02-05-2010, 05:12 PM
| || |
Question on new setup:What do these plants need?
I'm about to get these plants:
1 bunch - Micranthemum Umbrosum
2 Stems - Sunset Hygro
2 Stems - Rotala Vietnam
2 Stems - Rotala Nanjenshan
2 Stems - Stargrass
2 Stems - Rotala Pink
2 stems - Potamogeton Gayi
2 plants dwarf sag
2 runners - Hydrocotyle verticillata
1 Stem - Didiplis diandra
Red Root Floater (?)
1 plant - Apon. Crispus
several java fern and java moss clumps. Currently, (with 2 10w full-spectrum cfls)the java moss is kind of stagnant now. (80% of it died within a week) and the java fern is doing what it should.
What setup do I need for these to reproduce enough that I have lots of surplus to share/sell/give away to friends on this site and on aquabid.
Also, a dense jungle feel is kind of what I'm going for in the shrimp/snail farm I'm planning :D
I want to quickly populate 2 10 gal livebearer tanks(yes, for fry protection) and 1 8 gal invert tank.
I have incandescent sockets, so I was thinking replacing my ten watt full spectrums with 2 15-18 watt 6500k CFLs(per tank)
I've built a homemade cO2 generator that I'd love to play with, but
what should I do?
And how should I do it?
02-09-2010, 07:21 PM
| || |
Originally Posted by Angel079
I'm sure others will chime in as well as their time allows it.
Meanwhile how may I help? I had hoped I helped with the previous post but apparently missed something; but I will glady walk you throught anything & everything you may need for a planted tank; after all my tanks & years under the belt I know a lot about planted set ups and am sure to be able to help ya
You did help, angel.
It's just that, like I mentioned, most of my java moss died, even though PH, hardness, temp, and everything were perfect, leading me to believe I have either-
not enough light or
not enough CO2.
I'm about to buy those plants I mentioned and I'd like them to survive.
I guess I want to be told that I'm doing something wrong so I'll have something to "fix"
(I normally have a green thumb, but I'm not sure about my aquatic thumb..)
02-09-2010, 07:48 PM
| || |
We tend toward the natural approach on this forum, not as a rule but most of our planted tank gurus are low-tech.
I'll chime in here, though.
When I first set up my 29 gallon, I had weeping willow hygro, the aponogeton bulb (you know which one!) and italian vallis. They grew like MAD. I had a 90 watt bulb over a 30 gallon tank and no ferts (but an enriched substrate). When I started adding more plants, the other plants' growth slowed, and lots of things started yellowing. Over time, the high-light/no-ferts method wasn't working for me really. So I consulted forum members about it. They suggested lower wattage lighting and using ferts. So I started dosing and I got a new lamp. The growth was way slower, but it was still there. Then I got algae problems, so I had to change around my ferts and CO2 (with the guidance of our plant gurus) and now the plants are good in that tank.
What I'm saying is, each week your tank and your plants will give you signs that you're doing the right or wrong thing. You can't force it unless you go the high-tech route. There are lots of forums out there with high-tech planted tanks, but that's a science I don't think I'll ever get into. I have to keep it simple or I get too overwhelmed.
But even the natural planted tank, slow and healthy, will produce amazing plants. I have lots of plants I have offered to trade and that's with my low-wattage, low-tech, slow-growing tank(s).
Hope that helped, you did want us to chime in right : )
02-09-2010, 07:50 PM
| || |
I'd def not think you have too much light there for the Java moss to thrive; if anything too much; I seen it not thriving to well in my larger higher wattage tanks; but it sure thrives like crazy in the dim lite Shrimp tanks.
How did you have yours planted?
All you really need for plants to thrive is a light that is a full spectrum, rated around 5-6500 Kelvin and for CFL's and power safer like them anything that equals less then 1wpg. Also check the lumens on the package;general tank plants require 300 and 6,000 lux.
As for the light matter you may be interested to read over this thread (mainly page 3) for further ideas for ya http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...att-55g-36847/
The CO2 I don't see being a issue in your set up; dep on your source water you may need add ferts thou; for any Stem plants that's liquid ferts such as offered by Flourish as comprehensive all in 1 fert or for Sword the root sticks (which aren't on your list).
02-09-2010, 09:07 PM
| || |
Originally Posted by stephanieleah
Well, one day a while back I was enamored with the rapid growth after just one day in my tank. I had forgotten to turn off the lights in my tank and they ran all night. That was with the high wattage bulb. All the plants were taller, had lots of new growth...after just one night! So I thought maybe I could do this every now and then to accelerate the process of growth. When I brought it up on the forum, you can imagine the response I got. In short: not good for plants, not good for fish, not good for long-term health of any of it. So patience is virtue.
I grow seedlings out indoors under CFLS for transplant outdoors and I usually leave it on 24 hrs.
I guess aquatic plants are different, and I know it would stress the fish, but terrestrial plants really don't need a dark cycle to grow vegetatively. (dark is required for most fruits and flowers though) I use that though- keeps my lettuce from going to flower, and can eat lettuce year-round that grows in my kitchen. :)
Back on topic: somehow I was thinking of co2 from yeast AS being natural and not high tech. I would consider MH lights and CO2 cannisters, regulators, and diffusers as high tech. It's just me.
So if I leave the lights the way they are, and just plant the tank properly, will the red coloring show up on the plants? I know that only happens when the light is bright...
Oh and stephanie- that apon was beautiful. I hope I can get something from it.
Last edited by redchigh; 02-09-2010 at 09:10 PM..
|| || |