Amazon Swords with brown spots on them, and Vals with hair??? on them - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 40 Old 11-26-2012, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Amazon Swords with brown spots on them, and Vals with hair??? on them

I noticed some swords with these brown spots on them. One sword even looks like it has discolored leaves. Also the vals I have in there look like they have hair on them or some kind of fungus. Please let me know what you all think, and what you think I should do to combat this...Thank you for your posts in advance.

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125Gal: 7 Silver Dollars, 1 Albino BN Plecos, 1 Green Terror, 1 Gold Severum, Red Severum, 8 Rio Cahals, and 2 Festivum

55Gal: 3 German Blue Rams, 2 Bolivian Rams, 1 Super Red Pleco, 9 Bloodfin Tetras, and 9 Oto Catfish

29Gal: Quarentine/Hospital Tank

20Gal: Female Pastel Ball Python
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post #2 of 40 Old 11-27-2012, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 40 Old 11-27-2012, 04:30 PM
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It's a bit difficult to tell from the photo of the swords, but assuming this is not something "on" the leaf (like an algae) but is more within the leaf [which is how it seems from the photo], it is a nutrient issue. But to attempt a diagnosis as to exactly what, you will have to give me some data:
Light specs, and duration daily;
Which liquid fertilizers are being used and how often;
Which substrate ferts if any;
substrate material (plain sand, gravel, enriched, etc);
GH of the source (tap) water.

As for the Vallisneria, that is a form of brush algae, at least, I refer to it as such. This is due to light primarily, and possibly nutrients. If this is the same tank as the above issue, the info I've asked for there will deal with this too.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #4 of 40 Old 11-27-2012, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Using Flourish comprehensive every tuesday and Friday. Use seachem root tabs. Lights are a 48" dual t-8's, with 2 6,500k tubes. The lights are on 8 hrs of the day.
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post #5 of 40 Old 11-27-2012, 05:00 PM
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Using Flourish comprehensive every tuesday and Friday. Use seachem root tabs. Lights are a 48" dual t-8's, with 2 6,500k tubes. The lights are on 8 hrs of the day.
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You missed a couple things...what is the tap water GH?

And I will assume a sand substrate, and this is the 55g tank, correct?

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #6 of 40 Old 11-27-2012, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, pool filter sand. I will get those parameters for you
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post #7 of 40 Old 11-27-2012, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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The ph is between 7.2-7.6, the gh is 30ppm. Using api freshwater master test kit
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post #8 of 40 Old 11-27-2012, 06:11 PM
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That speaks volumes. You need to increase the GH. While all commercial aquarium plant fertilizers may contain what we call the "hard" minerals, calcium and magnesium, these are in insufficient amounts for the needs of the plants in very soft water like you (and I also) have. Most people have more hard minerals in their tap water, so the fertilizers concentrate on the other nutrients to balance, leaving a minimal amount of calcium and magnesium. This applies to the Flourish Comprehensive liquid and the substrate tabs, both of which I use.

Fish aren't mentioned, but I will assume they are soft water. So the easiest solution here is to use a product like Seachem's Equilibrium to raise the GH by adding calcium, magnesium, potassium. Get the GH up to 4 or 5 dGH [the 30ppm is around 1.5 dGH] and this should solve things. Equilibrium is added right after the water change. Test the GH each week just prior to the water change, and when it is reading 4 or 5, stay with that dose.

There are a couple other products that do much the same. Brightwell Aquatics Florin Delta GH is one, and Seachem have now come out with a new plant line called AquaVitro and they have a liquid GH booster in this line. I use the Equilibrium powder because it is less expensive, I can get it online in a tub for a fraction of what you pay for small bottles of any of these in stores.

This is also part of the algae problem. The light is greater than what the plants can use because some nutrients are lacking, so algae takes advantage. I would reduce the duration by an hour per day, from 8 hours down to 7. Once the GH is higher, you might be able to increase this again. It takes a bit of experimenting, because all these things are inter-connected.

Hope this helps. If you have any questions on the Equilibrium, just ask.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #9 of 40 Old 11-27-2012, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I have called around everywhere for this equilibrium stuff, because we talked about it in another thread, but no place seems to have it. What type of place did you all get it?
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post #10 of 40 Old 11-27-2012, 07:52 PM
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Yeah I have called around everywhere for this equilibrium stuff, because we talked about it in another thread, but no place seems to have it. What type of place did you all get it?
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Online. You're in the US so you have several places. I'm in Canada and I use Pets & Ponds. The large pail will be the least expense long-term, as it will last you for perhaps a couple years if just the one tank. I have 7 tanks and 5 get Equilibrium, and I go through two pails per year. Some stores may have the smaller bottles if they carry Seachem products, but they will be more expensive per volume, a lot more. You will find the Brightwell Aquatics line online too, though perhaps only the smaller sizes. The AquaVitro line is so far only available from select stores that are Seachem authorized.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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