Single T8 Bulb enough? - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 02-11-2013, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Single T8 Bulb enough?

I want to change my 26g-Bowfront over to a planted aquarium. Will the stock fixture with a single T8 bulb be enough with a 20" deep tank?? If it is, am I better off having the light by itself with no hood/cover and the glass for it to show through??

Tanks!!
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post #2 of 9 Old 02-11-2013, 10:02 AM
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by hood cover... do you mean the transparent partition that separates the light and the water?
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post #3 of 9 Old 02-11-2013, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, didn't know if the glass that is built into the hood would block any of the good light from the bulb.
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post #4 of 9 Old 02-11-2013, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Githianki View Post
I want to change my 26g-Bowfront over to a planted aquarium. Will the stock fixture with a single T8 bulb be enough with a 20" deep tank?? If it is, am I better off having the light by itself with no hood/cover and the glass for it to show through??

Tanks!!

It's question of how many watts. 1 watt/gallon is kinda a borderline. 2Watts/gallon good. And from what I hear 3 watts/gallon requires co2 addition (but I wouldn't know).


generally a single 1-8 tube the entire width of the tank is right at the 1watt /gallon. So I use 2 tubes as kinda a minimum. besides on 4' tanks 2 tube utility lights are only $10 or so.

On tanks less than 4' I once cut down a 4' tube and that worked nicely but that was not for a bow front. I also have used spiral twist tubes in round clip on type reflectors which would work nicely if they would fit in your hood. You can just position 3 or so until the light is distributed.

And I do like 6500K tubes

just my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #5 of 9 Old 02-11-2013, 12:28 PM
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The watts per gallon rule is not an appropriate way to plan your lighting. Par, depth of tank, and color temperature are the biggest factors. There is a pretty detailed write up along with graphs I read a while back. I'll see if I can find it for you.
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post #6 of 9 Old 02-11-2013, 03:00 PM
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Sorry, I found the article though it is in another community forum. It wouldn't be proper etiquette to link from here.


As far as the stock light goes, if it has a reflector and you upgrade the bulb to one in the right color temperature/spectrum, then it should be sufficient for low light plants. Regarding the cover, as long as it is clean and clear it should be fine as well.
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post #7 of 9 Old 02-11-2013, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Githianki View Post
I want to change my 26g-Bowfront over to a planted aquarium. Will the stock fixture with a single T8 bulb be enough with a 20" deep tank?? If it is, am I better off having the light by itself with no hood/cover and the glass for it to show through??

Tanks!!
Lighting intensity is crucial, but this varies according to the plant species. Is the tube you have 24 inches in length? I have a single T8 24-inch tube over my 29g basic tank and it is minimal for low and some moderate-light plants; this tank is 18 inches high. Photo below shows it. Only a better-quality tube will work though. I use Life-Glo. I have tried Daylight 6500K tubes but the plants slowly died due to insufficient light intensity. So this may work, for some plants, with a good tube.

The next step up would be a single-tube T5 fixture using a HO tube. Beyond that, a dual tube T8 fixture. I wouldn't go higher, or you will have too much light and a tank of algae.

The tubes in any of these must be adequate spectrum, and here the "daylight" with around 6500K work best. The Life-Glo is 6700K.

You must have a piece of glass (or similar clear product) between the water and the light fixture. Otherwise, the condensation will rust/corrode the fixture, and water splashed on the tube might crack it. Fish do jump, and splash. The glass should be cleaned every week during the water change. Continual condensation (during night) and drying (during light) will stain the glass. Cleaning it weekly will prevent this for the most part.

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Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #8 of 9 Old 02-12-2013, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info Byron. The tube in the fixture is only an 18" long one on my tank. Looking at your picture I should get a full length one. I haven't been able to find a dual tube fixture locally yet, but I have a few more places to check. So I would assume a dual tube T5 fixture will be a bit overkill then I take it?
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post #9 of 9 Old 02-12-2013, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Githianki View Post
Thanks for the info Byron. The tube in the fixture is only an 18" long one on my tank. Looking at your picture I should get a full length one. I haven't been able to find a dual tube fixture locally yet, but I have a few more places to check. So I would assume a dual tube T5 fixture will be a bit overkill then I take it?
T5 (which is not interchangeable with the "standard" T8 fluorescent) comes in NO (normal output) and HO (high output). The NO is basically the same as T8 would be, so a dual tube T8 would give about the same intensity as a dual tube T5. The T5 will be slightly more expensive. But T5 NO tubes are not always easy to find, depending where you live.

T5 HO is more intense than the NO or T8. One T5 HO is roughly equal to one and a half T8 or T5 NO tubes, i.e., about 1.5 times more light per tube. So two T5 HO gets you up to 3+ T8 tubes, and this is too much light by comparison. If the light intensity is beyond what balances the nutrients, plants can't use the light and algae will proliferate. Light should always be the "limiting factor" to plant growth; this way we can control things.

There is another option, that I have not tried, and that is LED. Not all LED will be sufficient for plants. And it is more expensive. I've no direct experience with LED so can't advise. I use T8 on my tanks.

I would agree that the 18-inch single T8 over your tank is not going to be sufficient. If you can find a single tube T5, I would go with that, using a HO tube with a kelvin around 6500K.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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