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Changing from High tech to low light

This is a discussion on Changing from High tech to low light within the Beginner Planted Aquarium forums, part of the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium category; --> oh sorry about that. I have 4 tubes in total of 54 W each that means 1.8W/gallon. They changed the model and I got ...

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Changing from High tech to low light
Old 04-25-2011, 05:11 PM   #11
 
oh sorry about that. I have 4 tubes in total of 54 W each that means 1.8W/gallon. They changed the model and I got the new one with 4 tubes. The problem is that if I cut by half the light in the aquarium is not so nice because it becomes dull because on the back there will be light but on front nothing and same if they are reversed.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:39 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by migdem View Post
oh sorry about that. I have 4 tubes in total of 54 W each that means 1.8W/gallon. They changed the model and I got the new one with 4 tubes. The problem is that if I cut by half the light in the aquarium is not so nice because it becomes dull because on the back there will be light but on front nothing and same if they are reversed.
OK, I just did a calculation, your 450 litre 5-foot tank is about equal to my 115g 5-foot tank.

This is difficult for me to advise, as I have never bothered with CO2. And, the watts per gallon is somewhat useless, esp with T5 HO light.

I have experimented with T5 HO lighting, two 48-inch tubes (54w each) over my 115g. For my purposes, it was way too much light. I went back (after a week's test) to 2 48-inch T8 tubes, 40w each. Though again the watts is rather meaningless. The intensity is more important, and one T5 HO tube is approximately equivalent to 1.5 T8 tubes of the same type [e.g., Life-Glo 2]. So two 48-inch T5 tubes give the same light intensity as 3 T8 tubes. I only have two T8 tubes and it is adequate for my plants, and without additional CO2.

From this, I would assume that with CO2 and increasing fertilization to balance, you would need 2 to 3 48-inch T5 HO tubes. I assume youhave 4 now, and you had a real algae problem. That suggests there is too much light intensity to balance the nutrients.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:49 PM   #13
 
actually the algae that I am having right now is a bacteria. Maybe I could remove this manually with lots of WC but I do not know how to eliminate it :s

Also right now I do not believe that I have more algae apart that blue-green algae (bacteria)
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:18 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by migdem View Post
actually the algae that I am having right now is a bacteria. Maybe I could remove this manually with lots of WC but I do not know how to eliminate it :s

Also right now I do not believe that I have more algae apart that blue-green algae (bacteria)
As I think I mentinoed at the start of this thread, cyano is due to excess organics and light. I have battled it, only in one tank, and reducing organics (stricter cleaning, less nutrients) and cutting back the light did eliminate it in several weeks. Each week I removed as much by hand as i could, it came back within a couple days, until finally after 2+ months of doing this it stopped.
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:51 PM   #15
 
What is your stock in this tank? Also water parameters and what maintenance is preformed?

IMO this sounds like an imbalance more then anything. You do not have excessive light for your setup if it stays high tech. There is certainly something out of whack though.
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:46 AM   #16
 
well as stock I have 5x ancistrus, 7 clown loach, 15 sterbai cory, 10 angelfish and around 15 rummy nose tetras.

water parameters are
Nitrate - 25
Nitrite - 0
Ammonia - 0
PH - 6.6
GH - 7
KH - 3

tap water
Nitrate - 25
Nitrite - 0
Ammonia - 0
PH - 8
GH - high but reduced with resin to 7-8
KH - 3

maintenance 25% wc every 2-3 weeks. Right now I am injured usually every 2 weeks.
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:07 AM   #17
 
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I see two or three issues here. Glad Mikaila asked this, it helps us understand what's happening.

Nitrates: 25 ppm in tap water is high, and this is going to be food for cyano. As the nitrates in the tank are equal, the plants are not using these. A change in ferts may be helpful, I'll leave that for Mikaila who has experience with high-tech fertilization.

Water changes: must be every week, and 50%. As I mentioned, rigorous maintenance helped me rid my tank of cyano, and this water change is something that should be done weekly regardless. I understand about personal issues, and am obviously sorry to hear that, but the fact of the effect of the minimal water changes is still there.

Stocking: This is a lot of fish for a 75g, when they are mature. They may be small sized now, but they will (or should) grow, and this is going to increase the bio-load as they do. Fish that attain the adult size of angels and clown loaches need space.

Byron.
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:44 PM   #18
 
mmm it is about 120 gallon and not 75g.

450 litre tank
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:46 PM   #19
 
also today I did a water change.

removed much of the bacteria.

Should I continue fertilizing PPS-PRO for now and see if it solves everything with several WC?
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:34 PM   #20
 
I would suggest trying out EI (estimative index) dosing. Its similar to PPS-Pro, but designed to dose fertilizers in excess in a high tech tank. Are you using a basic "one-for-all" solution mixture? If you are making your own like I think, what do follow and how much are you dosing? PPS-Pro would work, but ATM it is clear something is not right. Unless you customize what you are dosing your not going to see much effect with PPS-pro IMO. Its based on providing the minimum nutrients needed. While you have a high tech tank that has a high nutrient demand. This IMO is where your problem lies. PPS-Pro and EI are very similar, just use a different method. EI method requires 50% weekly water changes to remove excess fertilizers.

As far as your tank nitrates, I don't see a problem with them. I have 20-25ppm out of my tap as well and have never dealt with cyano in either high tech or low tech. No single parameter causes algae or cyano IMO. It is the combined effect of multiple variables. Though I agree with byron that nitrate being the same in the tank is a sign you plants are not consuming very much of it. Though If you decide to switch to EI I would cut KNO3 entirely out of the dosing regime to start with. We aim for around 20ppm as a GOOD level, your tank is holding that ATM so I would not add any additional nitrogen there. That said, I would expect improved growth with EI and its likely the tank will increase nitrogen consumption. So if nitrates start falling then you need to start dosing KNO3. When not dosing KNO3 I would use more K2SO4 to make up for the loss of potassium. This is why those PPS-Pro and EI "starter" solution recipes are truly for starting. Both systems are designed and meant to be customized. Your tank may not need any supplements of a particular fertilizer, while another fertilizer may need to be dosed more then normal.

Also I highly suggest adding at least another species of fast growing stem plant to your tank, at least until you get back under control. Also what funky growth or things happen to your plants? Since I'm pretty sure this is a nutrient issue something has to be limiting and your plants will show it. Any current pictures would be helpful.
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