Baby Tears, or, Pygmy Chain Sword? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 20 Old 03-04-2012, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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My Hygrophila Polysperma and Cryptocoryne Wendtii Green. I've never been able to figure out the correct dosage for my size tanks, so maybe I'm not dosing enough.

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post #12 of 20 Old 03-04-2012, 12:15 PM
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My Hygrophila Polysperma and Cryptocoryne Wendtii Green. I've never been able to figure out the correct dosage for my size tanks, so maybe I'm not dosing enough.
Both those species tend to be somewhat reddish depending upon light and possibly nutrients. If you read our profile of the crypt (red form, but that doesn't matter) it mentions the variation and hybrids which are mixed up. As for the H. polysperma, the photos in Kasselmann's book are all quite red, though she makes no direct mentino of why, but there is a red-leaf variant of this species too so presumably the "red" is in the genes, so to speak.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #13 of 20 Old 03-04-2012, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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I seen the red variety, but it looks too similar and every red plant I've tried under my low light turns an awful, dull pink. I read somewhere that excel and comprehensive can be used together, to achieve more healthy looking plants. Basically all I want, is for the green plants to look green rather than have a yellow tinge to them, this is in the lower lighting tank - 12 gallon.

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post #14 of 20 Old 03-04-2012, 03:18 PM
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I seen the red variety, but it looks too similar and every red plant I've tried under my low light turns an awful, dull pink. I read somewhere that excel and comprehensive can be used together, to achieve more healthy looking plants. Basically all I want, is for the green plants to look green rather than have a yellow tinge to them, this is in the lower lighting tank - 12 gallon.
Green plants being light (I assume this is what you consider yellowish) is usually a nutrient issue. But we should consider light and nutrients as there has to be a balance.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #15 of 20 Old 03-04-2012, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Suppose I'm limited with this sort of lighting. I've been thinking about removing the lighting unit in my 12 gallon and replacing it with a more adequate unit, the thing is I'm not sure whether it will make much of a difference, or whether i'll need co2 with a higher wattage, which I don't want. If say, I changed it out for a 30w, that would give me around 2.5wpg to play with but I'm going to assume i'd have algae issues and need co2?

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post #16 of 20 Old 03-04-2012, 08:03 PM
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Suppose I'm limited with this sort of lighting. I've been thinking about removing the lighting unit in my 12 gallon and replacing it with a more adequate unit, the thing is I'm not sure whether it will make much of a difference, or whether i'll need co2 with a higher wattage, which I don't want. If say, I changed it out for a 30w, that would give me around 2.5wpg to play with but I'm going to assume i'd have algae issues and need co2?
Looking back in this thread, if the 12g has a 15w 6500K fluorescent tube, it has more than sufficient light for all but the fussiest of plants. Increasing this will not help the plants but will cause algae, unless you also increase all other nutrients. So any "poor" plant showing now is likely nutrient-related. What fertilizers are you using? Is the water soft or medium hard, and what is the pH?

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #17 of 20 Old 03-05-2012, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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You must have the patience of a saint, answering all my questions lol.

I dose a small amount of flourish comprehensive. I'm not good with numbers so I can never work out how much to dose, for such a small tank, so I barely give it 1 ml.

pH - 7.4

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post #18 of 20 Old 03-05-2012, 10:25 AM
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1ml is exactly the recommended dose for flourish comp. in a 12g tank. 5ml per 60g if im not mistaken.

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post #19 of 20 Old 03-05-2012, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Oh, I'm not as stupid as I come across then! haha

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post #20 of 20 Old 03-05-2012, 12:27 PM
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Fine there. But remember that plant nutrients come from more than one source. We add fertilizer to make sure everything needed is there, but these complete fertilizers are minimal in some nutrients because they work on the assumption that these nutrients will be otherwise present too, so one has to take that into account. Fish foods would provide everything plants need, if we dumped them in sufficiently. Which of course, we won't, for other reasons. Tap water also provides essential minerals like calcium, magnesium, potassium, perhaps some others. If your water is medium hard (which if memory serves me it is, and a pH of 7.4 would suggest this is likely) then those minerals are probably sufficient with the Flourish. Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen naturally occur in any fish aquarium, but levels of CO2 (carbon) may be low; leaving the substrate alone is one way to encourage natural CO2 production through the breakdown of organics (waste) via snails and bacteria.

From what I've seen in this thread, if plants are not really thriving, I would do a second dose of Flourish Comp. Once or twice a week, as necessary, is fine. Same amount. I actually use about a 1/2 teaspoon in my 10g, so maybe up the amount to 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) once a week and observe things for 3-4 weeks.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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