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cloudy water issue

This is a discussion on cloudy water issue within the Beginner Planted Aquarium forums, part of the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium category; --> The API root tabs disolve super quick. I found this out once upon a time when I did not fully bury the tabs and ...

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Old 12-02-2011, 01:43 PM   #11
 
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The API root tabs disolve super quick. I found this out once upon a time when I did not fully bury the tabs and my entire tank wen brownish and nearly opaque. Sounds similiar to your experience. As soon as I realized what had happened, I did a massive water change, making sure to rinse any floss or sponges in dechlorinated water. I added carbon to my filter, did very frequent and large water changes, and rinsed my floss/sponge every day. It was clear again in about a week. I never had a bacterial bloom, I never had changes to my parameters, and I didn't get any more algae than I had before. Hope this helps!
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:53 PM   #12
 
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Also...
Yes, carbon will remove part if not all of your ferts. Planted tanks don't normally use carbon for this reason.
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Old 12-02-2011, 03:41 PM   #13
 
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Do you only recommend 'dry' dosing? I have Seachem Flourish ("Comprehensive Plant Supplement"), Seachem Flourish Trace, Flourish Potassium, and Flourish Nitrogen. Do you recommend not using these liquid ferts? I'm going to go get more R/O water this afternoon and will post those parameters. Also, what do you recommend for my filter? Ammo chip inserts rather than the AC? I miss my old fluval canister filter, not sure what is available in these little cartridge filters.

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Originally Posted by Boredomb View Post
Dry dosing
50% H20 change-weekly
1/4 Tsp-KN03 3x a week
1/16 Tsp-KH2P04 3x aweek
1/2 Tsp-GH booster once a week
5ml or 1/16Tsp-Trace 3x a week
Optional
1-2ml-Fe/Iron 3x a week

Trace Element and Iron, Plantex CSM+B, or flourish comprehensive
Fe/Iron Chelate 10%
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Old 12-02-2011, 03:51 PM   #14
 
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Side question for you. Why are you using the R/O water? I'm asking because I recently (last night) found the source of my high Nitrates. My tap water comes out between 20-30ppm Nitrate. I considered using some filtered R/O drinking water, but am leaning away from the idea due to the extreme difference in the GH/KH/PH/Trace Elements, from R/O water compared to what my tank has stabily been running from the tap for 5 years. Sounds like more work in a planted tank than it's worth (at least for me). Then again it appears we have two completely different setups. Mine is the natural low-tech while your's seems to be on the hi-tech side.
Thanks!
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Old 12-02-2011, 03:58 PM   #15
 
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I'm using drinking water as well. Usually get it pre-packaged from Wal-Mart or the grocery store. It's the only way I could pull down my hardness. On the way to the store now to pick some more up and I'll post after I test it compared to my tap water. I'm trying to keep my water a little softer for the cardinals in my tank.
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Old 12-02-2011, 04:01 PM   #16
 
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I'm trying to keep my water a little softer for the cardinals in my tank.
Got it that's what I was wondering, my water is on the hard side as well, but all the fish do fine in it. I'm thinking personally for me the higher nitrates are less of a hassle then all the dosing and treating you have to do. You must love those cardinals
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Old 12-02-2011, 04:21 PM   #17
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADaleR1 View Post
Do you only recommend 'dry' dosing? I have Seachem Flourish ("Comprehensive Plant Supplement"), Seachem Flourish Trace, Flourish Potassium, and Flourish Nitrogen. Do you recommend not using these liquid ferts? I'm going to go get more R/O water this afternoon and will post those parameters. Also, what do you recommend for my filter? Ammo chip inserts rather than the AC? I miss my old fluval canister filter, not sure what is available in these little cartridge filters.
You can use liquid fertilizers but you just have to use more and they generally coat more over time. What kind of filter is it? I only have experience with aquaclear and my ehiem which are the only filters I have messed with.
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Old 12-02-2011, 04:40 PM   #18
 
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ADale I think I need to clarify about fertilizer. I use flourish comprehensive on my tanks it works good on low tech tanks for supplying fertilizer. In high tech tanks (like yours with high lights and Co2) its best to use dry ferts as you get better results and its cheaper for those setups. You could still use liquid ferts if you like and if it is working. But by the looks of your plants it isn't is why I suggested a different approach.
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:37 PM   #19
 
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Did a 50% water change tonight and I now see that somewhere I lost a Bosemani! Searched around but no fish remains to be found, of course it's very difficult to search when the water is so cloudy. Hoping the 50% water change helps keep things from getting too dangerous.

Also, I haven't started using anything except Flourish comprehensive, and only had that for a week. The rest of the liquid ferts have been ordered and are enroute. I was asking more if those were alright to use. I used Seachem products in the years past and seemed to have positive results. I'm not opposed to dry ferts, just never used them and would need to learn more before I try to jump in first.

My current filter is just an over the side with bio-wheel. Once I realized there were only AC cartridges for it I ordered the Marineland HOT Magnum pro canister with add-on bio wheel. Hopefully now I can get back to filtering without stripping my trace elements.

Here are the results of all my water tests
R/O drinking water: 6.8 pH, NH3/NH4, NO2, NO3 all 0, 1 dKH, 17.9 ppm GH/KH
Tap water: 7.7 pH, NH3/NH4, NO2, NO3 all 0, 10 dKH, 17.9 ppm GH/KH
tank after 50% wc: 6.6 pH, 1.0 NH3/NH4, 0.25 NO2, 0 NO3, 4 dKH, 35.8 ppm GH/KH

The ammonia and nitrite are both higher than they've been, and I'm thinking it's from the undiscovered dead fish. The only things I added to the water this time were Stress Coat, a Tblsp of aquarium salt, and a double dose of flourish comprehensive. I did notice during the water change that the lotus/lily bulb I planted in the back of the tank has taken off! If only I could figure out why my swords are so pathetic.
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:14 AM   #20
 
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So 12 hours after the 50% wc, the tank has not gotten any worse, and is significantly better than before the wc. You can barely see 2 shoots of my tiger lotus shooting to the top in the back. This would lead me to believe it's not a bacteria bloom?


Also, now you can see the state of my swords. I'm hoping someone here can tell me what the deficiencies are. The swords appear to have new growth, but all the older leaves are wasting away. This originally led me to think I have a potassium and nitrogen deficiency. Does that check?
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