questions of light and nutrients - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 26 Old 03-06-2012, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again! He says that they fit into the socket just fine, technically, but the actual bulbs are too wide - the top of the tank is physically too close to the socket for the standard size to be possible. I've never seen thinner ones, but I have the regular sized ones (normal household use) around, so I'll try one of those in the morning if it's possible (not that I doubt my husband's word. heh). If not, I'll look into finding a slimmer version at the hardware store!

<--------- Ish happy again!
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post #12 of 26 Old 03-06-2012, 10:55 PM
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if it is the spiral tube itself and not the integrated ballast and if you can't find any spiral types that fit, there are these:

Zoo Med Ultra Sun Daylight Compact Fluorescent Bulb at PETCO
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post #13 of 26 Old 03-07-2012, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you! I'm glad I have some options. Hopefully one of them will do it! I have to get this fixed quickly, poor fish!
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post #14 of 26 Old 03-07-2012, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chesherca View Post
Thanks again! He says that they fit into the socket just fine, technically, but the actual bulbs are too wide - the top of the tank is physically too close to the socket for the standard size to be possible. I've never seen thinner ones, but I have the regular sized ones (normal household use) around, so I'll try one of those in the morning if it's possible (not that I doubt my husband's word. heh). If not, I'll look into finding a slimmer version at the hardware store!

<--------- Ish happy again!
Have you actually tried one of the GE daylight bulbs I suggested in the fixture? I have a standard 10g hood and they do fit. They almost touch (or may touch) the housing, but it makes no difference, these CFL bulbs produce very little heat. And they will be chepaer than any fish store alternative. The GE bulbs here are $7 for a pack of two; comparable fish store bulbs are about 4-5 times the cost.

I'm not going to belabour this, but I would try one first--even take the fixture to the store and try it.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #15 of 26 Old 03-07-2012, 12:11 PM
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I use those in my 10 gallon also, they touch the metal reflector, but it does not have any negative affect. The glass tube itself dosen't get very hot, the base gets far hotter but even so isn't THAT hot (and isn't touching anything).
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post #16 of 26 Old 03-07-2012, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!
I actually have had the lights in that tank off all day (dealing with a stressed-out frog who was in an accident) so I haven't messed with it so not to disturb the invalid resident. I have a pair of the standard sized bulbs of that type/size that I have around for my house lights - I'm going to try them on for size before buying anything, and go from there!

I got my Life-Glo 2 tube today and put it in the larger tank. WOW! Amazing difference - the light looks gorgeous! I can't wait to see how my plants are affected by it.

I also got my flourish, and a quick question about that for you all: Should I add it to fresh water when I do my water changes, or dump it directly into the tank? It's a 30 gallon, so I'll only need 2.5 ml, but the directions say 'once or twice a week' Should I just start with once weekly and go from there? It seems like a lot, but I don't know anything about it! The tank is planted, but not densely. There are 4 or 5 'bunches' of hornwort, 3 small java ferns, and one sprig of anacharis. . . and only two Mollies at the moment, as far as fish go.

Thanks!
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post #17 of 26 Old 03-07-2012, 07:20 PM
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Just do once weekly, and wait 24-48 hours after a water change. Most water conditioners bind to 'heavy metals' of which some of the nutrients in the fertilizer fall into that category. You would only need to do twice a week if you were on the high end of moderate lighting.

It won't harm the fish, just don't squirt it onto them ;)
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post #18 of 26 Old 03-07-2012, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Very good information to know, I never would have thought to wait so long AFTER a water change, and been confused as to why it wasn't helping! Thank you!
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post #19 of 26 Old 03-07-2012, 08:38 PM
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I agree. For ease, 2.5 ml is 1/2 teaspoon, so using one of those kitchen measure spoon sets, the half teaspoon one, kept for aquarium use only, is ideal. One 1/2 teaspoon the day following the water change and after 3-4 weeks see how the plants are responding. A second weekly dose 3 days after the first may be helpful if your source water is low in minerals (soft to very soft) and the fish load is low. Nutrients occur in tap water and fish foods, the latter being organics in the substrate (waste) broken down by bacteria.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #20 of 26 Old 03-08-2012, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again! Yes, my water is soft, and for now there are now only 2 fish (Mollies) in that tank. Not planning on any new additions for another month or two, so I'll give the plants a bit more after 3 days have past, and see what there is to see from there! I'm so glad to have found people who know things! I'd be lost without all of your help!
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