm mg/l
I don't know if what we done was right, and I hope that this is the last we see of that dreared green hairy algae, I just wish I knew why we got it in the first place and how to stop it in the future????
Here are some photo's though of the tank after cleaning.





A BIG improvement, don't you all think.If any of you can tell by my testing anything I may need to do to keep this quality of tank I would really appreciate it.
OH and I have started removing the Bio Balls and we think our live rock is about in total between 40 and 60 kgs. We have 357ltr tank is this enough???OH and I forgot to add we changed 80ltrs of the water and replaced our blue lights, we are still waiting on two new white day lights or sun lights to come then all the lighting will be new as well.

Last edited by Nessie; 06-08-2009 at 02:01 AM..
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:18 PM   #13
 
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Removing the bioballs will be the biggest step to reducing your algae issues and phosphate levels.

I also think your live rock structure needs improvement. (sorry) The structure is tightly packed, allowing for dead spots of water flow. If you could spread out the rock a bit, and reduce the rock/sand contact areas, it would greatly improve water flow and help to eliminate areas of detritus buildup.
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:34 PM   #14
 
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yeah, the nitrate and phosphate readings show why you were having algae problems. Scrubbing the rocks cleaned the tank up temporarily, but without reducing/eliminating the nitrates and phosphates (as removing the bioballs will help) it will definitely come back. Algae needs basically two things to grow: light and nutrients. Nutrients mostlly refers to nitrates and phosphates.

Ideally, phosphates should be zero, and nitrates should be zero or as low as possible. You should consider getting a phosphate reactor, they are pretty cheap and a good way to keep the phosphates locked in at zero. It is basically a tube/container that you put phosphate absorbing material in, and pump the tank water through. You can either build your own, or you can purchase one for around $30 (not bad considering the cost of most saltwater-related equipment). Phosban is a good media to use in a phosphate reactor... it lasts a while, and supposedly won't re-release phosphates into the water once it "fills up".

Phosphates will enter your tank through (1) water top-offs and changes, if the freshwater that you use for top-offs and mixing saltwater contains phosphates, (2) frozen cubes and other foods that you put in your tank to feed, and (3) the breakdown of organic wastes that don't get removed from your tank by your skimmer.
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:53 PM   #15
 
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The reason you have the GHA in the first place is because of nitrates in the water. As long as you have more then 0ppm of nitrates and PO4 then you'll always have the chance of it returning. Scrubbing doesn't solve the issues it only temporarily gets rid of it... you need to lower your nutrient levels.
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Old 06-09-2009, 01:28 AM   #16
 
Thanks all for this advise. Pasfur I have started to remove the bio balls,Kelinsdell and conger, Nitrates have always been a problem for me, They used to have a reading off the charts. I was wondering about chaetomorpha algae that you put in the sump, I read it reduces nitrates and phosphates, do you think this would help in my case. If so where do you actually purchase it, I haven't seen it here in our local fish stores. THanks for the tip on the rock structure as well, that certainly makes good sense, I will try and move them around a bit. One more thing on the nitrates, I have been told if you have fish in the tank, then you will always have a reading of some sort of nitrates, because it is produced through the fishs wastes, the trick is to try and keep it down as far as possible, More fish more nitrates... I have not been able to get mine below 10 - 20. So I have one maroon clown, she is quite large, two green chromies and two domino damsels, which I brought mainly as water monitors, I feed them twice a day, a very small pinch of dry food, which I crush up finely. Is this too much feeding?, should I only feed once a day???????
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Old 06-09-2009, 09:35 AM   #17
 
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I personally feed a pinch once a day every other day. Cheatomorpha will help reduce this. You can get it online, but if you go to you LFS and ask for some Macroalgae from their own refugium, they'll have some. Most LFS has a refugium becasue they are so well adept at decreasing nitrates and phosphates.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:43 AM   #18
 
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i have 0ppm nitrates in my reef. i have an overated skimmer, sump with chaeto, and i feed every 2-3 days. some corals or other things when needed. a mixture of food is best and if using frozen foods, prerinse them with ro/di water or alittle tank water in a fine mesh net or coffee filter until the water is clear before feeding. the bioballs im sure were one of your problems.
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:10 AM   #19
 
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I also have 0 ppm nitrates and several fish in my 90 gallon, though I attribute that to my deep sand bed (no refugium in my sump... design mistake made it too small to be effective). I wouldn't recommend you add more sand to your display (might mess up the current bacteria population and cause a mini-cycle), but if you have a sump with a refugium chamber, you might consider putting a deep sand bed in there. Do you other guys agree?

As long as you can get at least 4" of sand in your refugium, deep sand beds are great at keeping nitates locked at zero (as long as you have a good skimmer and good flow to complement it). it may take a couple of months or more for the proper bacteria to grow and multiply, so it won't be an instantaneous solution, but once it gets established its a very nice thing to have.
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Old 06-12-2009, 05:45 AM   #20
 
Thankx again 4 yer replies, Conger I'm only a learner here and so forgive my ignorance, but I don;t know if I have a refugium chamber, can you tell me what that is, I took out more Bio Balls today that is about Approx 20 bio balls on Monday and the same today . Is this enough? if so I will continue this pattern of Monday and Friday take out about 20 balls,one fish I see now I may be feeding to much, but what if you have like corals or anemonies, that need feeding, how ofen do I do that??? I have a great deal of trouble keeping an anemonie alive, I feed them once a week with frozen shrimp, which I put in the tank and the Clown fish pick it up and feed them, But every time I get an anemonie, it just closes up and in the end shivels up and dies. How do we keep them happpy and open????? It has been one week since we did the major clean, and have had no green hairy algae. so far, fingers crossed we may have did something good.
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