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Plant ID, filtration, O2

This is a discussion on Plant ID, filtration, O2 within the Beginner Planted Aquarium forums, part of the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium category; --> Yeah....feeling really dumb. Realized that it was too far the blue direction after posting. Bulb is still in box, gonna have to exchange it....

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Plant ID, filtration, O2
Old 10-22-2011, 05:25 PM   #11
 
Yeah....feeling really dumb.
Realized that it was too far the blue direction after posting. Bulb is still in box, gonna have to exchange it.
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:25 PM   #12
 
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Yes, I would take it back. They should credit you, it hasn't been used. I would not keep it, the intensity is insufficient. I have a 48-inch one that I bought to "try" and it is standing in the corner of my fish room, having been put in and used for about one hour before it came out. I couldn't return it, as I had bought it for about 1/3 the normal cost from a store that was closing and sales were final.

Your ZooMed UltraSun will be much better.
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:05 PM   #13
 
Took the bulb back today. Figured out why I made the error. Again.
They didn't have the Life Glo in stock. So, went elsewhere and got one.
Now have Hagen Life Glo bulb, added some Flourish. Hoping all are happy soon.

Gonna keep working on the husband now to let me get the 55 gallon I am eyeballing...stubborn boys.
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Old 11-02-2011, 04:23 PM   #14
 
Ok. New problem. The red-brown algae is WORSE now that I have a good light. Plants don't seem to be doing too much better yet, but my parameters are better. My ammonia is at 0-0.25ppm, nitrites zero, nitrates at ~5ppm. I am guessing that perhaps the phosphate is the problem. Just tested that- reading at 1ppm. Also tested my tap water, which is closer to 2ppm. Also note that my water is pretty hard both GH and KH parameters.
Given this, water change is not likely to do much for phosphate levels.
So, is there any water conditioner that reduces phosphates (and maybe even would soften water...) or do I have to buy special water for water changes?
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Old 11-02-2011, 04:33 PM   #15
 
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I know very little if anything about phosphates in aquarium water other then I think it can cause problems with algae. There are products out there that I have heard people using this one Liquid phosphate removers for clean, clear pond water: PondCare Phos-Out by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. There are others as well. You need to ask some one more experienced in this matter just wanted to let you know there is stuff out there.

As for softening the water hardness. Read this thread by Byron http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...quarium-73276/
Hope this helps some.
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:31 PM   #16
 
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Most of us have a natural tendency to "do something" when we perceive a problem. Often this is very unwise. Jumping into "cures" when the tank is obviously still in a state of flux, i.e., not yet settled biologically, usually makes it worse.

Phosphorus is a vital plant nutrient, but one that is required in low amounts and there is always sufficient in the aquarium. It arrives in fish foods as phosphates. And in this present case, apparently in the source water (tap water) too. Diana Walstad writes that in her aquaria, phosphate levels are between 1 and 5 mg/liter, more than sufficient for algae. Even an aquarium with phosphate at 0.15 mg/l will have more than enough for algae.

Although algae is always more adept than plants at using light and nutrients, it is a fact that ponds, aquaria and lakes with dense plant growth often have little algae. And this brings me back to the balance. Increase the plants, limit the light, and allow the aquarium to stabilize biologically. If Diana can have algae-free aquaria with phosphates as high as 5 mg/l, you should be able to have the same with 1 mg/l.

How long is the light on daily? And how often do you dose with Flourish, and presumably it is the maximum recommended on the label? And what plant species have you?

Byron.
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Old 11-03-2011, 04:45 PM   #17
 
In other words, patience, Padawan.

I have light on a timer for 10 hours per day.
Plants species include Aponogeton, Anubius, Red Java, Hornwort, Brazilian Pennywort, Bacopa, Lotus sp. Taiwan, Moss balls, Water Sprite.
For livestock, 6 tetras, 2 angels, 1 cory.

Using Flourish per label, once per week. Has gotten two treatments so far.

Have been using a siphon gravel vac at weekly water changes. Since Corys are schooling fish, been thinking to get 2 more, which should help with food debris on the bottom, and maybe cut down on gravel vaccuming? Also trying to sprout more Aponogeton bulbs to increase plants. Want to get a banana plant or two, and water nymph. Though I hesitate to add much in the line of floating plant as I don't want to block light too much.
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Old 11-03-2011, 05:21 PM   #18
 
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I would reduce the light duration. I have had to take mine down to 8 hours per day and solely to combat brush algae. I usually do this by cutting back one hour at a time and observing for 2-3 weeks. If the algae stops increasing, fine; if it continues to increase, reduce another hour. The existing algae will not go away unless you remove it manually.

I no longer clean the substrate. The organics work their way down into it, then bacteria (aided by Malaysian livebearing snails) break down the organics into nutrients. This process is actually very important in any aquarium, and is explained a bit more in my article on bacteria.
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...quarium-74891/

Byron.
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