Is 30watts of Fluorescent Lighting(Ten Gallon Aquarium) to High For Water Wisteria? - Page 2
Tropical Fish

Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources » Freshwater Fish and Aquariums » Beginner Freshwater Aquarium » Beginner Planted Aquarium » Is 30watts of Fluorescent Lighting(Ten Gallon Aquarium) to High For Water Wisteria?

Is 30watts of Fluorescent Lighting(Ten Gallon Aquarium) to High For Water Wisteria?

This is a discussion on Is 30watts of Fluorescent Lighting(Ten Gallon Aquarium) to High For Water Wisteria? within the Beginner Planted Aquarium forums, part of the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium category; --> Just to be sure that my earlier comment is not missunderstand: Do not buy ANY bulb at the home store. You wanna get something ...

LinkBack Thread Tools vBmenu Seperating Image Search this Thread vBmenu Seperating Image
Is 30watts of Fluorescent Lighting(Ten Gallon Aquarium) to High For Water Wisteria?
Old 01-01-2010, 05:24 PM   #11
Angel079's Avatar
Just to be sure that my earlier comment is not missunderstand: Do not buy ANY bulb at the home store. You wanna get something that round about equals 1wpg on your tank, and one that's labeled 'daylight' which also you should see the rating on the pack saying something like 6500 Kelvin. Here at Lowes I buy them from company called Bright effects, but not all stores carry the same stuff. GE, Phillips and Salvina also make them thou (I just like the Bright effects Daylight bulb better cause its energy safer).

Wouldn't wanna risk you going to the store buying a wrong bulb cause me now

To determine water parameters (ph, hardness, NO2, NO3, Ammonia) you're best up using/ buying a liquid test kit (such as offered by API or Tetra) that's reliable and accurate - Nothing worst then acting upon false readings from a bad tester

What liquid CO2 are you using Excel?
And what root tablets, the one's I know you only replace ~ 1x year???

Well now for your plants the Hygrophilia & Rotala will explode even without any nothing added to your water - So happy trimming there ahead of you with all what you're adding to the tank.

What confused me some: All these plants named feed of off liquid fert's not via root system (like Swords do) - So why the root tablets if you have no root feeding Plants?
Angel079 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2010, 08:07 PM   #12
alphazetatango's Avatar
I just bought two new bulbs, two t8 15 watt bulbs, it says the light output is 510 lumens, cri: irc: 90k.

I bought it from lowes and it's labeled as Plant and Aquarium Fluorescent Lights.

Also, forgot to mention I have duckweed as a plant too, I likes'm. lol
alphazetatango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2010, 08:19 PM   #13
alphazetatango's Avatar
Water Fertilizer I'm using, just reading off what it says on the bottle now , From Top to bottom it reads, Plat Care Solutions: Fertilizer 0-0-5 & Water Conditioner: Makes Wter Safe for Fish Immediately, Removes Chlorine and Chloramine, Adds Potassium and Iron, With Allantion- A Natural Protectant: At the bottom it looks like a company logo of a palm tree that reads, 'Jungle'.

Root Tabs are from a company called, API (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals). Directions for use: Add 1 tablet for each 30 square inches of gravel surface. Push midway into gravel bed. (A standard 10 gallon aquarium requires 6 tablets.) Add new tablets monthly for optimum plant growth. Which is then followed up by saying, "Guaranteed analysis 3-1-1.

After posting this reply I noticed their are three numbers with dashes in between. What exactly is the difference between fertilizer 0-0-5 and fertilizer 3-1-1?

Why exactly am I using root tabs since my plants don't have a root system like that? Honestly I wasn't really aware of that, but I do believe my anubus plants would benefit from the tabs. I here their a slow grower, but I've got alot of fast growing plants to contrast the slow growth ^_^. Also, wouldn't the tabs help establish a rich substrate for eventually the dwarf hairgrass?

Is my Lighting sufficient now?

Last edited by alphazetatango; 01-01-2010 at 08:21 PM..
alphazetatango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2010, 02:59 AM   #14
alphazetatango's Avatar
Ahhh, I just understood the whole 1 wpg thing, I'll experiment with this aquarium and get back to ya
alphazetatango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2010, 09:04 AM   #15
Angel079's Avatar
Originally Posted by alphazetatango View Post
I just bought two new bulbs, two t8 15 watt bulbs, it says the light output is 510 lumens, cri: irc: 90k.

I bought it from lowes and it's labeled as Plant and Aquarium Fluorescent Lights.

Also, forgot to mention I have duckweed as a plant too, I likes'm. lol
I don't find 90 kelvin very appropriate for raising good healthy plants. Like I said up to, I had best success with bulbs @ 6500 Kelvin.
Angel079 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2010, 09:10 AM   #16
Angel079's Avatar
With your plant set up, I honestly don't see a need for root tablets.
You say your Anubias...Haven't seen your tank, but Anubias are best 'planted' attached to Driftwoods or alternatively if need be rocks, not IN the gravel

The numbers are % by weight in the analysis of ferts, being nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium
So in your case 3-1-1 > 3% nitrogen 1% phosphorous and 1%potassium
Angel079 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2010, 10:37 AM   #17
alphazetatango's Avatar
Awesome, I bought some bogus bulbs. Fail on Lowes with their "Plant/Aquarium Bulbs" *Bites their neck*

Also, I've had my tank for about two months now. Here's the current problem, but I'll start by saying what I have stocked in my aquarium, Two Harlequin Rasbora, 1 Bamboo Shrimp, 3 Marble Cory Cats, 2 Chinese Algae Eater, and a stray minnow hitch-hiker.I've had them for about a month. Bluntly, I've been testing my water for Ammonia, Nitrate and Nitrate(also PH) every few days from my LFS. I had my first bacteria boom about a month ago when I had just my plants in.

After a small struggle to control the nitrite boom the tank stabilized and after about a week I Slowly started introducing fish. I began the tank with red gravel and and underground filter.

I did some research with the filter and after awhile I began to really hate it(through trial and error, I personally think they suck, it built a strong layer of bubbles at the top which kinda made me angry). I solved the problem by deciding to take out the underground filter, since I was going to have to remove most of the gravel anyway, I decided to buy a 20lb bag of Eco plant gravel/dirt. But while I was taking out the underground filter their was A LOT of bacteria built up under the filter and when I took it out, it made the aquarium very murky, like poop water*lol*. I put in the Eco gravel and after about 12 hours the cloudy water cleared up. It's been about 3-4 days since transferring the new gravel. So yesterday I went to my LFS and got my water tested again, their was barely any ammonia, the nitrite level was 5+ and the nitrate looks like it's starting to spike now too at 3+.

I'm wondering if the gravel or all the bacteria in the water could have caused this newest outbreak? I noticed the fish acting a little strange(and the shrimp) two days ago. I think I caught this outbreak just in the nick of time before it killed any of my fish, learned a lesson and bought myself my first Nitrite testkit(Their expensive, I'll buy more test kits eventually but I have a budget).

How many bacteria blooms should I expect before my tank finally stabilizes? I change 25% of the water every week, fish seem to love it .

Also, my shrimp seems to be perking up, the Chinese algae eaters are kinda freaking my out. Basically the tank will be under observation for the next week or so. I've done two water changes since yesterday, little freaked out that I don't want to change to much water, but I feel like I needed the two changes so that's what I did. lol.

Oh, my profile pick is my plant setup ^_^!!!! I be oober proud of it ^_^

Tank set-up: From left to right, Back left corner is the water heater, middle is the two wisteria, to the right is my log, then to the right of that is the anubus, then the bunch plants(forget their name).

Last edited by alphazetatango; 01-02-2010 at 10:40 AM..
alphazetatango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2010, 01:42 PM   #18
Byron's Avatar
With a nitrite reading of 5, I would do an immediate partial water change, half the tank, and be prepared to do the same every day until the nitrite is down to zero or at most .25, significant pwc will not hurt the fish or plants. Don't vacuum the substrate as the bacteria are colonizing it, although once your plants are growing this will be less significant.

Photos are nice, this will be a fine aquarium when it is settled, good work.

Byron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2010, 03:00 PM   #19
Angel079's Avatar
Just bring em back...At Lowes look for the company name "Bright Effects" and their daylight bulbs (they're 6500kelvin) they work WONDERFUL for me. Also Phillips carry's daylights too.

I pers never done UGF in non my tanks...and honestly don't want to cause I find it less fortunate when having plants.

Honestly, spent the $5 and buy AT LEAST a test for yourself for NO2 and Ammonia, please. That way you can test each day (even on holidays) and can act upon it asap, or safe up the real big bucks and get this one Tetra Laborett Master Aquarium Water Test Kit: Fish
You tank is totally in-stable still

Like B. said, do a w/c ASAP at least half if not more. Thereafter monitor your water best you can, and I'd pers do twice a week 25% w/c till its stable. Don't add no fish, don't feed too much (lil and once a day) don't change no filter, don't change no gravel. You can always add more plant thou

Going to look for your pic's now....
Angel079 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2010, 06:32 PM   #20
alphazetatango's Avatar
Check and check , I have the NO2 kit, a very nice one, the exact one they used at petco. Sadly when I was shopping I noticed the test-kits didn't have a price on them, so I kindly asked the lady working their how much the kits where, she pointed out the NO2, Ammonia and nitrate kits where only 5$ each for the type of tests they used for my water. So, I thought "Wow, 5$ is cheap for that good of a kit" But, as I was checking out I noticed the price was actually 10$ and I was a very unhappy camper. Needless to say, as I was trying to figure out where the extra 4-5$ went(I was still thinking it was only 5-6$ in my head, the dude behind the counter gave me huge attitude, and after a heated debate on mathematics, I realized, "oh the missing money disappeared cause it was a few bucks higher and this dude isn't mentally retarded". I'm sure he was thinking the same thing about me, but not before a few words were exchanged and me snapping, "YOU DON'T NEED AN ATTITUDE!" lol, god <3 customer service. pshhh

Secondly, since I figured I had crap loads of lighting, I only returned one lighting and kept the other. I figure I'll keep one weak light, and buy a new bright light. I took your advice and bought from the company, "Brights". Still 15watts, 7500kelvins. I found out the difference between kelvins. Kelvins is a type of degree, 0 kelvins= -273.(something) degrees, so I'm guessing my 90 kelvin light wont be that hot . Also what the kelvins tells me is the type of lighting that is being emitted, anything below 4500k and the lights going to be a reddish, anything 4500+ you'll have a bluish light. I figure two types of lighting is better?

To finish it up.... My fish started getting some white salt like spots on them, found out it's "ick". Bought the medication today and started cycling the tank. Nitrite levels are now reading at 1. But, my fish seem to be gasping for air, same with my Chinese algae eaters. So... I'm fighting ick now along with controlling my new ammonia spike! (Punts a zombie baby!)

I read up a good way to get rid of this is copper, BUT, I know copper is deadly to shrimp. Hence why I read it's good to have a isolation tank for the shrimp(I don't have one :/ so I guess this is my lesson learned). The medication I'm using is from that company API, I'm not sure if it has any copper in their(I've given my first dosage though, it recommends if you have invertebrates, give half the dosage, which kind of tells me it has copper ) Also, read that salt helps. I heard from a few people and they completely stressed that I raise my temp to 82 degrees to increase the death cycle of the parasite. So I'm slowly raising the temperature back up. I had it re-stabilized at 78 degrees and I raised it to 80 degrees today. Will increase it to 82 degrees tomorrow, Slowly increasing the temp so I don't hurt anything(read up that, that's what I should do?)

Any tips on combating this parasite while not killing my shrimp or plants?

P.S. What would cause my plants to melt? I had one of the leaves on my wisteria melt last night(it was the new leaf that sprouted), my wisterias been growing about a 1/4" a night, one is extremely bushing out, while the other is more like a bean sprout.

Would it hurt my wisteria if I find out a way to curve the plant in its growth? Like making it look like an S or sorts?

Not sure if I mentioned this already or not, but current readings of nitrite are at 1. Yay! Still under observation. I am expectin another ammonia spike hence I have the itch sickness <_<"!!!!! (Bites a helpless girl on da nose)! roar! One problem after the next! Learning is great ^_^ but I don'ts want te'h fish or plants tew die! arggg! I'll see how well I control the itch.

Last edited by alphazetatango; 01-02-2010 at 06:47 PM..
alphazetatango is offline   Reply With Quote

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need help with water wisteria carguy123 Beginner Planted Aquarium 5 04-08-2010 01:37 PM
fluorescent lighting ? 125aquarist Beginner Freshwater Aquarium 4 05-04-2009 11:28 AM
Water Wisteria sinadyan Beginner Planted Aquarium 3 08-24-2008 03:14 PM
Plants impossible in small tanks with fluorescent lighting? Neufusion Beginner Planted Aquarium 5 06-13-2007 07:21 PM
Water Wisteria TexasTornado Beginner Planted Aquarium 34 11-22-2006 11:12 PM

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:21 PM.