Fluval Edge 6 gal? - Page 9 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #81 of 126 Old 01-04-2012, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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and i top of with distilled water right? and how much of a water change do i do a week? and how exactly do i do it? just suck out a certain amount and throw back in the same amount?
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post #82 of 126 Old 01-04-2012, 03:23 PM
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Yeah, top off with distilled or RO water.

Water change, 20-25% weekly. And yeah, make sure the tank is topped off then remove the amount you are changing and add the new water back. Just like FW except you're adding SW. It's important to make sure the water is topped off first though because if not, the salinity will be increased due to evaporation then you are adding more salt water on top of that with the water change so the salinity gets even higher.
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post #83 of 126 Old 01-04-2012, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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ohh ok. So top off with distilled/ r/o water, 20-25% SW change every week. Got it! What happens if you don't do it every week? does it get nasty and kill your fish?
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post #84 of 126 Old 01-04-2012, 03:34 PM
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I doubt it but you certainly don't want to go much longer than a week if you can help it. It's really similar to FW but the livestock tend to be more sensitive so you have to be more careful with water parameters. If you are using a skimmer and/or chemical media, your stocking levels are on the low side, and you are not over feeding then you can probably get by with a little more time between water changes. Now if you have corals in the tank I wouldn't push it past a week because the corals really depend on those minerals and stuff being replaced by the water changes.

Topping off though really must be done daily or every other day if you have very little evaporation.
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post #85 of 126 Old 01-04-2012, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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well i never change the water in my cichlid tank. Think i have done it once in the last 6 months. hahaha water is still crystal clear and tests good. Guess the filter that works up to 100 gal on a 35 is a little over kill.

But ok will make sure to do it every week. I have rats i have to clean their cages once a week and snakes so just another thing to add to the day.
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post #86 of 126 Old 01-04-2012, 04:18 PM
If your going to change 25% of the water you don't need to do that much every week. You can do that amount every 2weeks. You should change 10% weekly or 25% every 2 weeks. But I'm messed up, my parameters don't go out of range, meaning Ammonia-0, Nitrites-0, Nitrates-0-5, so I change 30% every 3 months. I do this at the 3 month period for the Trace Elements in the salt. In a Reef, you'd be better off doing every 2 weeks, unless something gets out of whack.
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post #87 of 126 Old 01-05-2012, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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HaHa everyone has conflicting views! Anyways, just found out from my cousin that an apartment above her store may be opening up in February so i am going to wait until then to put the 55gal together so that i do not have to move it in a month. So i will update this with pics of the tank all set up when i get it together. Going to start buying small bits here and there for now.
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post #88 of 126 Old 01-05-2012, 09:01 AM
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standard 55 gallon tanks are narrow. standard 75 gallon tanks are the same length, but wider making aquascaping your rock work easier. placing rocks in a 55 you easily make a rock wall.. not always the best look. creating islands, arches, pilars, and such is a better way of aquascaping IMO. i believe you already have the 55? is there any way you could sell it, or even use it as a DIY sump with a glass-holes overflow kit?

10% weekly, 20-25% bi weekly water changes. saltwater life is sensitive and you dont want to change to much, to fast or to often. you want your replacement water to be as identical to your tanks water as possible ( temp, salinity - which should be tested with a refractometer check ebay )
pre-mix your salt and RO/DI water atleast 24 hours in advance in a food safe tub, bucket, brute garbage can, or similiar.

a skimmer is an important piece of the puzzle. i wouldnt skimp on one of these, just as much as i wouldnt skimp on lighting for a reef tank. you wont need any other filtration besides maybe carbon/phosban reactors, a UV sterilizer wouldnt hurt a FOWLR tank either but not something needed as much as a quality skimmer. a filter sock may be one more option but NEEDS to be cleaned frequently!
this means, no canister filters, hang on filters ( unless running them empty for flow, or with carbon ) no bio balls, bio wheels, filter floss, filter sponges, and basically anything that can trap poop to allow it to break down. when uneaten food or poop breaks down it turns into unwanted nitrates and even phosphates which is going to cause unwanted algae growth. ( same as not using RO/DI water as nitrates, phosphates and other minerals would be present in the tap water )
not having enough flow in the display, or packing your refugium ( slow flowing area of the sump ) with live rock can create problems just like having freshwater type filters as they too will collect poop, debris and uneating food allowing it to break down into excess nutrients. the idea for saltwater is to keep things moving with flow and allow your skimmer to pick up things from the water. basically like seeing the yellow foam when waves crash on a beach, your skimmer whips the water to create foam into a collection cup.

given that, dont skip on a skimmer or flow ( hydors a cheap but good brand )
your going to need minimum liquid test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, alk, cal, mag, ph, a thermometer for temp, a refractometer for salinity and alk, cal and mag to dose if needed. i suggest a 2 part like b-ionic. this is crucial in a reef tank but IMO important for fish health as well.

a QT tank is highly recomended, this could be another use for this 55 gallon. this is where fish would go for observation for about 2 months. here you can observe eating habits, along with other behaviors. well observing a fish for health issues in a store before buying is important too. its always good to observe for obvious things like clamped fins, heavy breathing, quality of fins, and body ( torn, ripped, white spots, missing scales, ect ) laying on the sand bed, not swimming right, and so forth.
adding fish slowly is what works. by this i dont just mean drip acclimating them to their new enviroment, possibly even keeping the lights out on the tank for a day or two, but i mean by adding a fish, waiting a few weeks, to months to adding another. your tank needs to mature and overloading it will just create quick deaths for fish, and possibly an entire tank crash. it is very wise to plan the fish you want, make a list, edit it, pick an order in which the fish will be added ( fish def. have pecking orders and you wouldnt want to add a tang first, a better choice would be a goby or pair of clowns )
do yourself a favor and avoid damsels.

check your area for a local reefing club. its great to meet people with the same interest and maybe you can gather some needed items cheaper, however always research before buying.

that should help some, feel free to ask more questions.
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post #89 of 126 Old 01-05-2012, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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pair of clown fish, anenome, sea urchin, furry dwarf lion fish, and eventually a dragonet. Not sure what else. What would go good with this group?
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post #90 of 126 Old 01-05-2012, 10:21 AM
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the lion fish will eat the clowns, prob. even the dragonet, which can be tough fish to get to eat ( look into the ORA captive bred dragons if anything )
anemones need a reef enviroment, strong lighting, good alk, cal, mag levels..
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