VerdantGrotto's Fresh-Water Habitat - Page 5 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #41 of 174 Old 12-27-2012, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VerdantGrotto View Post
Well when I tested the PH levels of both tanks last night they both registered at 7.8 ( I used the API Master Test Kit )

This is confusing me because I could have sworn that my PH level in the current 10 Gallon was at 7.0 ( Used Tetra Quick Test Strips )

I did a water change in the 10 Gallon Tuesday evening with Tap Water ( The same water source I used to fill the 55 Gallon )

If both of these levels are close to each other would it be ok to introduce the diamond Tetras tomorrow ?

Should I wait longer ? ( Tank was set up Sunday with Plants and the Clarity has improved Tremendously )

I've done two 20% water changes since Sunday and added the API Water Condition and Bacteria.
Api high range pH Kit? if not then the pH is actually much higher.


Again in planted tanks where the pH is high just because of the plants that is nothing to worry about.

Angels like water low in carbon dioxide just like other fish.

my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #42 of 174 Old 12-27-2012, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VerdantGrotto View Post
Well when I tested the PH levels of both tanks last night they both registered at 7.8 ( I used the API Master Test Kit )

This is confusing me because I could have sworn that my PH level in the current 10 Gallon was at 7.0 ( Used Tetra Quick Test Strips )

I did a water change in the 10 Gallon Tuesday evening with Tap Water ( The same water source I used to fill the 55 Gallon )

If both of these levels are close to each other would it be ok to introduce the diamond Tetras tomorrow ?

Should I wait longer ? ( Tank was set up Sunday with Plants and the Clarity has improved Tremendously )

I've done two 20% water changes since Sunday and added the API Water Condition and Bacteria.
It is usually better to let things do what they do when it comes to water chemistry rather than attempting to "fix it. Many factos are at work, and messing with one can cause real trouble. And chances are it will shift back anayway.

To get to the bottom of these pH numbers. What test kit, exactly? What is the pH of the tap water--remember to shake a sample briskly for several minutes to out-gas the CO2 before testing tap water? And what is the tank water pH?

Just so we see all numbers together.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #43 of 174 Old 12-27-2012, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
Quote:
Originally Posted by beaslbob View Post
Api high range pH Kit? if not then the pH is actually much higher.


Again in planted tanks where the pH is high just because of the plants that is nothing to worry about.

Angels like water low in carbon dioxide just like other fish.

my .02
Yeah, I used the High Range Kit. The PH was 8.4 at the beginning of the week. No fish are in it as of right now. I will test the water when I get home from work (Probably around 6pm CT
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post #44 of 174 Old 12-27-2012, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
Water Test Data

New 55 Gallon Water Results

PH = 8.0 ( up 0.2 points from last night , down 0.4 points from monday )

I used a dose of the PH down from API. Probably won't be using anymore of the stuff.
Not because of any quality issues, but due to advice received from the Forum.

AMMONIA = 0.25 ppm

NITRITE = 0.25 ppm to 0.50 ppm ( Color of sample could have been debated as to which it was closest )

NITRATE = 0 ppm


Established 10 Gallon

PH = 7.8 ( Tested last night at 7.8 as well )

AMMONIA = 0 to 0.25 ppm ( Leaning towards 0 )

NITRITE = 0 ppm

NITRATE = 5 to 10 ppm


Tap-Water Source

PH = 7.8

(Other tests not performed)


Water-Change Source

Could not obtain data due to lack of sample (It's purchased from the local grocery store which is closed at the moment)

This water source is Reverse-Osmosis and/or Distilled water. I recently purchased 5 gallon water jugs with handles. This works great and seems to be good water to use. (Will Cost $5 every water change)
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post #45 of 174 Old 12-27-2012, 10:49 PM
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Is there any particular reason you use that water as opposed to just good old dechlorinated tap water?

Do you Only you that water? As doesn't RO/DO water have a lot of minerals etc missing out of it that the FW fish require?

Sorrylots of questions. There hopefully relevant.
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post #46 of 174 Old 12-28-2012, 08:53 AM
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Looks like you have two planted tanks both with high pH.

IMHO there is a very highly technical term for that dasterly situation.

it's called:























normal


For pH what I do is measure the pH just before lights out. Especially in my marine tanks. The idea is that if that pH is high, the plants are consuming the carbon dioxide in the tank.

I double dog dare you to run for a couple of weeks with no water changes, just top off with untreated tap water.

But that's still just my.

.02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #47 of 174 Old 12-28-2012, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VerdantGrotto View Post
New 55 Gallon Water Results

PH = 8.0 ( up 0.2 points from last night , down 0.4 points from monday )

I used a dose of the PH down from API. Probably won't be using anymore of the stuff.
Not because of any quality issues, but due to advice received from the Forum.

AMMONIA = 0.25 ppm

NITRITE = 0.25 ppm to 0.50 ppm ( Color of sample could have been debated as to which it was closest )

NITRATE = 0 ppm


Established 10 Gallon

PH = 7.8 ( Tested last night at 7.8 as well )

AMMONIA = 0 to 0.25 ppm ( Leaning towards 0 )

NITRITE = 0 ppm

NITRATE = 5 to 10 ppm


Tap-Water Source

PH = 7.8

(Other tests not performed)


Water-Change Source

Could not obtain data due to lack of sample (It's purchased from the local grocery store which is closed at the moment)

This water source is Reverse-Osmosis and/or Distilled water. I recently purchased 5 gallon water jugs with handles. This works great and seems to be good water to use. (Will Cost $5 every water change)
I see nothing unusual in the pH numbers here.

Be careful with buying water, some of it is worse than tap water for minerals and TDS. As Nilet asked, is there a reason for this water being used?

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #48 of 174 Old 12-28-2012, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
The last Fish Forum I was involved in (Before I deleted my account due to Rude Members and Moderators) someone had stated that water produced Via Reverse Osmosis was a cleaner more pure way to do changes. There theory was that it was softer, had less minerals and chemicals such as Flourides , Chlorines , Chloramines , etc... It just seemed to me that if you used a quality water source instead of relying on a municipal water source it might prevent some sort of Catastrophic occurence and you could also maintain a steady set of water condition numbers.

I realize it might be a little overkill or OCD on my part but it works and it gives me an excuse to go to the Grocery Store (Which is right next to the Fish Store)
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post #49 of 174 Old 12-28-2012, 05:01 PM
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IME with "my" planted system any potable water is fine.

I also do no water changes so the initial quality of the water is not important.

my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #50 of 174 Old 12-28-2012, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
Quote:
Originally Posted by beaslbob View Post
Looks like you have two planted tanks both with high pH.

IMHO there is a very highly technical term for that dasterly situation.

it's called:

normal

For pH what I do is measure the pH just before lights out. Especially in my marine tanks. The idea is that if that pH is high, the plants are consuming the carbon dioxide in the tank.

I double dog dare you to run for a couple of weeks with no water changes, just top off with untreated tap water.

But that's still just my.

.02
LOL

I understand that this is normal due to the conditions and setup of the tank (Sand, plants, etc...)

The only thing that has me concerned is the fact that there are Cory Cats and Angels destined for this tank. Shouldn't they have a PH setup in the low 7 ' s ? If not the high 6 ' s ?
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