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Cyanobacteria: gearing up for the TOTAL blackout

This is a discussion on Cyanobacteria: gearing up for the TOTAL blackout within the Beginner Planted Aquarium forums, part of the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium category; --> Very funny, Lainey. Nope, it's not my bulbs. They are replaced every six months, which pains me since each bulb is $30 a pop. ...

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Cyanobacteria: gearing up for the TOTAL blackout
Old 01-12-2011, 01:15 PM   #31
 
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Very funny, Lainey. Nope, it's not my bulbs. They are replaced every six months, which pains me since each bulb is $30 a pop. Tossing out a perfectly working bulb, argh. Another reason I want to move over to a T8 fixture, instead of these CF straight pin bulbs I'm using.

@Redchigh- Walstad is right, I still can't figure out what is out of balance...

Yes, I'll be doing the black out after I get home from being away for the weekend. I don't want to cover up the tank and leave for the weekend. I plan on doing water changes during the black out, in the evening when the room is dark. If there is a big die off of cyano I want to clear it out so my Discus don't have to be subjected to any increases in ammonia, etc. that may happen. I'm able to do water changes while keeping the tank totally dark, the way I have it set up.

@Lisa- Skip and Doc say thanks for the pets on the head, but Kasey wants to know why he wasn't wished one??
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Old 01-12-2011, 01:26 PM   #32
 
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Because I was going to wish Kasey lots and lots of kisses from Abbey

I really hope this works Kym. Are you doing the blackout for 3 days?
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Old 01-12-2011, 10:21 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by aunt kymmie View Post
Yep, and my Mama always says "Look on the bright side". So, I have pretty, healthy fish and some ugly plants. Ok, I can deal with that.

. I like the idea of doing WC's during the blackout, but be careful not to let it see ANY light...no peeking...lol. It's gioing to be tough. I may or may not have shined a flash light in for just a minute around hour 48 or so..lol
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Old 01-12-2011, 10:31 PM   #34
 
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. I like the idea of doing WC's during the blackout, but be careful not to let it see ANY light...no peeking...lol. It's gioing to be tough. I may or may not have shined a flash light in for just a minute around hour 48 or so..lol
Believe it or not, I will have no problem not peeking, because I want it to work! I'll do the W/Cs at night, before I go to bed. So, what do you think, four days in total??
My pair of Blues spawned today, so by Sunday they'll be wrigglers and come Monday they will have disappeared, as always happens. So I will start Monday as I don't want to interupt my Blues "routine".
I also realized I may have some Cardinals go by the wayside.
The tank will be pitch dark and Mr. Pictus will be in his glory.
After four days with no food I'm thinking he'll be making snacks out of a few of them.

(So, could you even see anything with that flashlight anyway?? lol)
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Old 01-12-2011, 11:47 PM   #35
 
Wait, you dont feed during blackouts?
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Old 01-12-2011, 11:49 PM   #36
 
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Wait, you dont feed during blackouts?
No. The fish, most of what I have, wouldn't even find the food in the dark, anyway. You want to keep all light out. All my fish will be prefectly fine with no food for that length of time.
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Old 01-13-2011, 12:54 AM   #37
 
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I agree- UV sterilisers will completely eliminate ich, (and other) parasites, Greenwater, and infectious bacteria, but I'm not certain it would help with Cyano.

D Walstad claims that if everything is in balance, you won't have algae outbreaks... (She added chunks of BGA, spoonfuls of Cyano, and cups of greenwater to her tanks to prove it- the algae was dead in a couple weeks.)

How old are your bulbs? Most tubes have to be replaced every year (or couple of years.) Maybe your tubes are old and the light diminished ?
Agree with above with exception that UV sterilizers can only addresss that which passes through the
'UV' unit.With parasites such as ICH the Sterilizer would only be effective during free swimming stage.
If for whatever reason the ICH became present,and cyst's dropped off of fish and managed to land on substrate which is not uncommon, then UV would have little effect. But perhaps frequent gravel vaccuming along with the UV would have desired results against ICH in such instances.
UV units rely on slow flow through the area where UV bulb is to allow contact time with the UV bulb and be effective. Parasites,,unless free swimming in the water,,would not be affected by the use of UV. IMHO
If cause of CYANO was/is water, Bacteria, I should think more than one tank would be affected.
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Old 01-13-2011, 04:49 AM   #38
 
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Please tell me how carbon will kill the cyano? By removing all the excess organics the cyano is feeding from??
I fear carbon would make no distinction between dissolved organics ,and or plant nutrient's.
Do other tanks receive same volume and number of water changes? Same dosing of liquid nutrient's?
You say plant's affected appear to be largely the crypts. Are they recent addittions? as you know,,these are very slow growing plant's and once moved, newly planted,,they can take some time to take hold.
did you trim a third of the roots before planting to help encourage new growth? have you placed root tabs ,jobes spikes,under the crypt's?
If all plant's are being affected, I might perorm the blackout as you plan ,and consider in the future, storing the change water for this tank for 12 to 24 hours before use to allow excess CO2 ,H2O to offgas ,and thus perhaps not create condition where plant's are struggling with frequent CO2 fluctuations.
But if we are talking about one species of plant,,then I suggest that plant's be removed and replaced ,with care taken to trim roots back a bit on new plant's to encourage growth,and adding afore mentioned root tabs at the base after planting. IMHO
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Old 01-13-2011, 12:19 PM   #39
 
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I fear carbon would make no distinction between dissolved organics ,and or plant nutrient's.
Do other tanks receive same volume and number of water changes? Same dosing of liquid nutrient's?
You say plant's affected appear to be largely the crypts. Are they recent addittions? as you know,,these are very slow growing plant's and once moved, newly planted,,they can take some time to take hold.
did you trim a third of the roots before planting to help encourage new growth? have you placed root tabs ,jobes spikes,under the crypt's?
If all plant's are being affected, I might perorm the blackout as you plan ,and consider in the future, storing the change water for this tank for 12 to 24 hours before use to allow excess CO2 ,H2O to offgas ,and thus perhaps not create condition where plant's are struggling with frequent CO2 fluctuations.
But if we are talking about one species of plant,,then I suggest that plant's be removed and replaced ,with care taken to trim roots back a bit on new plant's to encourage growth,and adding afore mentioned root tabs at the base after planting. IMHO
I dose all tanks the same as far as liquid nutrients. Even though I said I treat all tanks the same as far as maintenance I just realized that's not true. This tank I do twice weekly water changes (not just one like my other tanks) because this is my Discus tank. The frequent water changes keep the nitrates reading nearly zero. The cyrpts (not new additions) are affected the worse, but the wisteria, tiger lotus, ludwigia, etc. are all looking pretty sad now. The anubias I'm able to scrub the junk off of pretty well so they look decent. I haven't been putting root tabs under the crypts as I always thought they didn't like their roots being disturbed?? So I should use root tabs on the crypts?
I hate the idea of having to store the water. 50 gallons stored, then having to get it heated up to 83 before I add it to the tank, doing this twice a week, yuck. Now you're really making me have to work, lol.
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:18 PM   #40
 
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I dose all tanks the same as far as liquid nutrients. Even though I said I treat all tanks the same as far as maintenance I just realized that's not true. This tank I do twice weekly water changes (not just one like my other tanks) because this is my Discus tank. The frequent water changes keep the nitrates reading nearly zero. The cyrpts (not new additions) are affected the worse, but the wisteria, tiger lotus, ludwigia, etc. are all looking pretty sad now. The anubias I'm able to scrub the junk off of pretty well so they look decent. I haven't been putting root tabs under the crypts as I always thought they didn't like their roots being disturbed?? So I should use root tabs on the crypts?
I hate the idea of having to store the water. 50 gallons stored, then having to get it heated up to 83 before I add it to the tank, doing this twice a week, yuck. Now you're really making me have to work, lol.
I make my own root tabs by placing a few pellets of OSMOCOTE slow relase plant fertilizer found at lowes,walmart,lawn and garden store in the bottom of ice cube tray and then covering them with water and freeze.Then place them under sword plant(s) and crypts which is largely what I have. This product is safe if pushed deep and coverd with gravel and provides plant's with a bit more of the Macro nutrients than Flourish alone.
Have also placed a few of these pellet's in small pieces of Iron rich red pottery clay and then baked them on cookie sheet to form nice little plugs or balls that can be pushed into the substrate and covered.
Google .."use of Osmocote in planted aquariums" .
Many of the root tabs only contain maybe some iron and micronutrients. I like and use this product.
I also bought dry mix fertilizer ..MACRO and MICRO NUTRIENT MIX from AquariumFertilizer .com and use a tiny amount (talking 1/4 tsp of each maybe once every two weeks) Dosing vary's with volume of water.
Many folks doing EI dosing ,use three times this amount each week or each day with high light CO2 enriched tanks without issues with regards to plant's or fish or Algae.
I Can't see where tiny amounts of dry fertz at rates for low tech would have any effect on fishes and have yet to see such with my fish but I completely understand should you be hesitant.
I might search out info on EI dosing in low tech applications and form your own opinion.
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