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My Cabomba is dying!

This is a discussion on My Cabomba is dying! within the Beginner Planted Aquarium forums, part of the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium category; --> Do you know the wattage of the bulb? I personally think that 51000k is okay for the color spectrum. I have always heard 5000-7000k ...

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Old 05-18-2013, 01:40 AM   #11
 
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Do you know the wattage of the bulb? I personally think that 51000k is okay for the color spectrum. I have always heard 5000-7000k is okay. 6500k is the closest to natural daylight which plants do best at though.

As Jen has said Cabomba can be a picky plant and most stems tend to need brighter lights and good fertilizers.

One question that I am curious about. The filter water you are using is it from your filter the one that's using a carbon filter??
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Old 05-18-2013, 01:44 AM   #12
 
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Ya know what? The few stems of thriving cabomba I have are directly under the float saliva, duckweed, frogbit and asain water grass floating masses. They're bright green and growing quite a bit. But then again, I have 6500k bulbs.
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:57 AM   #13
 
Yeah so I've been brushing up on my knowledge of lighting & am thinking the wattage or light intensity is low and has probably been getting worse the longer I've been using the bulb. It's a 10 watt bulb which correlates to 2 watts per gallon. That's on the low side according to this site which recommends 2-5 watts per gallon:
Aquarium Lighting: Frequently Asked Questions Regarding Aquarium Lighting
As far as spectrum goes one of the moderators I believe of TFK here recommends 6500/6700k as the main light source but also adding a cool blue 8000k. (Sorry didn't save the link)
My hood light can only be 15 watt max & i haven't seen any bulbs with that wattage so maybe I'll have to figure out how to add another fixture or give up on cabomba if the ferts alone don't work!
Yeah the tap water is carbon filtered. My tank filter isn't using carbon just built up biological filtration on the filter medium.
Thank you everyone for your replies. I really would like to keep the cabomba!
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Last edited by Corinne245; 05-18-2013 at 03:04 AM..
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Old 05-18-2013, 01:48 PM   #14
 
Oh here's the link I was talking about:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...s-blues-56589/

Thanks for everyone's input - I'm going to switch to Seachem Flourish and a 6500k cfl to start. Unfortunately it also will only be 10 watts. The tank is only 10" deep to the gravel so light penetration may not be an issue but I'll see.

Thanks for the input on balancing ph Jen - that's been a big headache! I will look into that as well.
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:33 AM   #15
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If the tank is only 10" I would think that the wattage will be fine.

Jeff.
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Old 05-20-2013, 07:31 PM   #16
 
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Yeah, That's probably high light. I had a 28 gallon with 3 13 watt CFLs and had slight algae problems.. I was definitely in the mid range of light, and that was on a tank that was 18" tall. This is a short tank, cfls are quite intense.

Are the cabomba spread out? They can choke eachother out if you plant them too closely. The stems should be spaced about an inch apart.

The watts per gallon rule is getting to be like the inch per gallon rule, it's not reliable. This was used when everyone was using the tame t8 (t12?) light bulbs.. now there are high efficiency bulbs, high output, led, halide.. all sorts of different bulbs that use different amounts of energy to produce different amounts of light.

1 CFL will do for that small of a tank.
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:53 AM   #17
 
The cabomba were planted in a bunch and now there is one! It's still hanging on and the stem has even divided. :).
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Originally Posted by jennesque View Post
The watts per gallon rule is getting to be like the inch per gallon rule, it's not reliable. This was used when everyone was using the tame t8 (t12?) light bulbs.. now there are high efficiency bulbs, high output, led, halide.. all sorts of different bulbs that use different amounts of energy to produce different amounts of light.
I definately see what you're saying. The efficacy of cfls or lumens per watt can really only be outdone by LEDs right now. Ha, I used the inch per gallon rule! In all honesty I still think it's not a bad rule for beginner aquarists to prevent a massive die out right off the bat, but it would be a digression for an experienced aquarist to put full heart into it. I understand there are probably more efficient filtration systems and such than what was used when the rule was created. There are a lot of variables that go into balancing an ecosystem!
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:38 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by Corinne245 View Post
In all honesty I still think it's not a bad rule for beginner aquarists to prevent a massive die out right off the bat, but it would be a digression for an experienced aquarist to put full heart into it.
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Ha, I meant "regression"...but now I digress.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:28 AM   #19
 
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Having read through this thread, I'll pick up on a couple of points.

First is the pH, and this is not an issue. One problem with our old plant profiles [we are moving the profiles to the new Reference Area, and I am revising them as I do] is the "Care Level" section near the top. This was devised to provide general information on light, temperature, etc. within the 3 categories of Easy, Moderate, Difficult (or whatever). Unfortunately, trying to give general data that fits a broad range of plants can cause more trouble than help, and this section turned out to be like this, so it is gone from the new profiles. If you look under "Water parameters" it says "acidic to slightly basic" without a pH number. You will not have a problem with most plants, including Cabomba, over pH.

On the liquid fertilizer, I agree with those who have recommended a broader, comprehensive product. Flourish Comprehensive Supplement is what I and many others here use, but another equal is Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti. I think this was the one that Boredomb was trying to think of. Either of these will help all plants, as they are complete and nutrients are in proportion according to aquatic plants' requirements.

On the temperature, 80F is high and while Cabomba might manage if this were the only issue, it also might not. Temperature has a considerable effect on plants, as on fish, the higher it goes. Temporary heat waves are normally not an issue, most of us face these in summer; but a continually high temperature does wear plants and fish out [when it is higher than their preference], and it might have been a contributor here.

That brings us to light, and this is the issue. I tried Cabomba in my 10g with two 10w CFL Daylight 6500K bulbs, and it too was fine for 5-6 weeks, then it began to fall apart until there were completely bare stems. This is a high-light plant. It is better to select another species that will manage. Finding one with the delicate ferny appearance of Cabomba is not easy as all of these require more light by their very nature. But as someone mentioned, plants often will manage in one tank but not another, even with very similar lighting, so you can experiment a bit and you might find one that works. Or you might not. One stem plant that does do well in moderate light is Brazilian Pennywort, though it looks nothing like Cabomba.

The issue of watts per gallon has been well covered, so I've nothing to add there.

Byron.

Last edited by Byron; 05-24-2013 at 10:32 AM..
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:59 PM   #20
 
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Thank you Byron I can't ever seem to remember the name Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti. As that line isn't available near me.
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