Is it possible to prevent snail implementation when buying new plants? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 13 Old 03-20-2013, 11:31 AM
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I have no pond or ramshorn snails in any of my planted tanks. I do keep MTS and Nerites, but I put those there!

I don't use any chemical treatments on my plants. I give them a good rinse in tapwater, making sure to run my fingers over the leaves in search for slimy snail eggs *blegh* and then I keep them in fishless QT for at least 4-6 weeks before introducing them to my main tanks.

QTing my plants just as I do my fish gives me a chance to clean up any snails or hatchlings from eggs that I've missed, and also protects the fish in my tanks from picking up any possible pathogens that may have 'rode in' on new plants. . . I also like taking care of the acclimatisation process outside of my show tanks. :)
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post #12 of 13 Old 03-20-2013, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fish monger View Post
Think of dandelions in the rose garden or slugs on the hostas. It's not so much of a hate factor as much as it is that's not what you intended or wanted. I put up with snails aplenty because that's the way I am; however, at the the first sign of them eating plants, I'll be working on reducing the population.
This is not the best analogy to use , because snails in the aquarium do no damage whatever [assuming here the type of snails likely to be introduced via plants] but in fact perform a very beneficial function that nothing else does. Whereas slugs in my garden if left alone will mean no garden by late Spring. Dandelions are rather a lovely flower when you look at them closely.

I recall Rhonda Wilson in one of her columns in TFH writing that any product that will effectively kill snails or algae will almost certainly harm the plants and may kill them, depending. She, like others here, and certainly myself, welcome these useful helpers. Snails eat solid waste and dead organic matter, breaking it down faster so the bacteria can then deal with it more easily and rapidly too. And the plants benefit. And the type of snails we are here discussing do not eat healthy plants, only dead, dying or decaying leaves. But they do eat algae off the leaves, another plus.

As for loaches, some species are better than others for snail control. I never recommend a fish specifically for such issues as the fish frequently carry other possible problems (depending upon the tank) like needing a group (as all loach do), needing larger tanks (the Clown Loach needs a 6-foot tank), possibly being incompatible with certain upper or substrate fish, etc.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #13 of 13 Old 03-20-2013, 06:47 PM
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I bought a plant yesterday and when I saw it in the tank it had a snail on it, it looks like a snail that I didn't already have so I asked if they would leave it on... I got a strange look. It ended up just being a pond snail with a slightly odd shaped she'll and, even though they don't sell these, I was left with the impression that, because I indicated an interest in it perhaps I would have to pay for it... I did have to actually buy duckweed as it turned out so I guess I shouldn't be surprised.

Jeff.


Total years fish keeping experience: 7 months, can't start counting in years for a while yet.

The shotgun approach to a planted tank with an LED fixture

Small scale nitrogen cycle with a jar, water and fish food; no substrate, filter etc
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