**Water Filtration Question** - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 22 Old 06-15-2012, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LyzzaRyzz View Post
Ive actually never seen a filter like that neonk!
Does it float on the surface, or is it suction cupped?
maybe raising it a bit off the water would help with helping oxygen enter the water?

What do you think Byron?
Ive never encountered this type of filter before..so i dont know how to fix the problem!
What problem?

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #12 of 22 Old 06-15-2012, 10:52 PM
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Whether he is getting enough oxygen in the water without there being much of a ripple.
Unless, im understanding this wrong..

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post #13 of 22 Old 06-16-2012, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LyzzaRyzz View Post
Whether he is getting enough oxygen in the water without there being much of a ripple.
Unless, im understanding this wrong..
I thought maybe you had a problem here too.

Provided the aquarium is balanced biologically--meaning the fish stocking is suitable for the water volume, the fish species are suitable for the environment (water flow, decor, parameters), there is adequate filtration, no overfeeding, good maintenance (weekly partial water changes), etc--there will be no oxygen shortage. Even in a still body of water there is a gaseous exchange at the surface. The more water movement, at the surface, the more the exchange. Live plants also factor in if there are any.

It is only when something is out of balance that oxygen shortage might arise.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #14 of 22 Old 06-16-2012, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Byron,
That is the best answer so far, I appreciate it, figured they couldn't make the tank if it don't work. (Right?) Let's hope so.
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post #15 of 22 Old 06-16-2012, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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To LyzzaRyzz,
yeah this one is weird. The filter sits in a permanent holder that is built into the tank itself, the only problem with lowering the water is then it only covers about a .25 cent piece area on the filter, not really going over all of the carbon to get clean, clear water. Thanks though! Byron helped me out, I think It'll be o.k.

Last edited by neonk; 06-16-2012 at 09:52 PM. Reason: forgot to mention member who asked a quesstion
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post #16 of 22 Old 06-17-2012, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemo the Clownfish View Post
I've got a sort of question related to this discussion. For purpses of this question, let's assume that at night in a low tech tank with the hang-on-back filter off less surface agitation would keep CO2 longer in the water more at night. I assume that photosynthesis during the day would be able to proceed longer without surface agitation during the night.

I have a hang-on-back filter which creates plenty of surface action. I would like to turn off the HOB at night. I figure that since the fish are less active at night and use less oxygen they'll be alright. Will the results be significant enough to warrant the change? Will the stagnancy at night work negatively?

Appreciate any analysis.
Several times at water change i have forgotten to turn the filter back on for the night . One time for about 20 hours and have noticed no difference. Take it with a grain of salt as my tank hadnt cycled. Its a 20g with 3 small platys.
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post #17 of 22 Old 06-17-2012, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron View Post
You should never turn off the main filter, at any time. Bacteria in the filter need oxygen, and stopping the water flow for more than an hour or two (as when doing a water change) will suffocate the anaerobic bacteria. Depending upon the fish in the tank, this could harm them too, in a couple of ways.

Filtration and water flow are two very different things, though they obviously are connected since both are normally due to the filter.

In a balanced natural-method planted tank, there will never be any shortage of oxygen or excess of CO2 that will cause any issue for fish.

CO2 definitely builds up during darkness, otherwise the natural or low-tech method wouldn't work at all. In most natural planted tanks, the CO2 will basically be used up during the light period, so it has to be replenished during darkness. And keeping surface disturbance minimal will prevent it from being driven out of the water faster.
Thank you byron, bacteria suffocating with filter off could be just the problem Ive been fighting for weeks!!!
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post #18 of 22 Old 06-18-2012, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Nemo the Clownfish View Post
Looks like if you want to grow a nice low-tech planted tank, you won't have any surface agitation. If you really want some you can buy an air pump and some kind of bubling device.
Just to add to this as an additional note about CO2, etc. I have a heavily live planted tank and no CO2 injection. I use the bubbler at night because O2 levels drop and I want to keep my fish comfortable. In the morning the bubbler is turned off and a small amount of liquid CO2 is added to compensate for the CO2 loss during the night.

Might be an idea for your tank, OP.
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post #19 of 22 Old 06-18-2012, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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Smile

I hopefully have solved the problem or potential problem.
Amazon.com. Hagen mini-elite internal filter. I read that is for tanks up to 3 gallons and is very small and inexpensive and quiet, and also very powerful for small tanks so figure it would have no problem with a 5 gallon, logic is two is better than one. I'll post how it goes in combo with the other filter later.
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post #20 of 22 Old 06-20-2012, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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Problem really solved!

Thanks to everyone for the replies on my filter issue. The problem is really solved this time. If you look at the bottom of the top picture (picture of the filter) You will notice a channel at the very bottom of the picture. Water is supposed to be filled even higher than I got it in the picture and then it flows out of the channel creating more surface agitation- that takes care of it. Also I got the hagen mini-elite before I figured out about the channel issue, it works great, it is a nice filter for small aquariums, it doesn't have carbon though just a sponge filter inside, you could probably modify it to fit your needs though, it is super powerful and I'm pretty sure it would do fine by itself in a 5 or 6 gallon tank even though it is only rated for up to 3. This filter is small, quiet, effecient and provides a venturi and air nozzle for multi-directional water flow and air bubbles, and it has adjustable water flow, it is quite the filter all for around 10 dollars on Amazon. Quite the learning experience for me!! Live, learn, and have fun.!!
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