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Plant light & food Advice needed

This is a discussion on Plant light & food Advice needed within the Beginner Planted Aquarium forums, part of the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium category; --> Originally Posted by TitanTDH Hey mate and welcome to the forum. Glad to see more Aussies are joining. What water test kit are you ...

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Plant light & food Advice needed
Old 01-22-2013, 10:28 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by TitanTDH View Post
Hey mate and welcome to the forum. Glad to see more Aussies are joining. What water test kit are you using? I ask as im using an API test for Ph and reading roughly 7.2. Tested at the LFS using the Sera test kit it was reading 6.5. I wouldnt add the Ph down as it is only a temporary fix and will return to normal values in a few days. The driftwood and plants will bring your Ph down naturally. Do you test the Ph at the same time each day? I ask as the Ph will fluctuate during the day/night as photosynthesis is occuring.
I am using the Seachem Flourish comprehensive and well and my plants are exploding. Have three giant hygraphilias that are growing close to 1 cm a day. Two of these are daughter plants that i planted from the original stem.

Cheers
TitanTDH
Hi mate,

Thank you for the welcome - i've found this forum excellent for advice and before long i may even feel confident enough to start giving out some advice. I've lean't an awful lot on the way and sadly i've learnt the hard way with my old tank which was a 10 GAL (US GAL) and sadly I lost 4 fish.
I do use an API kit yes - I bought the pH, Ammonia, Nitrate & Nitrite kit and before I put the Angels in it was always testing at about pH 7.6 when the Sydney water we have is expected to generally be pH 7.8. The Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate levels were reading very little (almost none) most of the time and i did wonder if due to the low load on the tank (with 6 which then reduced to 4 Tetra's and 2 little cory's) meant that the nitrogen cycle didn't really get going particularly well even though i had it set up for a month before introducing any fish.

I generally test in the evenings or late afternoons after work (say between 4:30pm and 6pm each day)

I'm still looking for a suitable light for my tank - not sure whether to get a single/double T5 or a double T8

I will take out my bubbler when I do get the light for definite.

Thanks mate
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:32 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by aokashi View Post
OMG another sydney sider! I'm originally from sydney, and is visiting family at the moment.
From experience, plants do not need much fertilization if you don't have high light (less than 40 PAR). I set up a tank for my uncle 6 months back (ended up with 40 endlers from the original 6 frys, but that's another story), It's a dirt tank with fast growing stems. after 2 months he decided to "save electiricity" and shut off filtration, light and heater ( he's also never done a water change, to save water :/). the tanks gets a little sunlight everyday on it's right side, surprisingly the plants are doing pretty well. To raise hardness, i usually drop a seashell or two in the tank (washed) it slowly ups the hardness and promotes ph stability in the tank.

you plant that *should* require the most light is hairgrass, which I have in the 10 gal, and is surviving (not really growing). Hairgrass generally doesn't need much light.

On another note, does anyone of you sydney people want some free endler guppy hybrids >.>?
Hi mate, hows it going?

Thanks very much for the post - the light situation i'm looking to fix as i don't currently have one (this thread was copied and put into the aquarium set-up section of this forum as well I believe)

I'm not sure if I should get a single/double T5 or a double T8 for my tank.

The plants though I just want to keep healthy as I have not done well with them at all since I started - the poor things!
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:43 PM   #13
 
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H Byron,

I meant to say Stress Coat rather than Stress Zyme - I do usually add Stress Zyme once a week as I was informed that it contained the good bacteria that a tank needs... if there's no benefit from it then i'll just stop using it.

Stress Coat however I do usually when i change water...

I just need some advice now on the light situation as that's the last piece of the puzzle.

But overall i'm really grateful for all the advice

It basically looks like i'll be removing the bubbler when I get a light, stop using Stress Zyme, make sure I get the right water conditioner and then just let things run for a while so it can stabilise. (that about right)

Thanks again all
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:21 PM   #14
 
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Hey mate. By the sounds of it keeping the plants healthy I would suggest the twin t8. Will give a low to medium light rating for the tank. T5 Fixtures put out more intense light and without CO2 and more plants might cause algae in a very short while. Now I am no expert as I'm building a tank (search diamond in the rough). And byrons stickies on planted tanks are full of info with balancing light, nutrients.
Also there are plant profiles in the fish profiles up the top left. You may be able to get some further advice on your plants and required water parameters and ferts
Goodluck.
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Old 01-23-2013, 01:29 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by TitanTDH View Post
Hey mate. By the sounds of it keeping the plants healthy I would suggest the twin t8. Will give a low to medium light rating for the tank. T5 Fixtures put out more intense light and without CO2 and more plants might cause algae in a very short while. Now I am no expert as I'm building a tank (search diamond in the rough). And byrons stickies on planted tanks are full of info with balancing light, nutrients.
Also there are plant profiles in the fish profiles up the top left. You may be able to get some further advice on your plants and required water parameters and ferts
Goodluck.
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I agree. Dual T8, though a single tube T5 will work, but not a dual T5. Another option is LED, there are good units but I have no experience with these, yet.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:15 PM   #16
 
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I agree. Dual T8, though a single tube T5 will work, but not a dual T5. Another option is LED, there are good units but I have no experience with these, yet.
Hi Byron,

Thank you so much for your advice - I printed off your 4 part guide last night and plan on reading them over the weekend.

Just in the meantime could you cast your professional opinion on this for me?
Aqua Nova Aluminium T8 Aquarium Light NDL-900 - The Aquarium Shop Australia

It includes a couple of 2 Ft 20 tubes - if you could let me know whether this will be any good

The above is basically the 3 Ft version of this (which is the 2 ft version but at least it has a photo that you can see)
Aqua Nova Aluminium T8 Aquarium Light NDL-600 - The Aquarium Shop Australia

Thanks very much guys!
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:25 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by beano129 View Post
Just in the meantime could you cast your professional opinion on this for me?
Aqua Nova Aluminium T8 Aquarium Light NDL-900 - The Aquarium Shop Australia

It includes a couple of 2 Ft 20 tubes - if you could let me know whether this will be any good

The above is basically the 3 Ft version of this (which is the 2 ft version but at least it has a photo that you can see)
Aqua Nova Aluminium T8 Aquarium Light NDL-600 - The Aquarium Shop Australia

Thanks very much guys!
This might suffice, but were it me I would go for something more. I have a 30w 30-inch T8 tube over my 3-foot 33g tank, and it is the absolute minimum but only with a good tube. I know the limitations this light is causing, and am working toward something new. The linked fixture has two T8 tubes but they are only 24-inch which is 20w for a total of 40w and that is not much above what I now have [just so I can compare myslef]. I know watts is not the best guide for light, but when one is comparing apples to apples as here, it is. If you could get a fixture that takes two 30-inch T8 tubes, you would be much better. The increased options for plants would make a big difference, but at the same time the light is stillnot too bright that some floating plants won't work well.
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