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frist saltwater tank help please

This is a discussion on frist saltwater tank help please within the Beginner Saltwater Aquariums forums, part of the Saltwater Fish and Coral Reef Tanks category; --> i herd the purple up is crap and doesnt work i dont know much about it though should ask some 1 else...

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frist saltwater tank help please
Old 10-07-2007, 04:45 AM   #11
 
i herd the purple up is crap and doesnt work i dont know much about it though should ask some 1 else
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Old 10-15-2007, 09:41 PM   #12
 
our tank and rock is turning brown it is also growing on the glass looks like brown algae is this normal during a cycle. The 2 hermit crabs and the feather dusters all same fine still moving. If purple up is crap what should i use than? Thanks for the help
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Old 10-16-2007, 12:23 AM   #13
 
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I don't agree about the purple up, I use it and it does seem to help.
The algae is normal, you will go through various stages of algae growth during cycling.
Now is the time to get the test kits, watch the cycling phase carefully if there are inverts in the tank. Inverts are much more sensitive during cycling and to water quality in general. Considering the size of the tank, if you don't add anything more for a few wks, let things do their jobs, you should be fine.

The number 1 rule of thumb in keeping saltwater is patience!

If the tank is cycled successfully before adding your fish, and you add only a couple at a time, giving a few wks in between additions, I see no reason why firefish, a diamond or yellow watchman goby, ocellaris clowns (no more than a pair), and maybe something like a coral banded shrimp can't all work for you. The trick with a 44 hex is in not getting fish that get "long" or large, keep them peaceful (no room in there for anything aggressive), and watch out when it comes time for corals, anemones, and lighting. Hex's are one of the harder tanks to light for saltwater because they are deep, which requires a fair amount of light to reach the animals, and there is limited space to put it. I have seen a lot of people work with pendant lighting for a hex tank as a solution. If corals and/or anemones are something you really want, do some research on species so you know what needs less light and what is compatible. Some corals won't tolerate each other, and some anemones won't tolerate being that close to corals. Also watch the species of clownfish, not just for aggression levels but also for sizes. Some get larger than others. The best suited for a 44 hex are the ocellaris aka nemo clowns.

Other options to discuss with your son:
emerald crabs
snails... many different types to eat different types of algae and keep the sand bed clean
bangai or pajama cardinal fish
orchid dottyback
research your blennys, algae eating blenny would work with a goby if there is enough rockwork in the tank and you can keep them close in size; the way to have them both is blenny and firefish (firefish are a species of goby)
if you do indeed have 2 small brittle starfish now, I wouldn't add any other starfish... the greens can be quite aggressive when they get larger, so you'll want to watch out for that as it grows.
rock anemone
star polyps (green or yellow)
bubble anemone
capnella coral
xenia coral
any of the smooth mushrooms

These are just some of the animals to consider, obviously they won't all fit into your tank. If you find things that appeal to you, it will help to eliminate and/or add species to the list of what is ok to mix in 44 gallons. The smaller the adult size of the fish the more of them you're going to fit into the tank safely. Also, keep in mind that firefish are schooling fish and should be kept in a group of at least 3 - 5.

As for jawfish, I won't suggest these to a beginner. This is not an easy fish to keep. They are seldom seen, extremely sensitive to everything... llight, stress, illness, water params, etc. Once a tank is well established, (2 yrs at least), and experience is gained, everything is stable, maybe then I would suggest one... but not a good fish for new tank or beginners.

Let us know if there's anything more we can do to help!
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:47 PM   #14
 
Thanks for the info will keep it in mind. I'll get a test kit tomorrow on my way home and post the readings.
Thanks again
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:41 PM   #15
 
this is the stuff i have on hand some is in use on the FW tank and SW tank the rest is just sitting around. should i or shouldn't i use some of this in the SW. Plans are now to turn the 120 FW into a SW and put the FW fish in the 40 in my sons room for him because of the weight of the tank almost 523 lbs for SW instead of 332 lbs for FW (??). what do you think??? what else should i buy and how soon. Will post water readings tomorrow. Thinks for your help.
RENA 400 PUMP (fw)
RENA 300 PUMP (fw)
Aqualight Pro HQI Fixture 48" 2-150w (fw)
DUETTO DJ-100 FILTER (sw)
EMPEROR 400 FILTER (??)
Fluval FX5 Canister Filter (fw)
Magnum 350 Pro System Canister Filter (fw)
AquaClear 20 (201) Powerhead (sw)
ETH 300 IN LINE HEATER 300W
UV 5 CLARIFIER
25W AQUASTEP UV STERILIZER (fw)
Aquatic Gardens Profile Aquarium Heater 150 Watts (??)
QUIET ONE PUMP 800
Ario 3 Air Pump with red leds (fw)
PERFECTO U/G FILTER 18 X 48
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Old 10-18-2007, 10:44 PM   #16
 
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If planning to use halide lighting, get rid of all of the hang on filters to start with. You don't want the spray that will happen under the lighting. The fluval FX5 should be good for canister for the 120. The 300 watt heater should stay, power head should stay... remember that combined (not all from one source) power head GPH should equal 10 - 15 times the tank capacity. For a 120, figure GPH should equal 1200 - 1500 total combined flow rate.

As for lighting, I have to say, hang onto everything and wait until you determine what animals you will be keeping, so you will be adding only what you need and only needing to do it once. Lighting is very important to corals, anemones, etc. and different animals have different needs. We can coach you as you select animals.
Important: Do Not use the U/G filter system in saltwater!

There is also equip not mentioned that should be included on your list, such as skimmer, UV sterilizer, test kits, etc.

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-24-2007, 08:31 PM   #17
 
i have these 1- UV 5 CLARIFIER, 1- 25W AQUASTEP UV STERILIZER. the only thing i don't have is the skimmer which one would you suggest for under $250. i have the API saltwater test kit
ammonia - .50 ppm
Nitrite - .25 ppm
Nitrate - 10 ppm
ph - 8.0
temp - 80f
there are bubbles coming from the sand and the algae on the rocks it looks like brown hair growing on everything should i worry about the bubbles or is this normal? I am looking at making a 35 to 45 gallon sump/refugium to put the skimmer in. I have seen these little critters running around the rock in the tank feather dusters are everywere rock sand this is good right?
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Old 10-24-2007, 09:08 PM   #18
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taklein65
i have these 1- UV 5 CLARIFIER, 1- 25W AQUASTEP UV STERILIZER. the only thing i don't have is the skimmer which one would you suggest for under $250. i have the API saltwater test kit
ammonia - .25 ppm
nitrite - 0 ppm
nitrate - 10 ppm
ph - 8.0
temp - 80f
there are bubbles coming from the sand and the algae on the rocks it looks like brown hair growing on everything should i worry about the bubbles or is this normal? I am looking at making a 35 to 45 gallon sump/refugium to put the skimmer in. I have seen these little critters running around the rock in the tank feather dusters are everywere rock sand this is good right?
This would be my first choice for a skimmer: http://www.aquariumguys.com/nautilus.html And that's not a bad price, either. You will want to shop around, though. I would not invest my money in a used skimmer, there are a lot of things to check to be sure one is working properly and with used equip, you can spend almost as much in fixing one as you would spend in buying it brand new in the first place. This one would be suggested for in-sump usage. I use one of these on a 175 tank and I love it to death. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and easy to adjust if needed.

The bubbles are just air trapped in the sand and it will dissipate on its own as time goes on. You should notice it subsiding within a few days to a wk. The brown hairy stuff on the rock is what we call "die off". This tends to be sponge algae growth that dies due to the move and change of conditions. This is one of the biggest reasons I never suggest cycling with fish in salt water. Most rock will produce some type of die off simply from being exposed to the air and time it takes to move it from one tank to another. This die off will break down into ammonia, and will contribute to cycling the tank, so no fish are needed for the ammonia content. In some cases (many cases) the ammonia spikes from die off can be overwhelmingly toxic and can happen quickly in a new tank with little to no bacteria culture established, especially in a tank where there is a lot of new rock put in at once. A new saltwater tank averages 6 - 8 wks to cycle once the live rock and sand are put in.

The little critters are likely to be copepods, and yes, these and the dusters are normal and a good sign of a healthy tank that is just getting started. Patience and watching the "critters" is the best thing you can do at this point, while obtaining any additional equip and getting it all hooked up. These "critters" will help your tank in various ways and are nothing to worry about.

So far it sounds like everything is awesome! Keep us posted and feel free to ask any questions you may have along the way!
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