Planted Aquarium... - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 14 Old 07-25-2010, 10:48 PM
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Inga (I think) means not together, and I agree, not in a 20g. That Bolivian Ram profile mentions one ram in a 20g, and that is fine. They can be included with gourami in a larger tank, but a 20g is simply too small for both. Their personalities are in many ways similar, as are their behaviours.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #12 of 14 Old 07-25-2010, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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OH! Okay. Sorry for the confusion.

Byron.. What are signs to look for in an "established" tank? Algae or something other than that?
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post #13 of 14 Old 07-26-2010, 12:03 AM
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I'm not sure there's is any kind of obvious sign when a tank is 'established'.

If it were me, I would just give it about 2-3 months minimum, and if all the plants are doing well, and the foreground plants are spreading, then give it a shot with a fish or two, and if they're still alive and healthy in a week then add the rest of the school.

I'm selling some fast-growing plants in the classifieds forum atm, and may I say that's another side bonus of fast growing plants.
You occasionally get enough to sell. :)

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post #14 of 14 Old 07-26-2010, 03:55 PM
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I agree 2-3 months usually does it. Once the tank is cycled (and again with plants this is immediate) and you have the fish you want (other than any "sensitive" types), after a few weeks you should see the pH and nitrates stable. The pH is a good indicator, it will naturally lower unless the water has sufficient carbonates (hardness) to prevent this. But as long as the pH and nitrates are not up and down during a week (except as mentioned below) and from week to week, things should be stable.

Always test pH the same time each day, as there is a diurnal fluctuation that is natural in planted tanks. The pH will be lowest in the early morning (before tank lights are on) and highest in the evening when lights go out. So testing the same time each day will be a more accurate indication of day to day or week to week. And always test before a water change, not after, for both pH and nitrates.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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