Originally Posted by The Baron
Thank you Byron, always look forward to reading your posts.
One reason I wanted to go with t5, was the compactness of the fixture and since it is show tank, hardware store fixtures wont cut it for me...way too bulky and ugly. at least what I can find here.
I;m a little surprised you mentioned only a single tube t5.. would that have enough light to penetrate to the bottom of a stanadard 55?
As always, I would defer to Byrons judgement with respect to plants in general for truly,, he has some very nice examples of what can be achieved with low to moderate lighting and without CO2 injection and all the bells and whistles that often accompany such tanks.
I might try the lighting scheme he suggests and see how plants do, while keeping in mind that in new tanks,plants will need time to adapt and may not get off real well until mulm,fish foods,fish waste,and or root tabs have a chance to benefit the plants.
I have grown most of the plants you mention with low to moderate lighting but not in blackwater tank where lighting might have to be a bit more than one tube be it T5 NO or T8 in order to penetrate to depths needed.
Blackwater,depending on how stained the water is,,, may need more light to achieve perhaps better growth.
Have grown crypts and anubia in tanks that were nearly absent of light other than what came through windows across the room and found that they did fairly well, while swords (heavy root feeders,, did much better under moderate lighting and addition of root tabs, Same with wysteria. Both did much better initially in already established tanks where substrate was mature.(never tried floating the Wysteria)
I believe Byron utilizes both substrate ferts and water column dosing as well, and I would try and duplicate his methods if possible.