Water changes on 120+ gallon tanks - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 07:10 PM
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Yea roughly, the 150% is just a safe dose method, many people only dose for just the amount of water they are changing.
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post #12 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 09:45 PM
I don't use any water conditioner on anything less than 30% water changes. That's a relatively small amount in terms of water volume.

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post #13 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by GilbertonFisher View Post
I don't use any water conditioner on anything less than 30% water changes. That's a relatively small amount in terms of water volume.
That works great if you don't have chlorine or chloramines in your water supply but for those of us with it in our supply its usually better safe then sorry, not knowing how much of the counteractive agent is left it the water from the last time we used the conditioner.
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post #14 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 10:17 PM
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Very much true.

55 gallon planted tank, starting over!!!( looking crappy, needs a major rescape)
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post #15 of 16 Old 01-05-2012, 01:00 PM
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I would never assume a water conditioner to still be effective after 24 hours. In response to my direct question, Seachem responded that Prime is effective for 36-48 hours. Nevertheless, I would not want to test this on an aquarium with fish just in case.

On the issue of not using a conditioner, this can be very dangerous unless you know that the source water is absolutely free of various substances. Chlorine/chloramine is the most dangerous, and most municipal water supplies contain some level of chlorine and many now use chloramine. While chlorine in very small amounts may not cause problems, it can be increased without notice and prove fatal. I experienced this for myself.

Heavy metals is another contaminant; while the level in treated municipal water will likely be "safe" for humans, this does not apply to fish. Copper for instance is deemed "safe" at levels which can easily kill some fish. And those on well water may have heavy metals in the water, iron being common.

Live plants will take up (as toxins) many of these, but there is a limit. Levels beyond what would be deemed trace amounts could prove dangerous to fish.


Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #16 of 16 Old 01-05-2012, 05:35 PM
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Our water is chlorine only but they use enough that when I fill the sink to do dishes, it smells like a public pool. Noway I'd add that unconditioned to my tanks. Or condition the tank and add the water but definitely conditioner for my water.
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