Walstad/Beaslbob/NPT Questions - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 19 Old 12-09-2013, 03:56 PM
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Play sand is to fine of a substrate to put over dirt. It compacts and won't let the harmful gasses escape. If you want to use a sand, pool filter sand is what you should use. That's what I'll be using when I dirt my 75g.

10g - Red Cherry Shirmp
20g long - SE Asia "Biotope"
30g - Jasper's (GF) Tank
75g - South American "Biotope"
Plenty of empties...
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post #12 of 19 Old 12-09-2013, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Could feeders (rosy reds or goldies) be used effectively? I wouldn't be leaving in the fish used to start the tank. Mollies are $2 a piece here and that's a lot of money for fish that will be given away.

I'll respond to your pm now, I was cleaning. I am also curious about what you do in your salt tanks, my 10 gallon is cycling freshwater right now but will be going high-end brackish (1.010sg) then I will start converting to RO and once that is complete, adding a GSP. It's only going to be a grow-out, but I wonder if any of your methods can be used in brackish.
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post #13 of 19 Old 12-09-2013, 04:23 PM
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Could feeders (rosy reds or goldies) be used effectively? I wouldn't be leaving in the fish used to start the tank. Mollies are $2 a piece here and that's a lot of money for fish that will be given away.

I'll respond to your pm now, I was cleaning. I am also curious about what you do in your salt tanks, my 10 gallon is cycling freshwater right now but will be going high-end brackish (1.010sg) then I will start converting to RO and once that is complete, adding a GSP. It's only going to be a grow-out, but I wonder if any of your methods can be used in brackish.
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Yes you can use feeders. goldfish do attack the plants but in my experience that is a temporary thing.

I would not suggest mollies as they tend to do better in a brackish of full marine system.

I do basically the same general procedure for saltwater only not the peat moss in the substrate. Just sand. I also cultured micro algae (green water) and rotifers to help feed the corals. And used the diy 2 part to maintain calcium/alk/magnesium. and of course use macro algaes (in a refugium) instead of plants.

No experience actually in brackish. If plants can survive the salt then it should work nicely. Higher brackish levels would probably work with some macro algaes. But no real experience.

oh yea I did add some salt years ago to help a molly shake off a white fungus. But didn't actually measure the s. g. LOL

my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #14 of 19 Old 12-09-2013, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Plants won't survive in high-end brackish, I was just curious because the GSP going in will need full marine once he grows out of that tank.

How many 2" feeder goldies will I need to introduce to the 75?
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post #15 of 19 Old 12-09-2013, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe they could be kept in some nets so they don't eat the plants but still produce ammonia and I can release the solid waste from the nets into the gravel every other day or so.
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post #16 of 19 Old 12-09-2013, 05:04 PM
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Maybe they could be kept in some nets so they don't eat the plants but still produce ammonia and I can release the solid waste from the nets into the gravel every other day or so.
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could do that too. just drap so nets or plastic sindow screening to protect the plants.

I do think the fish eat pods and algae off the plants during that first week though.

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #17 of 19 Old 12-09-2013, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe a handful of ghost shrimp to keep algae down?
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post #18 of 19 Old 12-09-2013, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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I've got a while before I get the tank up and running. I need to get salt, a hydrometer, sand and rock for the 10 gallon and finish re-sealing the 75 not to mention get the lights, substrate and plants. I may end up using livebearers in the end, may not. Just looking over all of my options.
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post #19 of 19 Old 12-09-2013, 11:09 PM
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Why do people use so many layers if just sand can be used? I am looking for good growth with minimal care. I have heard horror stories about root tabs and I don't mind dosing liquid ferts here and there but I really don't want to fuss with the plants often.

I have never been above a 7.5 or below 7.0 as far as pH and am missing my tetras and such. I will be doing a community tank with a large spiny eel. I'm going to be using RO in my 10 gallon brackish but I do not want to lug 75 gallons worth of RO from the LFS to my house on a regular basis. Even 25 gallons for a PWC in the back of our ranger for an hour isn't worth it.

Is keeping the softer water fish possible again with a NPT? I don't understand how the pH can be off the charts yet you can keep neons.
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People have different opinions insofar as what is easier or less work is concerned. Also, the multiple layers are sometimes used for more than just plant growth. Some folks use various materials to mimic nature as closely as possible which can make filtration and artificial aeration unnecessary. You stated that your PH is 8.4 out of the tap. Mine is 8.6; however, my water is softer than yours...very low end of hard. I have successfully " housed " neons in this water; however, there is no doubt that they would be healthier and happier in an environment with the proper PH and hardness levels.

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