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Changing from High tech to low light

This is a discussion on Changing from High tech to low light within the Beginner Planted Aquarium forums, part of the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium category; --> I will take pictures and post them. Coming to think of it lately I removed NO3 from the PPS-PRO and I believe that after ...

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Changing from High tech to low light
Old 04-27-2011, 05:20 AM   #21
I will take pictures and post them.

Coming to think of it lately I removed NO3 from the PPS-PRO and I believe that after then I saw the cyno but I am not 100% sure. For now I am going to dose PPS-PRO.

As for a fast growing I put a piece of hornwort because I do not have much and see if it grows well.

I went for PPS-PRO because I cannot afford to do 50% WC weekly. To much time consuming and too much waste.
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:19 AM   #22
I know you are not in the US. But IDK what would make WCs expensive. IMO you are not going to have much luck with High tech without large water changes and high fertilizer use. If you want to go low tech you have to reduce lighting. Its still not much of a reason to not do weekly WCs. I can understand a temporary situation where you can't do them. Long term though there is no reason. It is asking for problems.
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:25 AM   #23
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I looked into the PPS system... and I have to say, it goes against what every professional in the field of aquarium plants knows. (sorry if this was mentioned)

It could work, if the site said start at low light and work upwards, but it says it works with ANY light level.

If you want a cheap fertilisation system, I'd personally go for PMDD, or even soil substrates if you're really in a situation where you can't do W/Cs.

Do you use RO or distilled water for your tanks or something?.
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:30 AM   #24
No RO or distilled just tap water but I usually do 25% WC weekly no more though. About ferts I could go for seachem flourish comp every week but without NPK I think that I have algae issues.
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:43 PM   #25
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Well you wouldn't neccesarily have algae issues.. NPK is present in low levels in most well-stocked aquaria.

Might need to stop gravel vac'ing, but you'll be fine. just look at Byron's tanks- all he uses is Flourish comprehensive..
If you have a deficiency, you can identify it and rectify it.

Might be a good idea to just throw everything you know about plants out the window, and read Byron's stickies... Start over, so to speak.
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:50 PM   #26
If fertilizers are what is costing you EI for me costs $30 for about 2 years of fertilizers treating 70 gallons of high tech tanks. That $30 ends up being about 3-4 pounds of DRY fertilizers. You need a small gram scale off ebay. The only real issue is the hassle of mixing your own fertilizers which is minimal considering it costs at most 50 cents and 5 minuets to make one of those $10 bottles in the flourish line. If I couldn't use my cheap dry ferts no way would I be running high tech tanks. A high tech tank needs lots of fertilizers, no matter what you do you can't escape this. You increase light everything else must be increase to compensate for this. By fertilizers I mean an entire regiment, not just traces or macros alone.
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Old 04-27-2011, 02:56 PM   #27
So to make this clear maybe i misguided you.

I have in stock Seachem Flourish which I can use but right now sitting in the fridge.

I also purchased the dry ferts which are extremely cheap compared to seachem. Right now I am dosing PPS-PRO until I make a decision. As for WC I will try and do 25% weekly water change.

With EI I need to do 50% which I cannot do due to time.

So do you think that it is better switching on to PMDD? If yes should I dose the PO4 (phosphate)?
James' Planted Tank - PMDD
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Old 04-27-2011, 03:43 PM   #28
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PMDD is roughly equal to flourish, and much cheaper.

I do agree with you, that the EI is extremely time consuming. Yes, you should dose potassium phosphate. Phosphate was left out of the original, because of the rumor that it causes algae.

That's a much different recipe than I read, and doesn't seem similiar to flourish at all...

Here's the recipe I found, that chemically, is nearly identical.
into 250 ml of distilled water, add 1 TBSP of CSM +B, 1 tsp potassium nitrate, 1 tsp potassium sulphate. I'll double check when I get home.

Originally Posted by Tom Barr

Plants, not nutrients define the system and their ability to grow and flourish.
Ever seen a tank with algae and flourishing plants?

I haven't.

In tanks where the plants are flourishing and doing very well we see little if any algae. These tanks can seemingly have little or a great deal of nutrients, both are seen and there is a wide range observed. Why is that? Well, light and CO2 paly a rule also. Less light, less nutrients, also sediment sources can make up for seemingly low water column ppm's and poor testing can also lead to poor conclusions, as is often the case.

So sediment sources + water column dosing are synergistic, they make both methods easier.

As long as the sediment is not messy and you are not making a mess as well, then this is a good method to add to any water column dosing routine.

Less light = less CO2 demand = less nutrient demand.
Fish load also can and does add some variation as well and load of nutrients.

Plant biomass differences between tanks also play roles, and often tanks are nutrient limited which causes issues for CO2 demand(reduces the CO2 demand often several times), so if you add non limiting amounts of nutrients, then you have much more CO2 demand as result, if the CO2 is not adjusted for this, then you end up with algae, not from nutrients, rather, lack of enough CO2.

Such indirect relationships cause many to assume algae is limited by nutrients, without considering what and how the plants are affected and without regard or measure of the CO2 and light critically.

This was common decades or so ago, not so much today, but many "still cling to the past". Ironically referring to themselves as new, more evolved methods that dose less than EI etc. If you have low light, then it's not an issue, the tank is not limited by nutrients or CO2. If you have a PO4 limited tank, then you are not limiting algae, you are limiting CO2 demand from the plants.

Very poor conclusions and even worst test method/s.
You can find tanks with no PO4 measured and low limited PO4 and algae ridden. Likewise, where's my algae bloom if limited PO4 works as claimed? If this is true then I should be able to induce algae and run and high risk or a bloom if this theory is correct.

So both cases do not explain the results and observations.
Thats from the guy who (I'm pretty sure) invented EI dosing, pretty much admitting that it's unneccesary in low-light tanks. (in red).
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:23 PM   #29
mmm I am confused now. Well when you can send me the recipe that you use? And you are saying that it is similar to Seachem's?
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:27 PM   #30
or else I can go for the all in one solution by Tropica

James' Planted Tank - All In One Solution
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