water testing of 10G-cycling questions - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 14 Old 02-03-2008, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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on http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php i read that i should only be doing 10-15% water changes and that 25% is too much. but here people are recommending 25% water changes. which is right? did i just not understand something completely?

also, when will i know that my tank is done cycling?
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post #12 of 14 Old 02-03-2008, 10:36 AM
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Larger water changes are necessary when you've got fish in there. You really want to keep the ammonia levels as low as possible to minimize damage to your fish.

As for knowing when they cycle's done, when the tank reads 0 ammonia & nitrites and your nitrates are steady, and everything continues to not change- voila! Cycled tank!
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post #13 of 14 Old 02-07-2008, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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so the ammonia is staying steady at 0 but the nitrite seems to be stuck at 0.1 which is the lowest color measurement on the back of the pamphlet thingy. its a nutrafin mini master test kit for freshwater. should the water be clear at 0 or will 0.1 be the lowest i can read for this test? if it is stuck what can i do to get it unstuck?

i've been doing 25% water changes every other day. today i did 50% water change because i had to put it on a new stand (nothing was turned off (some held the tank while i put i new stand underneath). will the 50% change get the nitrite to finally go to zero or did i just mess up the cycle?
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post #14 of 14 Old 02-07-2008, 06:20 PM
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Nitrites always seem to take a little longer to get to 0. Stay with a 25% water change.

150 Gallon - Mostly American Cichlids
135 Gallon - Angelfish Community
75 Gallon - Odd couple (Polleni/Angelfish)
55 Gallon - African tank
20 Gallon Long - QT
10 Gallon - Empty
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