11-29-2009, 01:04 PM
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I looked at the links in someone else's algae invation thread, and it appears that I do have brown algea, which I can't seem to get rid of, but its not a big deal as it is in very conservative amounts. (I WOULD like to not have any tho! This algea is usually on the back wall of the aquarium, sometimes one of the sides.
I just recently (maybe 2 days ago) noticed GREEN algea covering my front glass. It appeared within a day or 2 and is really green. Its not too bad yet, but I don't want it becoming a big issue.
I would try the blackout for this green algea, but I have brown algea... this doesnt make sense to me since one likes low light and the other likes high light. I'm going to wipe it all off when I get home with a pwc.
I have 35w of light for a 29g tank, which stay on an avg of 9 hrs. Water params are good.
I do have the aquarium in my living room though, and there is a light fixture 4-5 feet away, but I linked that to having algea on the side closest to it (wasnt green algea) which barely comes back. There is always some sort of light in the living room for 18-20 hrs a day (aquarium lights fall into that range obviously)
12-28-2009, 04:18 PM
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I have one 24" 17w T8 8000k "all glass" bulb, and one 24" 18w (I believe) Eclipse Natural Daylight (5000k?).
I think I've read about battling the two, but its all from dif places, with different suggestions, and usualy not in ONE tank.
I do not see any more brown algea, thats good. I do have this green slime algea? It appears on my front glass within a week or so, and recently started to cover my gravel. It also appears that one or two of my plants started getting covered with dark (black) algea? One is pretty bad, and even fuzzy, so I figure it might be the beard algea?
My lights are usually on for ABOUT 8.5 hours, sometimes 10. They are also sometimes turned on at different times (2-3 hour dif), not sure if this has a negative effect. I was planning on getting a timer, but haven't found it very necessary yet, plus my laziness. There is some sort of light in the room for a lot longer, no direct sunlight ever though.
I perform a 5g water change once a week, (29g tank), and add Nutrafin Plant grow. The bottle is almost empty so I will try kent or seachem next if I can find it. The load here is 3 small angels, 4 platys.
Something is out of order if I am getting algea, I'd like to figure out WHAT... Is it the lighting schedule? The supplement? The fish load?
The fish seem happy, even though they try to eat my hand if its ever in the tank. The params are good, nitrates ~10ppm.
I'd like to completely eliminate the algea, its really starting to bother me (its not bad yet though).
The plants are growing, the cabomba especially. The bananas grow a new leaf and shed one or two off every two weeks I would say. They grew unbelievably long roots as well. All my other plants are growing fine, and have really rooted since I've had them.
Lets see what we can do!
12-28-2009, 04:34 PM
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Things seem good from what you've told us (lots of info, well done) so I'd surmise the green algae is too much light and/or too much light and nutrients. The plants will use the available nutrients if the light and carbon (CO2 from the fish) are sufficient to balance. If CO2 is the limiting factor, then the light and nutrients, or just the light, may be too much. And that's when algae slips in to use it. Algae has the advantage over most (but not all) plants of being able to easily assimilate carbon from carbonates as well as CO2. Most plants prefer the latter.
I would reduce the light by using a timer to have it on no more than 8 hours. One trick that works for some is to have a "siesta" mid-day. Lights on for 5 hours, off for 2, then on for 5-6. A timer can achieve this. Also, regular light period is better for the plants and fish. And plants need 10 hours of total darkness each night, so a timer is a good investment.
How often do you use the liquid fertilizer? If the plants are growing fine, you may be able to reduce fertilization. But I don't recommend this on its own, since the plants need the nutrients and if they are reduced below what will balance the light and CO2 then the plants won't be better and algae will have a further advantage.
The brown algae is common in new tanks, say 3-4 months. After that, it should not be back. Green is always with us. Is it really a "slime" in which case it is cyanobacteria (not a true algae), or just a green coating that scrapes off? The cyanobacteria easily comes off with your fingers and is definitely a slime. The algae usually takes some scraping and doesn't come off as slimy sheets.
12-28-2009, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mrdemin
The green comes right off the glass. If I take a really close look it looks like tiny little hairs. I will go see if I can find a timer somewhere local. As for the fert, I use it once a week after the pwc.
It does look like the brown algea has been non existant for at least 2-3 weeks now, but this black fuzzy stuff on one of the plants is scaring me, it looks like its black.
I will try the siesta and continue adding the supplement once a week (will probably switch brands though).
I took some pics, but I will try to get them up tonight, I just do not feel like resizing them now!
The green is regular algae, not cyanobacteria. Every tank has it, it will appear as a dot on the glass and then slowly spread. It's never caused me any problems, I use a scraper to remove it from the glass. But getting the balance set will make it less. Ferts are fine I would think, wouldn't change there, just reduce the light a bit.
The black is probably brush algae; it is actually "red" but it always looks black to me. The light especially if you do the siesta should take care of this. Also adding CO2 sometimes works, you can use Seachem's "Excel" which is a liquid carbon supplement that has got rid of brush algae for some on here. I prefer to just let it be, it is on the wood and when it attacks a plant leaf I remove the leaf if it's bad. It's always present but only once back in 1997 did I ever have it bad, and then I just worked on it and after a couple months it subsided.
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