Italian Val, Green Cabomba, and Ludwigia Repens Questions - Page 7 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #61 of 75 Old 09-09-2010, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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Mine seem to absolutely love to be on my driftwood... Maybe they eat algae? (though I don't see any on it)
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post #62 of 75 Old 09-09-2010, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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Also, currently I'm trying to find out what they eat, how they breed, etc., so I put three about 3/4-1cm (the only ones who are not living inside the driftwood (I think)) in a 1 gallon with an airstone. Should I add a plant for filteration? If so, which one?

And it looks live Flourish has calcium in it... Should I add some?

Last edited by TFish; 09-09-2010 at 07:02 AM.
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post #63 of 75 Old 09-09-2010, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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I think they're pond snails because of their shell (it is football-shaped and has barley noticable yellow spots), which eat plants right?
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post #64 of 75 Old 09-09-2010, 01:54 PM
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Responding to last three posts.

The small snails regularly seen in our tanks, that usually arrive with plants or sometimes wood, do not eat healthy plants. They will eat dying plant matter, any decaying fish or fish food, algae (to some extent, don't expect a few snails to keep your tank free of algae, but they will eat it), fish waste. And Malaysian livebearing snails are excellent because they burrow through the substrate--which with sand is a real bonus--keeping it aerated and healthy.

The Malaysian livebearer snail, as the name implies, bears live young (and without male/female copulation, each snail apparently is "female" and just produces offspring). All other small snails lay eggs; you will often see tiny clusters of gelatin-like patches on leaves or the tank wall, those are snail eggs. I would leave the snails in the fish tank, they will reproduce fine in there, everything they need is at hand. Plus they do all that cleaning work for you.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #65 of 75 Old 09-09-2010, 03:33 PM
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I have absolutely nothing to add, except that MTS are like earthworms in their mating habits too. All MTS are male and female... They do have to reproduce, but they can store 'genetic material' from one mating...

At least from what I read. I could be wrong.

You can buy a manual timer for about $8.... put the lights on a 12/12 schedule...

I also agree with byrons comments on how your tank doesn't have any "depth". Looking at a photo, your aquarium looks about 6" from front to back.

Looks nice though. May I reccoment for the foreground Echinodorus Tenellus?
(Livebearers are common in flooded plains of central america, so grass-like plants work well.)

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post #66 of 75 Old 09-09-2010, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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I have absolutely nothing to add, except that MTS are like earthworms in their mating habits too. All MTS are male and female... They do have to reproduce, but they can store 'genetic material' from one mating...

At least from what I read. I could be wrong.

You can buy a manual timer for about $8.... put the lights on a 12/12 schedule...

I also agree with byrons comments on how your tank doesn't have any "depth". Looking at a photo, your aquarium looks about 6" from front to back.

Looks nice though. May I reccoment for the foreground Echinodorus Tenellus?
(Livebearers are common in flooded plains of central america, so grass-like plants work well.)
I would buy a timer, but my parents think its "dangerous" to leave lights on when we're not home and it might start a "fire". Sill thinking of an excuse to that... Anyway, right now I turn them on for about 45 minutes when I get up, then they go off (the room gets a bit of sunlight, though), then they turn on at 3:30 and go off at 9:30. I know its a really bad schedule, but I can't really do anything else.

I like the idea of adding some E. Tenellus... Might just have to order some extra when I get plants for my 20g.
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post #67 of 75 Old 09-09-2010, 06:25 PM
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oh wow... might wanna move it closer to a window then if possible...

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post #68 of 75 Old 09-09-2010, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Can't move it closer, but the plants seem to be doing ok. I already have 4 baby val plants.
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post #69 of 75 Old 09-09-2010, 07:56 PM
should the cabomba be floating or anchored down?

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post #70 of 75 Old 09-09-2010, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
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should the cabomba be floating or anchored down?
Mine is in the substrate, but I'm sure it can be floating (not possitive, though).
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