Do I need fertilizers? - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-14-2011, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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Do I need fertilizers?

I have a planted 14 gallon biocube. I have sand and gravel as substrate and have a co2 system.The lighting is two 24w coralife each 10,000k. Do I need fertilizers? I now petco sells those plant tablets should i use those?
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-14-2011, 11:27 AM
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First, welcome to Tropical Fish Keeping forum. I know I've posted in a couple of your previous threads, but neglected to welcome you. Glad you found us and joined.

Yes, you will need fertilizers. With that much light and CO2, other nutrients will be needed in quantities higher than what the fish will provide. Light and nutrients must be balanced; if any thing is missing, plants cannot photosynthesize. And the more light, the more nutrients needed, otherwise algae will take advantage of the excess light.

The type of fertilizer depends upon the type of plants (species). If you can list the plants you have, I can suggest the best fertilization.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #3 of 9 Old 05-14-2011, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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planted1 - 14 gallon Freshwater fish tank heres some pictures.I only now what some of them are called if you could tell me it would be great.
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-15-2011, 09:29 AM
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They are all stem plants, and you have an algae issue. That is due to too much light without sufficient nutrients for the plants to use it, so algae takes advantage.

Liquid fertilizer is needed if you are going to continue CO2 and bright light. I would suggest Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement. Start with once a week. Stem plants assimilate nutrients via the roots and leaves and roots appear along the stem in many species so liquid fert is better than substrate additives. Also cheaper and easier to dose.

How long is the light on daily? Are they fluorescent tubes or compact fluoreswcent bulbs (screw in)?

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-15-2011, 10:31 AM
+1

38 gallon :
Pelvicachromis Taeniatus Nigerian Red not yet breeding pair
4 Pangio Kuhli
12 Hemmigrammus Bleheri
2 Botia Lohachata
1 Botia Straita
1 Ancistrus Sp.
6 Poecilia Reticulata




The Wet Spot Portland Oregon!!!!!!

ADA: Do!aqua Iwagumi 10 gallon size!
7 Clown Killies
7 Ghost shrimp
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-15-2011, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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I have the lights on for about 12 hours a day, and there compact bulbs.
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-15-2011, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maysick1 View Post
I have the lights on for about 12 hours a day, and there compact bulbs.
Two options to resolve the algae issue [I assume you are aware of it, that stringy green stuff on the plant leaves].

Reduce the intensity; two 15w CF bulbs would probably be sufficient. I would normally suggest 10w but you do have CO2 diffusion so that requires a bit more light to balance or the CO2 is wasted. I think 15w would work.

Reduce the period of light. Plants can manage with as little as six hours. The CO2 should only be on during the light period, otherwise again it is being wasted and could cause problems with CO2 excess. In strong light the plants will assimilate it (provided the other nutrients are also available--the Flourish Comprehensive mentioned previously will deal with this aspect), but not otherwise. Going down from 12 to 9 hours at this stage might work, then monitor plant response and algae.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-16-2011, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks byron, i cant aford to change the lights at the moment but i can shorten how long they are on for, yesterday i bought a bottle of flourish comprehensive like you mentioned, how much of it should i use?
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post #9 of 9 Old 05-16-2011, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maysick1 View Post
Thanks byron, i cant aford to change the lights at the moment but i can shorten how long they are on for, yesterday i bought a bottle of flourish comprehensive like you mentioned, how much of it should i use?
Dose the volume indicated on the label (quantity), no more, and with CO2 and more light as you have I would do it twice a week, first on the day following a water change, then 3 days after that.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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