I have checked my water and it's right on.I do water changes every other day.5 gallon bucket and then a 30% on Sunday.
I'm just very concerned about my fish.I had a Balloon Angel Ram die this morningFirst casualtie in my 36 gallon tank.Since it's been running.
There is plenty of oxygen as i have a planted tank and a air bubbler.
Any advise would be highly appreciated
Thank you
We need more information such as:
1. Date you started the tank.
2. How many fish and type?
3. Water test kits? What type?
4. Is there chlorine or chloramines in your source water?
5. What do you use to treat your source water?
6. How did you cycle the tank?
7. Did you test for ammonia and nitrite at the end of the cycle?
8. Overfeeding your fish can interfere with the biofilter.
9. Too many fish can overload the biofilter.
The date was Sept 1st..It's all cycled now.I have Rams,Harlaquin Rasboras,Tetras,Gouramis,Loaches,.I use the API test kit.I also use Seachem Prime for the water.I feed every am. Posted via Mobile Device
Can't really help without numbers, otherwise it is all guessing.
What you describe are the classic signs of an un-cycled aquarium (Ammonia/Nitrite poisoning).
I always question when people say "the numbers are fine" or similar because that means different things to different people. Any number other than 0 Ammonia and 0 Nitrite is bad, there is no safe number.
A mistake people often make when new to the hobby is after cycling the tank they fully stock with fish which causes another cycle. A newly cycled tank is very fragile and only 1 or 2 fish should be added (or a small school for schooling fish) with 1-2 weeks between new additions.
Temperature, pH, and water hardness can also factor in.
Amonia is in between 0-0.25,nitrite is 0 and Nitrate is between 0-5.0..Just tested it again.I would take a pic of the water sample but I don't know how to put it on the thread Posted via Mobile Device
I concur with Geomancer. A fully cycled tank takes about 4 to 6 weeks. And you added too many fish too soon. Your biofilter does not have enough bacteria to process the ammonia.
Too establish your biofilter, purchase a bottle of Seachems "Stability". This will add the necessary bacteria for the biofilter. Add 15 ml on the first day, then use 9 ml for the next 7 days. Use a baby/toddler syringe to measure the dose.
Continue to add prime after every water change. The dose for the Prime should be 3.5 ml.
I concur with Geomancer. A fully cycled tank takes about 4 to 6 weeks. And you added too many fish too soon. Your biofilter does not have enough bacteria to process the ammonia.
Too establish your biofilter, purchase a bottle of Seachems "Stability". This will add the necessary bacteria for the biofilter. Add 15 ml on the first day, then use 9 ml for the next 7 days. Use a baby/toddler syringe to measure the dose.
Continue to add prime after every water change. The dose for the Prime should be 3.5
ml.
The ph in tank is 6.6 and the ph in the tap is 7.6...I do have a good flow in my tank with my power head and the air pump..I will find a good home for Dojo's when they get bigger.I
work at the LFS.I will make sure they find a good home.They are somewhat small now.I have my temp at 77-78..My tank has alot of plants in it that are doing great for oxygen I'm thinking?
Should I do a 5 gallon water change every day to see if that will help? Posted via Mobile Device
The ph in tank is 6.6 and the ph in the tap is 7.6...I do have a good flow in my tank with my power head and the air pump..I will find a good home for Dojo's when they get bigger.I
work at the LFS.I will make sure they find a good home.They are somewhat small now.I have my temp at 77-78..My tank has alot of plants in it that are doing great for oxygen I'm thinking?
Should I do a 5 gallon water change every day to see if that will help? Posted via Mobile Device
Oxygen is not likely the issue. In any aquarium, unless it is way overstocked or something suddenly happens to the biology, oxygen will not be a problem. The gaseous exchange at the surface handles this. Fish breathing more rapidly than normal, gasping at the surface, acting listless--all these signs are almost never due to shortage of oxygen. Which is why we are asking questions, to pin point the issue.
I asked about the pH because this, like nitrates, can be a sign of something wrong. Even with all the frequent water changes you are doing, the tap pH of 7.6 is lowering quite a bit down to 6.6 in the aquarium. Has this always been the case? It would also be useful to know the GH and KH/Alkalinity of the tap water, as this is related. A too low pH for the fish species can cause the symptoms desribed. Now, here I would not expect much of an impact at 6.6 with the fish named since most are soft and slightly acidic water fish, but if this is fluctuating it could be more serious.
Which fish species are respirating faster than normal? Is this when they are at rest?
If it is the loaches, it could be oxygen and the temp may be part of it. These fish are cooler water, low 70's is sufficient.
It would be hepful to see a video, if this is possible. I know I have in the past thought respiration was above normal, only to learn later it wasn't. Not saying there is no problem, but it can be difficult to diagnose isues.
I tried earlier but it wouldnt work.I'm going to do a 40% water change tomorrow using Prime and Stability by Seachem and then a 5 gallon each day to see if it gets better.I'm going to rehome my Dojo's when I find them a good homeThey aren't to big right now but the water isn't below 74 either.Just want the best for them also Posted via Mobile Device
Do you think maybe I should start feeding my fish every other day instead of every day?Maybe that could be one of the problems too? Posted via Mobile Device
my quick read and summary of the stuff I "keyed" on.
Tank is planted
pH is 6.5
water is treated with prime.
Fish are breathing heavy and at least one has died.
Tank is less then a few months old.
my analysis:
Fish are suffocating. Low oxygen, high CO2 due to the prime treatments and not enough plants.
I would immediately add (and protect from the fish) all the anacharis I could. Oin the order of 10 bunches at the back or corners perhaps behind a partition to protect the plants.
I would stop adding food for a few days and check to see if the pH just before lights out increase. And I mean a large increase. Not just to 6.9 but to 7.5 or higher.
Then look at your fish and see if they are breathing better and more active.
231*.056=12.9dkh. Which is fine assuming I'm accurate.
my planted tanks with peat moss in the substrate, no added chemicals, no filters, no mechanical filtration had a kH of 4 degrees, gh of 9 degrees and a pH of over 8.
so to me with the low pH you have high carbon dioxide which is making it difficult for the fish to exhale. Therefore- the fast breathing. Getting fast growing plants to suck out the co2 will correct that situation. (I also presumed the plants you have are the slower growing one supposed to be used for plant eating fish. But that is really an assumption on my part. Supported my the low pH and fast breathing fish).
Additionally prime and other ammonia locks also lock up oxygen and can suffocate the fish.
My fish don't eat my plants.What plants would u recommend?I will go get them today.All my plants I have in my tank are in my Aquarium log.I don't know the names off the top of my head.Im going to do a 40% water change with Prime and Stability.Is this not good? Posted via Mobile Device
My fish don't eat my plants.What plants would u recommend?I will go get them today.All my plants I have in my tank are in my Aquarium log.I don't know the names off the top of my head.Im going to do a 40% water change with Prime and Stability.Is this not good? Posted via Mobile Device
4 or so Vallisneria (grass like) back and down sides.
4 potted type plants like crypts and the like. (right and left of center)
1 amazon sword centerpiece.
with a 30 gallon you could double and be safe.
The amazon sword you can just one of. It is relatively expensive and gets large so you could even skip.
The small potted are also interesting and expensive so you might skip them also.
The vallisneria is somwwhat expensive but spread rapidily with runners which I find interesting and helps the tank ecosystem.
The anacharis is relatively inexpensive, a very fast grower, that rapidily conditions the tank. But can get "stringie" over a few months and when successful will require frequent pruning.
So overall you get a mix of fast and slow growers. So the fast ones rapidily condition the tank initially then the slower ones like the sword provide more long term balance and stability.
if you're actually going to plant you could just stick the plants in the substrate.
But if you have time and a container you could.
1) empty all the fish and water out of the tank right down the to substrate.
(of course save both the water and fish :lol
2) plant the plant in the substrate sticking in the air. (this will look really funny with all theplants all bent over).
3) then refill the tank by pouring the water over a dish.
4) then re-add the fish before the last of the water is re-added.
What that does in prevent stirring up the substrate creating a clear tank right from the start.
If you just stick the plants in the substrate you will stirr up all kinda of crud creating a cloud. In the case of a sand substrate the tank will be so cloudy you can't see 1 " into the tank. then two days later (with my no filter tanks) the tank is almost crystal clear.
Lol...u didn't insult me...I have most of those plants.I'm going to do a water change now and see how that goes
No worries at all..I appreciate your input Posted via Mobile Device
Lol...u didn't insult me...I have most of those plants.I'm going to do a water change now and see how that goes
No worries at all..I appreciate your input Posted via Mobile Device
Posting photos I can help with. When you type the post, in the section below headed "Additional Options" you click the "Manage Attachments" button, then in the pop-up window click "Browse" and find the photo on your PC and double click it.
Actually IMHO there is not one value of pH for your tank or anyone elses'.
for instance pH increases with decreasing carbon dioxide. Which would hardly be harmful to any fish.
So a lot depends on what else is happening in the tank with resulting differences in pH and everything else.
In my (what people consider wierd) tank with no mechanical circulation or filtration, I consistantly see a pH of well over 8 with the api high range test kit. Usually peggin that kit at 8.4-8.8. And for both FW and marine and even FW tank with 1" of peat moss under the substrate. Yet with those "extreme" values even fish like neon tetras and hachetfish that are reported as needing ph values of 7 or less, live for years and years.
But those tanks are fully balanced out with plants (FW) and algae (marine) which makes the tank a net sink of carbon dioxide and source of oxygen each 24 hour period. Again, hardly a dangerous or unhealthy environment for any fish.
My concern with your low pH was that the tank was not fully balanced out resulting in high carbon dioxide causing the fish to breath rapidily.
I will read it.I just went to the LFS and got 3 more plants and some flourish comp supplement.I was using the Excel.The guy at the fish store said I could use them both together.Is this true? Posted via Mobile Device
I will read it.I just went to the LFS and got 3 more plants and some flourish comp supplement.I was using the Excel.The guy at the fish store said I could use them both together.Is this true? Posted via Mobile Device
Yes, but I must caution you on the Excel. This is a liquid carbon supplement, and the ingredient (besides water) is polycycloglutaracetal, apparently a trade name for a product developed by SeaChem, which appears to be an isomeric form of glutaraldehyde. The Material Safety Data Sheet for Excel list glutaraldehyde as the active ingredient, and cautions on its use.
This chemical is a disinfectant used in hospitals to kill bacteria, it is used in embalming, and in anti-freeze. It can irritate skin on contact. Some plants (Vallisneria is one) will melt when Excel (or APIès similar CO2 Booster) is used. If it happens to be overdosed, it may kill plants, fish and bacteria, depending.
There should be sufficient CO2 naturally occurring in the aquarium to avoid using such a risky product. But if you do, recognize that the light and other nutrients may need to be increased to balance. Plants can only photosynthesize fully if all their requirements are met.
I reviewed the video you sent me (Kelli) and have now re-read this thread. As I mentioned in my PM, the rams and gourami do seem to be respirating a bit faster than normal, and one gourami is actually down at the substrate behind a plant, obviously stressed by something.
I'm not suggesting any one of the following is the cause, though each may contribute.
I assume the Excel is not being added, so that gets rid of one toxin. The temp at 78 is low for the ram, but I would not expect this to cause the fish trouble getting oxygen, rather the opposite. But again, too low a temp is stress.
I am puzzled by the low pH. A decrease of more than a full point from 7.6 down to 6 when the KH is as high as it is here is not normal. This could be affecting the ram, not sure about the gourami. The ram is very sensitive to water parameters and needs to be maintained in water very close to that in which it was raised. As these are likely tank-raised fish, and not wild caught, the params for the breeder would be important. This presumably we do not know (?) but assuming it is close to your tap water then the lower pH could well be doing this.
My advice would be more frequent water changes. About 1/3 of the tank, daily, using only the conditioner (Prime). Do a vacuuming of the substrate where it is open with the first and second WC. Monitor the pH by testing it just prior to each WC. This should raise it up slowly. Aside from the WC's, don't do any other disturbance in or near the tank, to provide the fish with quiet time to further reduce stress.
I have been doing my 50% water changes and they still are breathing the same.I still feed them everyday but they eat all there food.It's hard for me not to feed them when i have these little eyes following me every time i walk by the tank.They know there feeding schedule.If feeding them every other day will help them,then i will do that
Should i start buying RO water?
I just noticed that this thread is missing some critical info that we discussed by PM when I had your video. To bring others onside and gain the benefit of their advice too, I will summarize.
The pH in the tank is now in the high 7's so it is close to the tap and remaining stable. The previous pH of 6 is no longer relevant, so this means the ammonia reading is toxic ammonia and not ammonium. I believe this is the cause of the fast respiration. The ammonia is slowly burning the gills. My suggestion now is for daily partial water changes using Prime until ammonia is zero.
I thought so to.I kept the lights off most of the day as it was light in there already.They seemed more active.I'm going to skip feeding tomorrow and go from there.I will keep you posted Posted via Mobile Device
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