Co2, O2, and surface agitation - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 19 Old 06-06-2012, 02:25 PM
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This all comes down to controlling light so algae does not grow when you don't have sufficient nutrients.

Through time and experience we can all find out what each tank needs. I ran a 5 and 10 gallon tank both at almost same watts per gallon ratio with the same lights for the same amount of time. The 5 gallon got algae while the 10 did not. It had less plants. Makes sense now.
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post #12 of 19 Old 06-06-2012, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for your help in clarifying this!

Simon... Great minds! I like that, though I don't know how great mine is - I swear some of this stuff makes me feel so dense! I'm having this EXACT problem with my baby Salvinia (I found some, yay!). But I have a HOB filter, so there WILL be surface agitation, there isn't anything I can do about it until I upgrade. . . I hope it does well. I spread it throughout my 4 tanks in the hope that if it fails in one, it will thrive in another!!!

As you said, the health of the FISH are more important to me then the health of the plants, though I really would like to have both thriving. Adding oxygen via surface agitation in a tank without plants is a no-brainer - especially a TALL tank - it seems to be the norm. But once the plants are added, I found so many differing viewpoints on this. . . so far, all seems well. . . high tech tanks are not now, and I doubt will ever be my thing, though they can be stunning - I just prefer the natural 'jungles'

Termie, I had NO problems with algae until my floating plants died off (and I was keeping the lights on too long because of my new BRs), so I know that was/is light related. It's died back since I've had the lights back on schedule, but I don't think it will go away until I get the floaters back to shade the tank. This will also reduce the surface agitation from the HOB, I think. . . so all good all around. I have another batch of Water Sprite on the way that was grown in a floating state, so I'm hoping it makes the transition to my tank much better this time. If not, depending on what the Salvinia does, I might have to steal some of your floaters ;)
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post #13 of 19 Old 06-06-2012, 04:54 PM
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The only other thing you can do is try and create some kind of baffle to stop the strength of the return from the HOB. maybe this could be an option? I just have my return moving my floating plants now, they spin round, all bunch up the far end etc, there is so much of the stuff now I have to sort through it almost daily to pull out the browning larger leaves, and to turn some of them back up the right way. Once they get going, they grow like mad!

To be fair, they can be a pain.... get stuck on your arm every time you go in the tank. all the turning upside etc. but the shade they provide the fish, and the plants like java fern and anubias is great!

Since I bought a timer plug for my lights, they go on at 10am, and off at 8pm everyday! I don't need to worry about them, and I have noticed a significant decrease in algae especially the dreaded BB..

Peace always..

If you worry you die, and if you don't worry you still die..... so why worry?
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post #14 of 19 Old 06-06-2012, 04:57 PM
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"Well maintained aquariums normally contain less than 5mg/L of dissolved carbon dioxide. Although, levels may fluctuate daily from 0-15mg/L. .... Light, temperature, pH, the number of photosynthetic organisms, depth, turbulence, altitude and salinity are all factors that affect the dissolved oxygen level in water. .... Low dissolved oxygen concentrations can also lead to associated toxic effects, such as the release of ammonia and sulphides from bottom sediments to the water column."
Don't feel like typing more out- this online book goes into some detail on both CO2 and O2, starting on page 55.
http://peter.unmack.net/tappin/Rainbowfishes.2011.pdf

However- if it's not broken, don't fix it, right?
Unless you are curious in a more knowledge thirsty way.

taking a break from fish-keeping.
3 lovely male betta still keep me company.
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post #15 of 19 Old 06-06-2012, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Olympia! I actually AM just curious in a knowledge thirsty way at the moment. This applies to SO many aspects of my tank's health, I want to understand it! I'll check out the link.

Simon. . . I'll just leave it as it is for now and see what happens. I have the plant in 4 tanks - it HAS to do well in ONE of them!!! Two of them are smaller tanks with the BioWheel filtration system, which is weird, but I haven't had any problems with it so far. The surface is calmer on those tanks, too. . . I put some sponge behind the HOB - between the filter back and the glass - to keep the little plants from getting stuck behind the filter in the dark, which is where they've been getting stuck. Hopefully this will keep them in the light enough to thrive.

Last edited by Chesh; 06-06-2012 at 05:52 PM.
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post #16 of 19 Old 10-01-2015, 06:09 AM
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This is an example of a 2 month old outdoor planted tank without ferts, without waterchange, without current, without CO2 and uses natural sunlight.
(a garden tank by Mr. Hanz Ang)
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post #17 of 19 Old 10-01-2015, 03:47 PM
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IMHO a planted tank will have more oxygen and less co2 with no circulation.

But that's just my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #18 of 19 Old 10-01-2015, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reinocraft View Post
This is an example of a 2 month old outdoor planted tank without ferts, without waterchange, without current, without CO2 and uses natural sunlight.
(a garden tank by Mr. Hanz Ang)
The image you posted isn't being embedded into the forum because it's a link to the page. I've retrieved the actual link for the image so people can see it on here :


That's quite impressive. How big is that tank?

How is it that you are able to achieve this without water changes? Lightly stocked tank in comparison to the amount of plants? Are there any fish in there?

I'm trying to achieve this with a few of my tanks but it's definitely hard. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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post #19 of 19 Old 10-01-2015, 08:52 PM
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IMHO and FWIW It is neither difficult nor unusual for planted tanks to be maintained by the plants with no water chages. One way I use is in the link in my signature

which is worth at most

.02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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