Algae! - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 40 Old 02-16-2012, 12:09 AM
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A not trying to hijack your thread either...am offering advice

I would try the slate first and clean as much algae as you can from the tank..if after a few weeks no more algae comes back then problem solved.

I have seen it countless times where fish stores have slate slabs or rocks with mineral deposits in them...the mineral deposits are what causes the algae outbreaks.
The only ones I would truly trust are either rocks I know are aquarium safe, or those attached to driftwood and other ornaments as they are true slate.

It could also be the photo period of your tank is too long as mentioned...even if you reduce it, it will not cure it, as the algae is already there.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)

Last edited by Tazman; 02-16-2012 at 12:11 AM.
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post #12 of 40 Old 02-16-2012, 12:14 AM
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wow, misread the original post somewhat.

Convinced now it is your lights causing the outbreak...that is an awful lot of light for a small tank like that.

I have 2 24" T5HO lights on my 75g and 6 on my 180g tank..one on a 15g is way way too much.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)

Last edited by Tazman; 02-16-2012 at 12:16 AM.
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post #13 of 40 Old 02-16-2012, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
Strange - Employee at the LFS said the lighting and inhabitants were fine - because I asked specifically. I can turn only one pair of lights on at a time, but I can't afford new lighting, even at Oddysea prices. Convert to salt? Lol. No.

Here are the requested pics:


Full tank - blurry. The babies are all hiding, the male is off courting one of the girls. Lol.



Right side, with my mondo condo. Lol.



Middle, the swimming and plant space/barrier.



The far right, lower light, subdued, baby-cave side. They like being near the big male, oddly enough.



Female Yellow in question...I think Bumble or Kenyi...



Miss Jewel. Being a dork and dominating the fake cave that she never rests in...xD



Annnnd the...Flavus? Girl? Idk? I was just guessing...



Fully colored...



Another angle...


Also, that's not algae on the side...that's water dried up that I haven't bothered cleaning off.

33g with Eheim Canister Filter (80g) and 40g HOB
Crushed coral sand, coconut shell caves, bubblers, power head, dead liverock, mopani, russian mossballs, hornwort, tape grass, assorted nameless plants, one lucky bamboo shoot
-2 Calico Ryukins
-4 Ottoclinus 2 male 2 female
-1 Clown Pleco male
-1 Shubunkin/Comet?, Calico female
-1 SAE, female
-Malaysian Trumpet Snails, Rams horns
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post #14 of 40 Old 02-16-2012, 09:36 AM
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Tank looks very nice by the way..plenty of places for fish to hide and chill out in.

First of all never take anything a LFS tells you in..99.9% of the time they want your money. Research and ask questions on forums is the best way to do it...that is far too much lighting for a small tank. I would put T5HO on a 55g tank and above nothing smaller unless it was a nano reef tank. Not only can it lead to algae problems but also temperature problems by overheating the water.

Now to the cichlids...Pseudotropheus crabro (bumblebee) and hongi will likely be a mini war if the crabro decides it wants to be be mean, which most of the time it can and will turn on a dime.

The other fish, it is too young to be able to give a definitive answer as to what it might be...I am not going to say what they are as I could be wrong....although it is showing strong characteristics of being a flavus, in which case you have major problems ahead...there are a couple others that it could be, but only time will tell.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #15 of 40 Old 02-16-2012, 10:32 AM
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I also agree that light is your algae issue. Light has to be balanced by nutrients, and if the light exceeds the available nutrients algae will increase.

Reducing the duration can often help. But when the light intensity itself is greater that what balances the nutrients, algae will still persist.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #16 of 40 Old 02-16-2012, 02:55 PM
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goes to show- never trust people at the LFS.

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^^ genius
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post #17 of 40 Old 02-16-2012, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
In the LFS's defense, I bought the lights, AND the plants elsewhere. I use aquatraders for lights for the savings, and I got the plants on usedeverywhere... I also personally know the LFS owners, and usually get the real information from the staff who know who I am (as well as good prices). These two were from their "assorted pseudos" tank and she identified them as such (and before you think they could be interbred, they come from the shipper individually packaged as "Pseudo, asst", so they really have no choice but to do the same thing, and they go so fast there's no chance of interbreeding, and I never buy the tiny ones for that reason...). I think the new girl there was incorrect, she's still going through their mandatory 6 month training (yes, seriously, they make them go through a crash course in all their live stock). But, again, I have not seen a growth of algae since it arrived - it's just been sitting there, since I clean the glass off.


But since I was recommended to remove the slate, I recently re-did the tank, and it occurred to me: couldn't I just buy something high-light high-nutrient requirement? But here's the new set up, after I pulled off the algae-infested tape grass pieces, and the suffocated dead stuff (and stole some for my son's empty invert tank, Lol).


Slightly out of focus. Bubbler is off at the moment. I can't sleep with the BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ by my head....Lol. Turning it on at night would happen for about 3 hours until we buy more line to route it to the other side of the bedroom.



The cannon, taken over by Java moss - Yay, now I can see it! I've even arranged a tiny little gap at the bottom for the one cherry shrimp that must have come from my son's tank.



The grass, on the far wall, with dead live rock (I know, not good, I didn't know any better - it's been in fresh for almost a year now, so any leaking is all done with, lol...)

Edit: Also, the "Flavus" has been spotted displaying like the make hongi (on side, vibrating) for the female Hongis in the tank, and has been coloring up to almost a pure silver-yellow-white color on pure black stripes....So now I don't know if she is a she anymore. xD! But she is 4" long - that's still young?

Also, I can shut off half the lights and alternate which pair get used. I will do that as well.

33g with Eheim Canister Filter (80g) and 40g HOB
Crushed coral sand, coconut shell caves, bubblers, power head, dead liverock, mopani, russian mossballs, hornwort, tape grass, assorted nameless plants, one lucky bamboo shoot
-2 Calico Ryukins
-4 Ottoclinus 2 male 2 female
-1 Clown Pleco male
-1 Shubunkin/Comet?, Calico female
-1 SAE, female
-Malaysian Trumpet Snails, Rams horns

Last edited by CowgirlFishKeeper; 02-16-2012 at 04:02 PM.
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post #18 of 40 Old 02-16-2012, 06:06 PM
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If you can only have one fixture on, that will reduce the light intensity by half and help.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #19 of 40 Old 02-16-2012, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
Yes; the fixture has two ballasts and two separate switches. Is the half lighting (48 watts, 3.2 watts per gallon) too low? Also, the spectrum of the stock Oddysea lights, could they be the wrong spectrum? I have a 2 bulb fixture on the 33 and the plants don't do so well...

Would getting something like red ludwiga or Rotala be appropriate addition to help out, if I were to do changes more frequently (to monitor fish waste)? Or would it be better to kidnap more cherry shrimp, or buy a molly?

33g with Eheim Canister Filter (80g) and 40g HOB
Crushed coral sand, coconut shell caves, bubblers, power head, dead liverock, mopani, russian mossballs, hornwort, tape grass, assorted nameless plants, one lucky bamboo shoot
-2 Calico Ryukins
-4 Ottoclinus 2 male 2 female
-1 Clown Pleco male
-1 Shubunkin/Comet?, Calico female
-1 SAE, female
-Malaysian Trumpet Snails, Rams horns
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post #20 of 40 Old 02-16-2012, 06:52 PM
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[quote]Yes; the fixture has two ballasts and two separate switches. Is the half lighting (48 watts, 3.2 watts per gallon) too low? [QUOTE]

Watts is not a very reliable guide, due to all the different types of lighting now available, with most of it being more "energy efficient" which means less energy (watts is just the measure of the amount of energy used to light the tube) producing more and more intensity. For the plants you have, yes, half the light will be more than enough. Youo need to find that balance between light and nutrients.

Quote:
Also, the spectrum of the stock Oddysea lights, could they be the wrong spectrum? I have a 2 bulb fixture on the 33 and the plants don't do so well...
Spectrum is important. What are the tubes?

Quote:
Would getting something like red ludwiga or Rotala be appropriate addition to help out, if I were to do changes more frequently (to monitor fish waste)? Or would it be better to kidnap more cherry shrimp, or buy a molly?
Yes, red leaf plants need more light because they reflect the red light and red is crucial to photosynthesis. Also, fast growing plants help. And floating plants. Water Sprite would thrive in this tank.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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