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Amazon Swords with brown spots on them, and Vals with hair??? on them

This is a discussion on Amazon Swords with brown spots on them, and Vals with hair??? on them within the Beginner Planted Aquarium forums, part of the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium category; --> Well I have knocked the time back, do the lights are on for only 7 hours, and thats for all tanks. I'm working on ...

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Amazon Swords with brown spots on them, and Vals with hair??? on them
Old 11-27-2012, 11:37 PM   #11
 
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Well I have knocked the time back, do the lights are on for only 7 hours, and thats for all tanks. I'm working on getting ahold of dome eqilibrium.

Is there anything else I may need. I first started with flourish, but then I was told to get root tabs cause flourish alone is not enough, and now I am told to get equilibrium. Just want to make sure there isnt anything else I need to get...cause it seems that everything I have done is not enough, and now I need to get something else new.
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:22 AM   #12
 
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Here is the big bucket:
Amazon.com: Equilibrium, 4 kg / 8.8 lbs: Pet Supplies Amazon.com: Equilibrium, 4 kg / 8.8 lbs: Pet Supplies

You can always try a smaller container first to get confidence that it will solve your problem. Amazon has the 300g and 600g bottles also, for $10 and $15 respectively. There are many other online stores though, like Dr. Fosters and Smith is talk about a lot and you can probably get it from Petsmart/Petco's online stores (haven't checked).

No, there shouldn't be anything else you need. Liquid ferts are usually all most people need. The tabs are helpful for heavy root feeders only, so only if you have them (swords and crypts) but even so sometimes these plants can get along just fine on the liquid ferts. The Equalibrium is only for people with extra soft water, which is a minority in the US.
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:34 AM   #13
 
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I'm with Geomancer.

Over the years (20+) I have experimented a lot with nutrients, substrates and plants. If a fertilizer is needed--and in some tanks with medium hard water, the right fish load, less light, and certain plant species--none may be necessary. Plant growth will not be spectacular, and many plants will never survive, but the selected plants will manage. But for most of us--because of the plant species we want, or the fish load, or tap water, fish foods, light, etc--fertilization is usually beneficial.

The first one to use, always, is a complete liquid. Not all liquid fertilizers are complete, many only contain a couple of nutrients. But a comprehensive liquid like Flourish Comprehensive Supplement of a couple others I have mentioned elsewhere will usually provide what is needed. These products are in balance, nutrient to nutrient, generally speaking, so the plants will do well and no nutrient will be in excess (which can cause other problems, depending). But as I said previously, the hard minerals in the tap water is an issue here, and when these are near-zero another product has to be used to supplement them.

Substrate fertilizers are the third option. Some plants gain no benefit whatever from these, if for instance floating plants, those without roots in the substrate, and some stem plants. But equally important is the fact that some nutrients are taken up via the leaves, and all plants will not benefit if these nutrients are not in the water column, which means via a liquid fertilizer.

I only use substrate tabs for the larger sword plants and the Tiger Lotus. I have grown both of these with only liquid fertilizer, but they certainly benefit from substrate tabs, quite noticeably so.

Byron.
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:15 AM   #14
 
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I will say, I did try something whilemy fish were in the hospital tank. I tried doing a water change. And when I went to add the new water, I did not use any primer. I noticed within a day or 2 that there was beginning to be an algae bloom. So I quickly did another water change but then ended up using primer.

Also, I used the root tabs for alot of my plants. The vals, the swords, the crypts and the dwarf hair grass. Should I cut back on them, and try to sift out the ones that are not needed from the sand?
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:56 AM   #15
 
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I chose to eliminate the possibility of nutrient deficiencies by ordering Macro/micro package of dry fertilizer's from Aquariumfertilizer.com
I googled Estimative index dosing for my size tank ,and found formula's for High tech CO2 injected tank's and scaled back my dosing, to daily amount used in high tech,, once a week or every two week's.
This was after reading .."Tom Barr's NON CO2 method".( I support this method)
For my 55 gal ,,I add 1/2 tsp KNO3,1/2 tsp KH2PO4,once a week, with CSM+B 1/2 tsp, twice a week.
For my 80 gal, I use 3/4 tsp KNO3,3/4 tsp KH2PO4, once a week and 1/2 tsp CSM+B twice a week.
For 29 gal, I use 1/4 tsp KNO3,1/4 tsp KH2PO4 once a week,with 1/8 tsp CSM+B twice a week.
I don't use the K2SO4 for there is enough pottasium in other two macro's but it will not hurt anything in my view to add it also.
These dry fertz are cheap, and for around 20 bucks,,I get enough to fertilize three tank's for nearly a year 80 gal,29 gal,55 gal rather than paying for product's that are largely water.
I am adding maybe 25 % or less of what those who run high energy tank's use on daily basis, and as Tom Barr suggested,,the plant's really do benefit from this, and I do not have to worry bout trying to indentify what plant's may be lacking.
Have seen no negative effect on fishes,cherry shrimp's, goin on two year's now.
BY-product of this method also eliminated condition's for algae to thrive .
When plant's are thriving,,algae cannot .
I know I am not using too much light,I know plant's are getting more than they need in low tech tank.That leaves only limited CO2,(plant's can adaspt to low CO2) which so long as I don't increase the light,,, which increases the demand for more CO2 ,more nutrient's,, that my plant's are getting what they need, rather than me trying to guess at what they may be lacking .
Anyhow,, I and many other's running low tech tank's have adopted this method ,and I am pleased with the result's.

Last edited by 1077; 11-29-2012 at 09:05 AM..
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:04 AM   #16
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CinBos View Post
Also, I used the root tabs for alot of my plants. The vals, the swords, the crypts and the dwarf hair grass. Should I cut back on them, and try to sift out the ones that are not needed from the sand?
I'd only use the tabs on the large swords, maybe the crypts.

However, do not try and dig them out as you'll end up with a big mess. They will no longer be solid!
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:29 AM   #17
 
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I'd only use the tabs on the large swords, maybe the crypts.

However, do not try and dig them out as you'll end up with a big mess. They will no longer be solid!
Then I'll just work on getting some more, because I honestly can't remember if I placed them aroun my swords. How close and how far deep should the seacem tab be placed around the plants?
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:23 PM   #18
 
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Then I'll just work on getting some more, because I honestly can't remember if I placed them aroun my swords. How close and how far deep should the seacem tab be placed around the plants?
About an inch from the crown, just needs to be under the surface. Placement isn't critical they just need to be in 'range' of the roots. You don't want to go drigging around though so you don't break the roots up. I just just on it until it dissapears under the sand.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:05 PM   #19
 
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So i went to a local fish store that mainly deals with freshwater plants and fish, and they informed me about this issue that I am having with brown spots and discoloration. He mentioned that I am more than likely lacking Potassium and Iron. He said I can use Seachem Potassium and Iron for that, but he also mentioned I should use crushed coral in my filter, because that will replenish minerals consistently throughout my aqaurium. What are ya'lls thoughts on the potassium, iron and crushed coral?
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:32 PM   #20
 
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Crushed coral is calcareous, which yes does add minerals (mainly just calcium) ... but it also raises KH and pH something you do not usually want in a soft water tank.

Targetting Iron or Potassium may be needed, but is something you have to be careful about. Iron specifically is toxic in too high a concentration.

Equilibirum, as we've mentioned before, contains all the minerals needed. It also has Iron in it.

Soluble Potassium (K20) 23.0%
Calcium (Ca) 8.06%
Magnesium (Mg) 2.41%
Soluble Iron (Fe) 0.11%
Soluble Manganese (Mn) 0.06%
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