filtration in a 55 gallon planted tank - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 19 Old 11-16-2009, 05:23 PM
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Maybe I am missing something here, so forgive me if I do, but why are you after such a super powerful filter system? Do you a overstocked tank and you think that's why you need 2 such powerful ones on there?

I looked online and the filter you currently have is ~$50, compared to the Eheim I posted you the link above, so its few bucks cheaper, but well worth it IMO and I had these filters on all my 55g's from the first to the last one to the new one's now and God forgive me but I can tell ya my first 55g was well overstocked and it still did a wonderful job (of cause you'll still have to do your w/c).

~ Life Is Too Short, Break The Rules, Forgive Quickly, Kiss Slowly, Love Truly, Laugh Uncontrollably And Never Regret Anything that Made You Smile.
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post #12 of 19 Old 11-16-2009, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Byron View Post
I used to use surface skimmers that you can buy for Eheim canister filters; worked fine, ...I removed these when fish kept getting caught in them.

Byron.
I've heard the same thing about Eheim skimmers. I read the following brand works better, but some have had problems with the "plumbing" to hook it up. This one issue is the only reason I still have the UGF running. With it I don't get the scum.

http://www.bigalsonline.com/edealinv...LAID=388705120
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post #13 of 19 Old 11-25-2009, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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well guys i narrowed it down to this, please tell me what you guys think..

-Marineland cannister filter 350 pro from liveaquaria.com

- a whisper air pump model 100 (up to 100 gallons) and one or two oxygen plus bio-filter 2 ( sponge filter)

- or just leave one 350 penguin filter and use only floss and take out the carbon

please guys i know i bugg a lot.. But im just trying to learn from the best and you guys are awsome !
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post #14 of 19 Old 11-25-2009, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by johnnyjiron View Post
well guys i narrowed it down to this, please tell me what you guys think..

-Marineland cannister filter 350 pro from liveaquaria.com

- a whisper air pump model 100 (up to 100 gallons) and one or two oxygen plus bio-filter 2 ( sponge filter)

- or just leave one 350 penguin filter and use only floss and take out the carbon

please guys i know i bugg a lot.. But im just trying to learn from the best and you guys are awsome !
A very important consideraton is the fish that will be in this 55g tank. Plus my earlier comments about water flow in planted aquaria. On the assumption that this is the 55g tank under your "Aquariums" with discus, tetras, etc., I would opt for just the canister filter, provided it is rated for a 55g. Discus are sedate fish that live in quiet waters with little flow, flooded forest, etc., and the tetras may be the same depending upon species (and they should be the same if suitable tankmates for discus). Thick plant growth, minimal flow, will suit these fish and they will be less stressed and therefore healthier.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #15 of 19 Old 12-02-2009, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Byron! What type of floss should I use, since I dont want to use carbon?
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post #16 of 19 Old 12-02-2009, 01:33 PM
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Thank you Byron! What type of floss should I use, since I dont want to use carbon?
Use the pads that came with the filter. If you want additional filtering floss, you can buy bales of filter "wool" and maybe pads that can be cut to size, I'm not sure about the latter. Or just leave that section of the filter empty provided you have filter pads/wool somewhere to remove the fine particles.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #17 of 19 Old 12-02-2009, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Byron thank you so much!!!
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post #18 of 19 Old 12-02-2009, 04:42 PM
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[quote=Byron;275289
Your Eheim folks are thinking of the average aquarium with few if any plants, and oxygen/CO2 exchange is far more serious because there is no natural process there to deal with it. [/quote]

As I was also one of the one's suggesting the Eheim filter... I have to disagree there.

When I suggested this filter and was referring to my own set up's in the 55g's and larger I had severely heavily planted tanks, planted to the extent that you HAD TO keep taking plants out every week and cutting them way back just to you could see your fish for a few days before the jungle had overgrown again.

However that said, in any of these tanks, by Eheim themselves they'd suggest something larger such as Model 2217, my 55g's were set (and are set up now as well) with the 2213 which does not produce that extreme water exchange like its larger Models. Also I always attach my water output on one short side, while the intake is on the opposite other short side of the tank and the output is angled downwards, maybe something like 40degree angle so it SLIGHTLY moves the surface (barley visible to the eye) and it provides enough circulation under the water level for a proper exchange, but farrrr less then some filters that actually will make your plants swirl side to side.

And I'd want to say that the way my tanks were & are set up indeed had a natural process to deal with just like any of the heavily planted 20g's had for that matter.

IMO there's about 1 gazillion ways to set up a tank, double as much to maintain it and triple as much ideas & options from different people. In the end of all this, I personally strongly believe that its not ONE certain filter that works for a planted tank or ONE certain substrate or ONE fertilzier or only ONE type light ~ IMO a GOOD combination or rather a plant & fish PROPER combo out of all of these matters is what either makes a heavy planted tank work or die, its the balance of all these issues that the key IMO

~ Life Is Too Short, Break The Rules, Forgive Quickly, Kiss Slowly, Love Truly, Laugh Uncontrollably And Never Regret Anything that Made You Smile.
Life May Not Be The Party We Hoped For, But While We're Here, We Should Dance. ~
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post #19 of 19 Old 12-02-2009, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Angel079 View Post
As I was also one of the one's suggesting the Eheim filter... I have to disagree there.

When I suggested this filter and was referring to my own set up's in the 55g's and larger I had severely heavily planted tanks, planted to the extent that you HAD TO keep taking plants out every week and cutting them way back just to you could see your fish for a few days before the jungle had overgrown again.

However that said, in any of these tanks, by Eheim themselves they'd suggest something larger such as Model 2217, my 55g's were set (and are set up now as well) with the 2213 which does not produce that extreme water exchange like its larger Models. Also I always attach my water output on one short side, while the intake is on the opposite other short side of the tank and the output is angled downwards, maybe something like 40degree angle so it SLIGHTLY moves the surface (barley visible to the eye) and it provides enough circulation under the water level for a proper exchange, but farrrr less then some filters that actually will make your plants swirl side to side.

And I'd want to say that the way my tanks were & are set up indeed had a natural process to deal with just like any of the heavily planted 20g's had for that matter.

IMO there's about 1 gazillion ways to set up a tank, double as much to maintain it and triple as much ideas & options from different people. In the end of all this, I personally strongly believe that its not ONE certain filter that works for a planted tank or ONE certain substrate or ONE fertilzier or only ONE type light ~ IMO a GOOD combination or rather a plant & fish PROPER combo out of all of these matters is what either makes a heavy planted tank work or die, its the balance of all these issues that the key IMO
I may have been misunderstood. My coment was directed to the comment that the Eheim manufacturer recommends placement of the spray bar so it will create the maximum surface disturbance and current. My point is that in non-planted tanks this is more important because there are no plants performing the natural filtration (cleaning the water), and the filter is it, so all this helps. But in planted aquaria the filtration is handled chiefly by the plants and the filter only gently circulates the water and "clears" it via the pads. In this situation surface disturbance and high flow is detrimental as I detailed earlier to plants (and fish depending upon species). B.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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