Never done live plants before - Page 10 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #91 of 96 Old 02-27-2011, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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The Sagittariaq will spread over the substrate just like pygmy chain sword, they are near-identical, so that is covered. H. zosterfolia is a stem plant, thus fast growing; regular pruning/trimming will keep it tidy. It would suit that space, provided it gets sufficient light; but as lower leaves often die off on stem plants, being behind the swood will benefit that.

Leave the crypts, they will recover.
Do you believe the amount of plants I ordered is sufficient and the variety? I almost feel I didn't order enough of the Sagittaria and L. Mauritiana. I don't know 100% what they will be like when they arrive.

The Sagittaria Subulata (Dwarf) and Lilaeopsis Mauritiana will be able to spread the low level of the tank. I have the Anubias Nana on the front wood, Microsorium Pteropus on the back right wood. Java moss will be on the large piece of wood.I assume I am going to have to plant the H. zosterfolia behind the large piece of wood next to the back of the tank. The Echinodorus bleherae will be in the back left. As for the Crypts I currently have I almost feel I don't know where they should be planted.

But now I'm in the process of applying slate to the bottom of the driftwood and allowing it to be cured so it will be able to stay sunk, then will apply the Java Moss to it.
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post #92 of 96 Old 02-27-2011, 04:15 PM
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Do you believe the amount of plants I ordered is sufficient and the variety? I almost feel I didn't order enough of the Sagittaria and L. Mauritiana. I don't know 100% what they will be like when they arrive.

The Sagittaria Subulata (Dwarf) and Lilaeopsis Mauritiana will be able to spread the low level of the tank. I have the Anubias Nana on the front wood, Microsorium Pteropus on the back right wood. Java moss will be on the large piece of wood.I assume I am going to have to plant the H. zosterfolia behind the large piece of wood next to the back of the tank. The Echinodorus bleherae will be in the back left. As for the Crypts I currently have I almost feel I don't know where they should be planted.

But now I'm in the process of applying slate to the bottom of the driftwood and allowing it to be cured so it will be able to stay sunk, then will apply the Java Moss to it.
The Sagittaria will send out runners and daughter plants will spring up, once it is settled. The stem plants grow fast and can easily be divided. It will look a bit thin at first, but your tank will be overrun in a few months.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #93 of 96 Old 03-02-2011, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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A little update.

Haven't received my order for plants yet which I am really getting aggravated about. Though the good news is my tank is fully cycled. I ended up throwing away the crypts because they ended up losing all their roots with all the re-plantings and moving around to find the right driftwood placement. The large driftwood will still not sink so I'm in the process of dealing with that.

I ended up picking up a Echinodorus bleherae at the LFS. It looks pretty healthy at the moment. I believe one of the leaves of damaged on the ride back as you can probably see in the picture, so I am going to remove that. Should I keep the Echinodorus bleherae in the pot until the other plants arrive to keep the roots intact or doesn't it matter to much?


Also I was wondering what would be the best way to attach the Java Fern to driftwood? I string thin fishing around the wood to attach the Java Moss, but I can't think of a good way of doing that with the Java Fern. Would you wrap the fishing line around the bottom of the stem then do one loop to the back of the wood and tie a knot?

Thanks
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post #94 of 96 Old 03-03-2011, 10:50 AM
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A little update.

Haven't received my order for plants yet which I am really getting aggravated about. Though the good news is my tank is fully cycled. I ended up throwing away the crypts because they ended up losing all their roots with all the re-plantings and moving around to find the right driftwood placement. The large driftwood will still not sink so I'm in the process of dealing with that.

I ended up picking up a Echinodorus bleherae at the LFS. It looks pretty healthy at the moment. I believe one of the leaves of damaged on the ride back as you can probably see in the picture, so I am going to remove that. Should I keep the Echinodorus bleherae in the pot until the other plants arrive to keep the roots intact or doesn't it matter to much?


Also I was wondering what would be the best way to attach the Java Fern to driftwood? I string thin fishing around the wood to attach the Java Moss, but I can't think of a good way of doing that with the Java Fern. Would you wrap the fishing line around the bottom of the stem then do one loop to the back of the wood and tie a knot?

Thanks
The sword can stay in the pot. I have kept plants potted for months when I have come across something rare that I wanted and was waiting to re-aquascape a tank or something. As long as it is sitting on the substrate, getting light and nutrients. Roots may grow out into the substrate, that's fine. Swords move around fairly easily, though I would not transplant them every day. When the other plants arrive, you may have a different place in mind for the sword.

I usually wedge the rhizome (carefully, as it will break) in a crevice in wood, but thread or fishingline can be used; one strand just to hold the plant to the wood if sufficient; hair roots will attach it in a few weeks.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #95 of 96 Old 03-04-2011, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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I usually wedge the rhizome (carefully, as it will break) in a crevice in wood, but thread or fishingline can be used; one strand just to hold the plant to the wood if sufficient; hair roots will attach it in a few weeks.
Thanks! I will definitely have to be carefully attempting to place the Java Ferns.

Also here is my tank as of today. I just added the Java Moss and on the trunk area it doesn't look all that appealing or the back. (You can see the fishing line )


  • I was figuring I would be planting only 1 Stargrass behind the left log and to the right of the Amazon Sword.
  • A Crypto Wendetti green in the front left, behind the tall wood.
  • Lilaeopsis Mauritiana will probably be planted in the front of the left log to the Anubias Nana? (I've heard they grow tall in low light tanks, so I'm unsure about placing them there.)
  • Java Fern on back right wood.
  • Dwarf Sags filling in the rest.
Would there be a good plant to place behind the far back right piece of wood? There will be Java Ferns on it so it will probably cover it up?
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post #96 of 96 Old 03-05-2011, 11:06 AM
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I think i mentioned previously that one has to see the plants in place. Now that I have, I would change that large bit of wood. The sword behind it is not going to do well, I speak from experience as I lost a sword much the same way.

I would just shift the wood clockwise so the standing bit is in the rear corner, with the sword to the right behind the arm of the wood laying on the substrate.

I would put Java Fern on the wood in the right corner, as this is a good plant fro rear corners than tend to be darker. It grows tallish, requires low light, and is sturdy enough not to be affected by filter currents.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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