04-16-2011, 06:06 PM
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On the spraybar, I direct the holes toward the glass just to diffuse the current a bit. It achieves this without actually reducing the volume, just the strength of the current. Using the valve (on the newer models now) actually reduces the amount of water flowing through, which is a different thing. By experimenting with the spray bar (turning it very little) you can create a slight surface disturbance or not as well, which can also be helpful. The extent of all this depends upon what you need for the fish.
The heater I place beside the filter return (spraybar) so the flow carries the heated water into the tank. This also prevents the heated water from just rising up as it will do without a current. In my longer tanks (4+ feet) I use two heaters, one at each end so the water entering the tank and then leaving the tank is being heated.
One of the negatives about Rena filters is that the tubing only comes in 5-foot lengths. I have one of these on my 115g and have to place the canister on the floor at one end, so I cannot reach the opposite end with any of the tubes. I get around that by putting the filter outflow as far down the tank as |I can, and removing the spraybar so it is the full current, and then directing that toward the end wall about a foot further on. It has worked well; the water hits the end wall and bounces back, and is strong enough to provide a noticeable current for a foot or two, which suits the woodcats just fine.