Plants getting brown spots - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 18 Old 10-30-2012, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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The brown spots on the sword leaves are due to the accumulation of excess iron. In this instance, probably not because you are overdosing iron [the amount in Flourish is in proportion and not excessive], but because the hard minerals, especially calcium, is insufficient. [The GH of the tap water will confirm this.] Calcium is essential for cell structure in the leaves of aquatic plants, and it competes with heavy metals for assimilation. When calcium is lacking in the water, heavy metals such as iron are taken up by the plants in its place, resulting in an excess that is beyond the pants' capacity to store or process. The brown spots spread as more iron is taken up, until the leaf and eventually the entire plant is killed.

I had this very same issue and went ino this thoroughly. The calcium and other hard minerals as they are called are not in sufficient quantity in any of the standard liquid or substrate fertilizers, because these products are made with the assumption that most of us will have sufficient hard minerals in our water. I will go into this further when I have the GH number. It is always possble that something else is involved, though here I doubt it.

Byron.
Looked it up online says hardness is 18. I hope I'm giving you the right info.
http://www.nyc.gov/html/dep/html/drinking_water/wsstate.shtml
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post #12 of 18 Old 10-30-2012, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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post #13 of 18 Old 10-30-2012, 08:36 PM
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Looked it up online says hardness is 18. I hope I'm giving you the right info.
Drinking Water Supply and Quality Report
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I assume that is 18 ppm, or 18 mg/l. Which means very soft, about 1dGH. My tap water is a tad softer yet, about half of 1 dGH. What is the pH in the tank? And tap water pH? Shake the tap water in a jar briskly for several moments to outgas any CO2 before testing.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #14 of 18 Old 10-30-2012, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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I assume that is 18 ppm, or 18 mg/l. Which means very soft, about 1dGH. My tap water is a tad softer yet, about half of 1 dGH. What is the pH in the tank? And tap water pH? Shake the tap water in a jar briskly for several moments to outgas any CO2 before testing.
The ph is usually at 6.8 or 7. Today it was about 6.4 I'm guessing because of the hurricane. But it's always very close to 7
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post #15 of 18 Old 10-31-2012, 11:53 AM
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The ph is usually at 6.8 or 7. Today it was about 6.4 I'm guessing because of the hurricane. But it's always very close to 7
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The pH is fine and consistant with the GH. So to the initial problem, I would get a hard mineral supplement. I use Seachem's Equilibrium. There is also their new AquaVitro line only available in select stores. And Brightwell Aquatics' make a similar product, called Florin Delta GH+, here's a link:
Brightwell Aquatics - Florin Delta GH+

You don't need much, the GH should be raised to 4 or 5 dGH, and whichever product will tell you how to achieve this. This will provide the needed calcium, magnesium and such at levels beyond what is in the liquid supplements.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #16 of 18 Old 10-31-2012, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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The pH is fine and consistant with the GH. So to the initial problem, I would get a hard mineral supplement. I use Seachem's Equilibrium. There is also their new AquaVitro line only available in select stores. And Brightwell Aquatics' make a similar product, called Florin Delta GH+, here's a link:
Brightwell Aquatics - Florin Delta GH+

You don't need much, the GH should be raised to 4 or 5 dGH, and whichever product will tell you how to achieve this. This will provide the needed calcium, magnesium and such at levels beyond what is in the liquid supplements.

Byron.
I'm thinking of making a small Co2 kit for my tank. It's 50 gallons could I use both?
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post #17 of 18 Old 10-31-2012, 06:53 PM
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I'm thinking of making a small Co2 kit for my tank. It's 50 gallons could I use both?
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This is not going to help with the present problem, just so you know. And if you do add CO2, then the light may have to be increased [forgotten what it now is] and other nutrients increased to balance.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #18 of 18 Old 10-31-2012, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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This is not going to help with the present problem, just so you know. And if you do add CO2, then the light may have to be increased [forgotten what it now is] and other nutrients increased to balance.
Cool thanks. I ordered that product online since the hurricane knocked out a lot of places around here in nyc
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