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plants maintain but don't grow?

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plants maintain but don't grow?
Old 04-11-2012, 01:22 AM   #21
 
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Many methods for growing plant's in the aquarium, and it is /was ,confusing for me when I began to hear of so many way's other's were achieving the result's I wished for.
I then spoke to one of them through this medium (internet), and they suggested for me to choose one method ,and learn it well.
I then focused my attention's on they're advice and it became easier to then watch the plant's and observe,, without all of the opinion's runnin round my brain, and trying to incorporate bit's of several methods into my own effort's.
I chose Tom Barr's NON CO2 Method but it is just one method out of many to consider.
Would pick somebody /method,,and follow their advices.
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:43 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by 1077 View Post
Many methods for growing plant's in the aquarium, and it is /was ,confusing for me when I began to hear of so many way's other's were achieving the result's I wished for.
I then spoke to one of them through this medium (internet), and they suggested for me to choose one method ,and learn it well.
I then focused my attention's on they're advice and it became easier to then watch the plant's and observe,, without all of the opinion's runnin round my brain, and trying to incorporate bit's of several methods into my own effort's.
I chose Tom Barr's NON CO2 Method but it is just one method out of many to consider.
Would pick somebody /method,,and follow their advices.
This is very good advice. Pick one way and go with it.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:33 PM   #23
 
Another thought here. Ok, I'm going to stick with just comp once a week with a couple root tabs. A 20% w/c weekly. Now the thing here since I'm going a natural/low tech way I came across two final questions.
1. Should I stick with my two t8 lights
2. Should I increase my fish load a little to help produce more natural co2
If so on the increase, about how many more? Like what should be my in/g be? And do you count shrimp and snails in that?
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:11 AM   #24
 
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Another thought here. Ok, I'm going to stick with just comp once a week with a couple root tabs. A 20% w/c weekly. Now the thing here since I'm going a natural/low tech way I came across two final questions.
1. Should I stick with my two t8 lights
2. Should I increase my fish load a little to help produce more natural co2
If so on the increase, about how many more? Like what should be my in/g be? And do you count shrimp and snails in that?
On the light, can you remove one of the two tubes (don't know if these are two fixtures or one with dual tubes)? Balancing two with sufficient nutrients will be a bit harder, though there are some options around this.

On the fish, if you have the stock listed in post |#1, I would increase the two tetra from 5 to 7 or 8. Is the cherry barb remaining (you mention catching it)?

The inch per gallon is not reliable, there are many factors that figure into the tank's fish load. Avoiding stress is paramount to healthy fish, and there are variables. And BTW, CO2 occurs mainly from the breakdown of organics in the substrate, not fish and plant respiration, which is why we do not vacuum the substrate. It is a source of many nutrients not least of which is CO2.

Byron.
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:10 AM   #25
 
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On the light, can you remove one of the two tubes (don't know if these are two fixtures or one with dual tubes)? Balancing two with sufficient nutrients will be a bit harder, though there are some options around this.

On the fish, if you have the stock listed in post |#1, I would increase the two tetra from 5 to 7 or 8. Is the cherry barb remaining (you mention catching it)?

The inch per gallon is not reliable, there are many factors that figure into the tank's fish load. Avoiding stress is paramount to healthy fish, and there are variables. And BTW, CO2 occurs mainly from the breakdown of organics in the substrate, not fish and plant respiration, which is why we do not vacuum the substrate. It is a source of many nutrients not least of which is CO2.

Byron.
Lets say I keep two lights, what are the options for extra nutrients? And if I keep just one, I'm guessing the 6500K would be the one to keep?
Yes, every sunday when I do my w/c I try to catch the cherry barb, but he's a fast little guy that likes to hide behind my grasses.

On the added fish, I was thinking about getting two dwarf blue rams. They seem to be peaceful community fish. Would that work plus get 2 more neons?
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:30 AM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by arscott82 View Post
Lets say I keep two lights, what are the options for extra nutrients? And if I keep just one, I'm guessing the 6500K would be the one to keep?
Yes, every sunday when I do my w/c I try to catch the cherry barb, but he's a fast little guy that likes to hide behind my grasses.

On the added fish, I was thinking about getting two dwarf blue rams. They seem to be peaceful community fish. Would that work plus get 2 more neons?
No on the rams. They need warm water, above 80F. This will kill (slowly but eventually) the neons, glowlights and corys. There are few species of cory that can manage above 77-78F long-term. And neons and glowlights should not be above 77F. Check the profiles.

On catching the barb, the method is to use two hands, one with the net. Some people use two nets, one in each hand, but i prefer the second hand to be free. I first get the fish at one end of the tank, then I position the net close but along the front so I can see it and more easily control it against the front glass. Then with the other hand I move in behind the fish and slowly move toward it to drive it to the front and into the net. Doing this close to one end makes it less likely for the fish to evade the net. The free hand is more easily maneuvered among plants without uprooting them.

On the light, with both tubes, Flourish Comprehensive twice a week. Probably have to reduce the duration. Not sure what it is now, but you can go as low as six hours. The issue here is algae. Light drives photosynthesis, and provided all nutrients are available, plants will photosynthesize to the max--until the point at which something is no longer available. We call this the limiting factor. Light should always be the limiting factor; if not, algae takes advantage because when the plants can no longer "use" the light, algae will. It is not fussy. And it is a fact that thriving plants will prevent algae, for perhaps several reasons, but it does--provided the light does not continue past the point of minimum balance.

Last edited by Byron; 04-12-2012 at 11:32 AM..
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