Tank doesn't want to Cycle
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Tank doesn't want to Cycle

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Tank doesn't want to Cycle
Old 04-04-2014, 11:07 PM   #1
 
Tank doesn't want to Cycle

Hi, I am new to the hobby and have been doing a lot of reading and confirming what things i am questionable at all with a few specific people at the local pet stores that are big in the hobby already. My question comes from my 10 gallon tank being almost a month old I am doing a fishy cycle and i still have no Nitrites or Nitrates, my ammonia has already spiked to about 8 ppm 2 or 3 times and i did water changes each time to bring it down a little after like 2 days of it being that high or higher. I have 5+ fish in there i have 3 Mollies, 2 Zebra Danios, and my silver molly gave birth and 4 or 5 of the babyies are still around and are almost too big to be eaten. For anyone wondering the 3 Mollies were put in there first a few days after the tank was set up and at about 2.5 weeks in I put in the Zebra Danios. The Tank has very little Aquarium salt to help the fish, Some Stress Zyme+ for added Bacteria, and when i do water changes i use Prime as a water conditioner/dechlorinator, the tanks Temp sits at about 76-78 degrees and i have a thing releasing bubbles under the gravel. I have what looks like a clear film in the glass that i just leave alone since it gets more after i do a water change and add Stress Zyme+ so i figure it is bacteria on the glass which can't hurt i am thinking. Can anyone help me with this? or give me some insight on why i am not getting the cycle closer to being finished?

my profile has the info about my tank other then that.

O and for those who will say that the tank is over stocked, I plan on once i can afford it getting like a 30 gallon tank, Just don't have the cash atm
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Old 04-04-2014, 11:37 PM   #2
 
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Hi, I am new to the hobby and have been doing a lot of reading and confirming what things i am questionable at all with a few specific people at the local pet stores that are big in the hobby already. My question comes from my 10 gallon tank being almost a month old I am doing a fishy cycle and i still have no Nitrites or Nitrates, my ammonia has already spiked to about 8 ppm 2 or 3 times and i did water changes each time to bring it down a little after like 2 days of it being that high or higher. I have 5+ fish in there i have 3 Mollies, 2 Zebra Danios, and my silver molly gave birth and 4 or 5 of the babyies are still around and are almost too big to be eaten. For anyone wondering the 3 Mollies were put in there first a few days after the tank was set up and at about 2.5 weeks in I put in the Zebra Danios. The Tank has very little Aquarium salt to help the fish, Some Stress Zyme+ for added Bacteria, and when i do water changes i use Prime as a water conditioner/dechlorinator, the tanks Temp sits at about 76-78 degrees and i have a thing releasing bubbles under the gravel. I have what looks like a clear film in the glass that i just leave alone since it gets more after i do a water change and add Stress Zyme+ so i figure it is bacteria on the glass which can't hurt i am thinking. Can anyone help me with this? or give me some insight on why i am not getting the cycle closer to being finished?

my profile has the info about my tank other then that.

O and for those who will say that the tank is over stocked, I plan on once i can afford it getting like a 30 gallon tank, Just don't have the cash atm
o and one thing that i for got to say is that i have not had any fishy deaths
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Old 04-05-2014, 06:26 AM   #3
 
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I want to note that not only are you overstocked but zebra danios are shoaling fish and need groups of at least 5 to be happy.

As far as your cycle goes, ammonia over 5ppm will stall your cycle. What test kit are you using? We all recommend the API Liquid Test Kit. It's much more accurate than the test strips. You, doing a fish-in cycle, need to be doing water changes whenever the ammonia hits .50ppm, whenever you see nitrites or whenever you see over 20ppm of nitrates. Ammonia over .5 is dangerous to the fish, regardless if you've had deaths or not, the exposure will take its toll. If the cycle doesn't kill them, it will shorten their projected lifespan. I also recommend stopping the salt treatment - it's unnecessary. Adding a small bottle of Tetra Safe Start (the whole thing) will help you immensely.
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:24 AM   #4
 
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I want to note that not only are you overstocked but zebra danios are shoaling fish and need groups of at least 5 to be happy.

As far as your cycle goes, ammonia over 5ppm will stall your cycle. What test kit are you using? We all recommend the API Liquid Test Kit. It's much more accurate than the test strips. You, doing a fish-in cycle, need to be doing water changes whenever the ammonia hits .50ppm, whenever you see nitrites or whenever you see over 20ppm of nitrates. Ammonia over .5 is dangerous to the fish, regardless if you've had deaths or not, the exposure will take its toll. If the cycle doesn't kill them, it will shorten their projected lifespan. I also recommend stopping the salt treatment - it's unnecessary. Adding a small bottle of Tetra Safe Start (the whole thing) will help you immensely.
I am using the API Freshwater Master test kit and once i get a bigger tank i plan on getting more Zebra Danios, I actually want to get up to like 8 or 10 for there school and with the Mollies since a decent amount are surviving the eating process i think that i will probably have 7 or 8 in all once they grow, I also once i have a bigger tank plan on getting a breeding cage thing later and seeing if the pet stores around here will trade like x number of my young fish with like half of that number or less of the same type so that i can keep it from it being straight brother and sister breeding. I don't plan on getting that many more breeds at the moment, down the line i want to find a way to fit a couple angels in a bigger tank, some neon tetras and the glowing kind of tetras and some of the platys and sail fin mollies but that is about it. I want to make schools i just need more cash for the tanks heh and i can't get too big with the tanks because i live in a apartment on the second floor and am not sure if the floor could support much more then a 35 gallon but i could have multiple 30 gallons i am pretty sure just need to get them little by little.

Last edited by Cspencer83; 04-05-2014 at 09:26 AM..
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:33 AM   #5
 
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If you have females that have been in contact with males, you will have more broods. Even separating males from females, females can be bred once and have 8+ more broods from that one spawn. You are going to be overstocked in a 30 gal very quickly if you start saving fry. Angels tend to snack on Neons and by glowing tetras, I assume you mean glofish. These are injected with dye and tend not to live very long due to this. I would also say that 7-8 mollies is overstocked for a 30 gallon. I wouldn't put more than 5 along with the danios. What are your parameters today?
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:10 AM   #6
 
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If you have females that have been in contact with males, you will have more broods. Even separating males from females, females can be bred once and have 8+ more broods from that one spawn. You are going to be overstocked in a 30 gal very quickly if you start saving fry. Angels tend to snack on Neons and by glowing tetras, I assume you mean glofish. These are injected with dye and tend not to live very long due to this. I would also say that 7-8 mollies is overstocked for a 30 gallon. I wouldn't put more than 5 along with the danios. What are your parameters today?
well today is water change day because the ammonia levels got to 6 the ph is usually around 7.6 and nitrites and nitrates are 0

they have stayed alive pretty well but maybe i am doing it wrong i am doing about 25%-30% water changes every half an hour to let the temp of the water and everything get to where it is needed before the next till the ammonia levels get low each time poking at the gravel so it can get most of the stuff in it pretty good. I am up for better instructions on how to do this but there really isn't much on it from what i have seen just how much to do not how often they just say do back to back but that doesn't tell the time inbetween

Last edited by Cspencer83; 04-05-2014 at 10:14 AM..
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Old 04-05-2014, 02:05 PM   #7
 
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You could do a 50% water change and turn around and do another immediately after if you wanted to. There isn't enough bacteria in the water column to crash your cycle even with the biggest water change you can do (so long as you don't scrub your tank furnishings, substrate and filter, too.) You do, however, need to be doing at least 50% water changes whenever your ammonia hits .50ppm, nitrites hit anything over 0ppm and nitrates hit 20ppm, as I said in my post earlier. Even though your fish aren't showing adverse effects now, it is hurting them to be in water with such high ammonia levels.
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Old 04-05-2014, 05:36 PM   #8
 
Thanks for the info, I know from what i have read that Prime can mess with the testing, how long should i wait in your opinion before i test the water?
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:25 PM   #9
 
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It only works for 24 hours, I would imagine it wouldn't give false results after that. So just try to test at the same time every day.
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:18 PM   #10
 
tell me if your hang on back filter is too caked on the outside will that delay the cycling process? I cleaned it off in a bucket that had old tank water in it so it has a really nice flow instead of it being almost too caked to go through much (just looked earlier don't know why i didn't look at it before) then did 2 water changes to get the ammonia level down and am hoping for the best and could you tell me if this was the problem?

On another note could a really badly caked filter be the reason that my ammonia level was as bad as it was?

Last edited by Cspencer83; 04-08-2014 at 11:23 PM..
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