White String Fuzzy substance growing on plants! Need Help! - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-09-2013, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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White String Fuzzy substance growing on plants! Need Help!

Its been going for 4 days now and cannot determine the source. My parameters are perfect for my area. The only thing that comes to my mind is that the lights on my tank aren't strong enough. some of my plants do not appear to have enough lighting and are shriveling. I am running a Marineland Double Bright LED system on a 27 Gallon cube.
Using Flourish Comp fert for my plants, 2 times a week enough?


5 Panda Cories
5 Black Window Tetras

Tank is two weeks in since planted, and I am waiting on moving the fish into this bigger tank until I can fix this problem...
Thanks for any help
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post #2 of 10 Old 02-09-2013, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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pictues of the bacteria on the leaves

heres the pictures of it.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN5350[1].jpg (44.0 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN5349[1].jpg (49.5 KB, 22 views)
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post #3 of 10 Old 02-09-2013, 03:35 PM
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I doubt it is the light being too low, I use a Doublebright and find it fine for everything except the highest light plants. Green Cabomba and it appears a Giant hygrophila are a little too needy. The dwarf Hygrophilia is thriving, and then some. How long are your lights on each day?

Something is out of whack but you've two problems. Shrivelling plants and the growth.

First:
Quote:
Originally Posted by prestono2014 View Post
My parameters are perfect for my area.
...but what are they and what does perfect for your area mean? Soft water might cause the plant issue.

The growth looks green in the picks but you said white... Is it, in fact, white and not green?

If the plants are not doing well, for whatever reason, the growth can take off due to an abundance of nutrients that the plants are not using. Probably should cut the fertilization until you figure out what's up... It may be compounding the growth issue.

I looked at your tank in your profile, nice looking tank. One thing that can help with higher light plants is to offset the fixture and specifically plant them directly under the more focused areas under the bulbs. I setup a shade side and a bright side, java fern and crypts in the shade and everything else in the light.

You could have put the tetras in the tank right after the plants. The fish produce ammonia and CO2 which would help the plants. Mine took off each time I added new fish.

Jeff.


Total years fish keeping experience: 7 months, can't start counting in years for a while yet.

The shotgun approach to a planted tank with an LED fixture

Small scale nitrogen cycle with a jar, water and fish food; no substrate, filter etc
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post #4 of 10 Old 02-09-2013, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Okay my parameters are:
pH: 7.6
Nitrites:0
Nitrates:0
Ammonia:0

The tetras were added the day after plants were in. The Corys were added 4 days after plants.

The growth appears to be white or a very very faint green.
My light is placed mostly over the moderate light and covers the low light plants pretty well.
I also just realized I can no longer seem to find the shrimp I had that were cleaning the plants.

The growth on the biger leafed plant is only on 1 leaf...
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-09-2013, 04:38 PM
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Sorry meant parameters GH and KH.

Jeff
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post #6 of 10 Old 02-09-2013, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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The local hardness is:
1.5-4.0gpg 26-68ppm
Which is Slightly to Moderate Hardness

Sorry for the late response...
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post #7 of 10 Old 02-10-2013, 01:30 PM
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It looks like hair algae, but maybe someone else can weigh in here.

Never too far from crazy


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post #8 of 10 Old 02-10-2013, 04:22 PM
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I can't see anything white on the leaf of that sword in the first picture, only the green algae around the leaf edge. There is a lot of this on the leaves of the lower plants in the second photo.

Can you post a clearer photo of the leaf with the white? Not too close, it might be more focused back a bit.

I just looked at the photo in your log. The sword is new, and the existing leaves are the emersed form, so expect them to yellow and die off as new growth appears from the centre of the crown. Are you seeing new growth yet? The "white" may just be a whitening of the leaf as it is providing nutrients to the new leaves.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

Last edited by Byron; 02-10-2013 at 04:28 PM.
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post #9 of 10 Old 02-10-2013, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prestono2014 View Post
The local hardness is:
1.5-4.0gpg 26-68ppm
Which is Slightly to Moderate Hardness

Sorry for the late response...
Moderate hardness? That puts it at a maximum of 4dGH and I would consider that soft but I am dealing with as much as 23dGH which is in the neighbourhood of 400ppm. I will admit that most anything is softer than that. Byron would know better how that may affect plants and how to adjust it, but I think it is a little low... 5-6 dGH is better.

Jeff.


Total years fish keeping experience: 7 months, can't start counting in years for a while yet.

The shotgun approach to a planted tank with an LED fixture

Small scale nitrogen cycle with a jar, water and fish food; no substrate, filter etc
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post #10 of 10 Old 02-11-2013, 11:06 AM
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A GH of 4 dGH [= 71 ppm] is soft. "Soft" and similar terms are approximate guides, but the few degrees within each term is of little significance. Plants generally require 4 dGH minimum in order to have sufficient calcium and magnesium. It somewhat depends upon the plant species.

My tap water is 0.7 [= 7 ppm] GH, which is almost zero minerals. I have tanks to which I add nothing other than Flourish Comprehensive which has a very minimal amount of calcium and magnesium, and plants like Java Moss, pygmy chain swords, floating Pennywort and Water Sprite are lush and thriving. But in my larger tanks, the large Echinodorus swords fail without adding the hard minerals which I do via Equilibrium, to raise the GH to 5 dGH. The Red Tiger Lotus also requires this, and the crypts do better. Some plants, such as Vallisneria, will not last in this soft water, so I don't try them.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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