Those are better. First on the plants, they are Echinodorus (swords). The ones in the back are E. bleherae which is the most commonly available sword. The ones in the front on the left could be E. amazonicus which is nearly identical to E. bleherae but remains smaller and has narrower leaves. But I have had E. bleherae that resemble these and grew larger in time. If these remain small, they will be E. amazonicus.
As for the algae, I think you have a couple.
The "fuzz" stuff that will usually line the outer edge of the leaves as it has done on the leaf centre in the close-up photo is black beard algae; it is also on one edge of the leaf near the surface. When it is this thick on a leaf, the leaf should be removed; push it downward at the base (on the crown) and it will break off easily. I find that when sword leaves have brush algae they are dying anyway, and the base of the stem in my experience will always be brown (dead) so it comes away even more readily. I don't know if the algae causes the leaf to die or if the algae attaches to dying leaves, i.e., not sure which comes first. I have this in my 90g and 115g. I leave it when it is on wood, and only remove leaves when it is significant. Best way of controlling it is to ensure the light is not more than what the plants need in balance with the nutrients. Only once in 15 years have I had what I consider a fairly heavy infestation, and that was in 1997 or 1998. Last year I thought it might be increasing a bit in the 115g, so I knocked an hour off the light schedule, from 12 down to 11 hours daily; it stopped spreading and in fact dissipated a bit. I do not consider it troublesome in either tank now.
I also think there may be some cyanobacteria, the bright/dark green appearance on some of the sword leaves. If this is slimy and you can easily remove it with your finger, it is cyanobacteria. This is not a true algae, it is a bacteria, but it is commonly considered as a "algae" trouble. Organics cause it, plus light of course; but usually it appears if the organics in the tank are heavy, caused by too many fish, overfeeding, insufficient water changes, and again with plenty of light. I had this bad in my 70g last autumn. It is under control now, each week I see a strand or two, small, among the floating plants; I remove it. If this green is just the plant leaf, and that is possible with the light and angle of the photo, it is nothing.
I went back through this thread and see that you are not fertilizing presently, and this probably is the reason for the brush algae; the light is there but insufficient nutrients for the plants that will normally out-compete algae in a balanced system. The browning leaves you mention are another sign of insufficient nutrients. On the light, it is sufficient but maybe reduce the duration by an hour or two from 13 hours down to 11; using a lamp timer that you can buy in hardware stores is the best, as then you have consistency [you may already have one, fine].
As you have all swords, substrate ferts would work fine. However, in my experience, the swords will grow even larger, and given their present size it might be best to use a good liquid comprehensive that will provide what they need but not so much that they will grow out of control. Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium
is one I use now. I have had good luck previously with Kent's Freshwater Plant
; I have not tried the newer Kent line, Plant-Pro or Pro-Plant they call it, as these are individual nutrients and I do not advocate dosing individual nutrients, it is too difficult if not impossible for non-botanists to work out the proportion and more trouble can ensure. I've done that, been there, etc.
Another probably good fert is Nutrafin's Plant-Gro liquid. I have not myself tried this (intend to), but others report success and this company's substrate sticks under the same name certainly work. But again I would suggest the liquid in your situation.
Whichever you get, follow the directions as to quantity and frequency. Over-dosing ferts can cause other problems with plants and fish. Everything has to be balanced. If you can, I would get the Flourish, it is a very small dose (for a 10g it would be less than 1/4 of a teaspoon once or twice a week) so it will not be that expensive long-term. The small size bottle will last you several months with the one tank. The Plant-Gro I believe uses a lot more each dose so it may be more expensive by comparison.
Remove any yellowing or brown leaves; yellowing leaves on Echinodorus will never recover and trimming the outer leaves (these will mostly be outer leaves) also helps to limit growth, as will trimming the roots, but not that yet. Get yourself one of those ferts, reduce the light, and in 2 weeks you should see some changes. It is the new growth, which is always from the centre of the crown on Echinodorus, that is the key; even the now-green outer leaves may yellow, if so, remove them. Keep us posted.