01-04-2012, 07:00 PM
| || |
Originally Posted by zof
I'm a little curious on why you think the water left in the tank would be toxic? It should be the same water they were in before the water change started, just less of it, sure the temp will drop a few degrees but nothing to fret over, unless massively over stocked and crammed, the fish shouldn't produce enough ammonia to worry about in the 30 minutes you are changing water, plus alot of your bacteria is actually in the sand/gravel so they will still be busy at work. You can use a garden faucet too (should all be the same water) but just be careful of the temp of water that comes out.
I was thinking about the new water. I had assumed you drained, filled, then put conditioner in.
But after reading more comments I see it is drain, condition, then fill.
So how much conditioner? 150% of the change, or exactly? So if you remove 30 gallons, put condition in for 45 gallons?
Originally Posted by Byron
My pail and siphon method stopped when I acquired my first large tank, a 90g. Now I have three large tanks and several smaller. I bought a Python for the 90g and have never looked back. Aqueon also make them, and in my view they are better made; my Python faucet attachment had to be replaced 3 times, but the Aqueon is working fine after several years.
The faucet attachment lets you drain the tank or fill it by changing the valve. Squirt the conditioner into the tank when it starts to fill, and you are all set. Water conditioners work instantly to detoxify chlorine, chloramine, etc. I have been changing half the water in tanks like my 115g this way for 15 years and never had a fish loss or issue due to this method.
Thanks, that sounds like probably the easiest. The kitchen sink isn't too far away from where we would be placing it.