filtration in planted 55 gallons - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 02-15-2011, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Question filtration in planted 55 gallons

i am going to set up a planted 55 gallon. originally i planned on using an eheim classic canister but now im reading that to much filtration is actually detrimental. now im planning on getting a sponge filter. are there any good ones out there? i dont know much about them
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post #2 of 6 Old 02-15-2011, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by smoodgie6 View Post
i am going to set up a planted 55 gallon. originally i planned on using an eheim classic canister but now im reading that to much filtration is actually detrimental. now im planning on getting a sponge filter. are there any good ones out there? i dont know much about them
I use a canister on my 45 gallon planted. I'm a big fan of filtration and water changes. I've never heard of too much filtration. I think that it's more about the media that you use inside your filter. The canister filter still has sponge filtration in it as well. There are other media baskets you can put whatever else in them you want. There are a multitude of options. I would advice a canister over a hang on the back filter anyday of the week, but i don't have any experience with an inside the tank sponge filter...this is just my opinion others may disagree..good luck with your planted tank. I would love to see some pitures when you get it going!!
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post #3 of 6 Old 02-16-2011, 11:16 AM
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On a 55g planted tank, either a canister rated for that size tank or a sponge filter (also rated for the tank size) would work. On the sponge filters, Hydro make them in several sizes including one for a 55g.

To pick up on the "too much filtration" point, yes, it is possible to over-filter, especially in planted tanks. But there are too separate but related issues to this, biological filtration and water movement (current). Both are important.

Encouraging biological filtration can be detrimental to plants. Plants need nitrogen, and they prefer it as ammonium. Ammonium comes from ammonia produced by the fish and bacteria--and with the bacteria we are talking about the aerobic bacteria that live in the substrate as opposed to the nitrifying bacteria. Ammonia is toxic, but in acidic water it changes automatically into the basically harmless ammonium. Plants grab ammonium. In basic water (pH above 7) plants grab the ammonia and change it to ammonium and then assimilate it as their preferred source of nitrogen. They are faster at doing this than nitrosomonas bacteria, but encouraging biological filtration allows more nitrosomonas bacteria to develop which compete with the plants. Unless the tank is overstocked with fish, sufficient plants will easily handle the ammonia/ammonium. Thus, encouraging nitrifying bacteria is counter-productive.

With respect to the water movement or current, this also can be detrimental to plant growth. Water circulation is important for bringing nutrients to the plant leaves and roots. And it also removes suspended particulate matter by trapping it in the filter, thus preventing it from building up on plant leaves. Too much movement can cause nutrients such as CO2 to be pushed past the plants faster than they can assimilate them, and in the case of CO2 this often results in the CO2 dissipating out of the water so it is lost. |And when CO2 dissipates, oxygen enters. And excess oxygen is also detrimental because oxygen binds with many nutrients, such as iron, making them unavailable to plants. So too much water movement is detrimental to plants on several levels.

As filtration drives both biological filtration and water movement, you can see fro the above how it can be "too much" in planted tanks. A sponge filter is ideal. And a canister that does not have too great a flow, which can be directed against the end wall to create a gentle current down the tank, is also ideal. Of the two, the choice might depend now on the fish in the tank, as some prefer little or not current, some need a current.

Most forest fish (characins, rasbora, dwarf cichlids, angels, discus, gourami) come from waters with little movement. Some catfish and loaches occur in streams with more current. The filtration must take into account what fish are going in the tank, since either group can suffer if what they require is lacking. If loaches and catfish are planned, a canister works best as you can have some current at one end of the tank that will dissipate as it moves down the tank, and the current-loving fish will naturally take up residence near the filter outflow. Many forest fish will take up residence at the opposite end, farthest from the stronger current. This occurs in my 115g Amazon riverscape aquarium. The cardinals and rummynose, quiet water fish, remain in the right half of the 5-foot tank, farthest from the stronger current. At the left side, the Woodcats, pleco, whiptail and a few cory species stay there,along with the Pristella Tetra. By providing both options, which is possible in a 4-5 foot tank, both fish groups are getting what they need to be less stressed and thus healthier.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #4 of 6 Old 02-16-2011, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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well since im going to be keeping forest fish and corys, i think the canister filter would be the best fit so they could each have a side of the tank
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-16-2011, 03:53 PM
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Not being that familiar with sponge filters in larger tanks(The largest I have used them on were 20 gal. spawning tanks) I would have to go with the ehiem. I have used a 2215 model on a tank for more than 15 years. As far a the current flow you can adjust it to your needs with the spray bar.

When looking for a solution to an Aquarium problem go slow and change only one parameter at a time!
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post #6 of 6 Old 02-17-2011, 09:17 AM
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Agree, from what you've mentioned of fish, a canister would be ideal. One rated to a 55g, nothing larger.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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