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Suggestions for stocking 55g tank?

This is a discussion on Suggestions for stocking 55g tank? within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Originally Posted by andrewr2488 For an aquarium top, Is this what ya'll were referring to? Of the two pictures I like the one on ...

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Suggestions for stocking 55g tank?
Old 10-03-2009, 12:35 PM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by andrewr2488 View Post
For an aquarium top, Is this what ya'll were referring to? Of the two pictures I like the one on the right which I assume is the acrylic one? It seems alot easier with just the finger hole and being that I can just cut it to my needs

I measured the lip part where the top would rest and its 46.75"x11.25". Should I just buy the one thats 48x12?
No photo with this, but I can respond anyway. No, the 48-inch will not work. As I mentioned, you have a brace in the centre, and the glass/acrylic cover has to sit down inside the frame on both sides, so you will get two covers in effect, one for each side; measure the individual sides (measure both; although the brace should be centered, make no assumptions...). Glass covers normally come with a narrow strip of plastic for the rear pane that can be cut out for filter, heater, etc.

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Old 10-03-2009, 12:40 PM   #42
 
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Yeah I got suckered into buying ANOTHER piece of Mopani, just because I'm planning to have quite a few schooling fish. Would any other tetra work with my water besides neon? I was thinking of glo-lite tetra, or black neon tetras? I went to petco today and I was looking for that "PRIME" stuff and failed to find it. would they carry it or do I need to look at an aquarium store for that? Oh, and it sucks I found an awesome deal on TWO rena xp3 canister filters, brand new on craigslist... 150 for both of them!! its so tempting! I love aquariums, its alot of fun planning them and then getting to relax and look at what you've created. I plan on having only this aquarium for about a year, and then I'm going to do another aquarium in my extra bedroom but it will be a marine aquarium. My Fiance and I are expecting right now and the marine aquarium I'm planning would be something similar to the nemo aquarium. I know its kinda corny in a way, but my nephew LOVES that movie and I'm sure my son/ daughter (We are not sure if its a boy or girl yet) will love it too. back to my amazon aquarium, can you show me what type of substrate your talking about (color, size) i have some in the bag thats kinda got mixed colors, like a tannish brown, with a darker brown, and a medium brown. each pebble is about the size of a thumbtack.
If you have amonia in your tap water, Prime is a good conditioner, or another brand but make sure it detoxifies chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. Some do not. Prime is reputable. Most fish stores now carry Seachem products, they make Prime.

Several tetyra species will work in your water. Glowlights and black neons, Pristella, Black Phantoms, some of the red Hyphessobrycon species...quite a few can be adapted to slightly basic/alkaline water with a pH around 7.6.

Marine tanks ar a very different ballgame from freshwater.

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Old 10-03-2009, 12:42 PM   #43
 
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I've been browsing the net and found this for a lighting fixture, what do ya'll think

Double-Tube Lighting Fixture
This is a good fixture, in my opinion. I bought two of these in July (my old ones gave out after 12 years). The tubes that come with them are terrible light and quite useless, just take them out and buy good tubes. I previously recommended Life-Glo 2 as the best, or Zoo Med's Ultra-Sun or Phillips Daylight Deluxe. All come in 48-inch length to fit this fixture.

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Old 10-03-2009, 04:39 PM   #44
 
To answer your question, All tetras get along well, sometimes the form schools with mixed Species. I also have a 29 Gallon tank and it has two clown loaches (Best to get as babies), 4 Tiger Barbs (The smaller the size the better), and two albino cory cats that only grow up to two inches that follow my loaches.

There is a combatibility Guide Located Here:
Freshwater & Brackish Compatibility Chart


Edit: Sorry thought this was on the first page.

Last edited by Zoo Maniac; 10-03-2009 at 04:41 PM..
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Old 10-03-2009, 05:05 PM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by andrewr2488 View Post
For an aquarium top, Is this what ya'll were referring to? Of the two pictures I like the one on the right which I assume is the acrylic one? It seems alot easier with just the finger hole and being that I can just cut it to my needs

I measured the lip part where the top would rest and its 46.75"x11.25". Should I just buy the one thats 48x12?
Sorry Byron, Forgot to add the link haha... Ok I measured the two sides and this is what I got.
23x11.75

Would the 24x12 work, then do some small trimming to make it fit right or should I call them to let them know my measurements and see what they can do to match them? Here is the link.

Based on my water testing, Will I need any additives, earlier ya'll suggested using "PRIME"

As far as lighting, I'm going to order the above listed fixture, what two lights would you recommend for optimum growth. I also saw something called seachem flourish, any opinions?
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Old 10-03-2009, 06:43 PM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by andrewr2488 View Post
Sorry Byron, Forgot to add the link haha... Ok I measured the two sides and this is what I got.
23x11.75

Would the 24x12 work, then do some small trimming to make it fit right or should I call them to let them know my measurements and see what they can do to match them? Here is the link.

Based on my water testing, Will I need any additives, earlier ya'll suggested using "PRIME"

As far as lighting, I'm going to order the above listed fixture, what two lights would you recommend for optimum growth. I also saw something called seachem flourish, any opinions?
1. Prime is a water conditioner, you use it when adding fresh tap water during the weekly partial water change (and obviously when you first fill the tank). It is the only water conditioner you need. For the weekly pwc, you add enough for the water you're adding, not for the whole tank; it will do no harm, but as it is not inexpensive no point in wasting it.

2. Cover: glass is not easy to "trim" if you're not a glass cutter and I don't know what the acrylic may be like to cut. If it were me, I would buy the cover from a reputable local fish store; it will be easier to return it if it doesn't fit. [Don't cut any openings until you're sure it does fit or they may not take it back.] The covers on the linked site appear to be quite specific to their tanks, and won't fit [unless you can cut them, but I wouldn't try]. I wold call 9or visit) the local store, tell them the type of tank and the measurements, see what they have.

3. Fluorescent tubes: You want full spectrum, around 6500K, 48-inch. There are three brands I have tried: Hagen/Nutrafin's Life-Glo 2, Zoo Med's Ultra Sun, and Phillips Daylight Deluxe. The first is the most expensive, the Zoo Med a bit less, and the Phillips the least expensive. All are at or near 6500K and are full spectrum. Tubes must be replaced every 12 months (both of them) because over time they quickly lose intensity to the point where they are not sufficient brightness for the plants (although they still "light" to our eyes).

4. Fertilizer: Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement for the Planted Aquarium is in my opinion one of the best liquid fertiolizers. Once a week (after the partial water change) at first; if after a few weeks the plant growth isn't good, twice a week. You have to experiment; the nutrients (fertilizer) have to be sufficient to balance the light and the CO2 from the fish. The light should be on for 8 hours minimum each day (use a timer, the same schedule is better for plants and fish). This can be extended a bit if the plants show signs of needing it. Everything has to balance, and the number of fish in the tank affects it as well, so it is something you just work out over a few weeks.

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Old 10-03-2009, 10:58 PM   #47
 
These two aquariums are kinda my goal, more so the 2nd one, I like the way his substrate looks.



In this picture, What are the small plants in the front that have only 3-5 long narrow leaves? and is that Cabomba in the middle rear section?

This is also a aquaria that I like, but not what I'm going for ATM.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...e_akvarium.jpg

PLANTS: I'm planning on growing the following plants

Amazon Sword (Echinodorus amazonicus)
Dwarf Sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata)
Dwarf Anubias (Anubias nana)
Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) Anchored
Dwarf Hygrophila (Hygrophila polysperma)
Stargrass (Heteranthera Zosterfolia) Possibly
Pygmy Chain Sword (Echinodorus tenellus)

I'm Still searching plants so my list may change but thats basically my idea, I might weed out a few of the non amazonian plants.

Please keep posted and continue with ya'lls helpful advice, This project of mine is moving along swimmingly due in a big part to ya'lls advice!! Everyones input is most def. appreciated and all the knowledge I've gained in the few weeks I've been on this site is amazing!! Keep the info coming!!

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Old 10-04-2009, 12:04 PM   #48
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewr2488 View Post
These two aquariums are kinda my goal, more so the 2nd one, I like the way his substrate looks.



In this picture, What are the small plants in the front that have only 3-5 long narrow leaves? and is that Cabomba in the middle rear section?

This is also a aquaria that I like, but not what I'm going for ATM.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...e_akvarium.jpg

PLANTS: I'm planning on growing the following plants

Amazon Sword (Echinodorus amazonicus)
Dwarf Sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata)
Dwarf Anubias (Anubias nana)
Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) Anchored
Dwarf Hygrophila (Hygrophila polysperma)
Stargrass (Heteranthera Zosterfolia) Possibly
Pygmy Chain Sword (Echinodorus tenellus)

I'm Still searching plants so my list may change but thats basically my idea, I might weed out a few of the non amazonian plants.

Please keep posted and continue with ya'lls helpful advice, This project of mine is moving along swimmingly due in a big part to ya'lls advice!! Everyones input is most def. appreciated and all the knowledge I've gained in the few weeks I've been on this site is amazing!! Keep the info coming!!
The main difference between the aquaria in these two photos is that the first requires CO2 diffusion and thus mega-light and daily fertilization to balance; the groundcover is very difficult to grow even with CO2 and heavy light intensity, as those who try it will attest. The second tank is along the lines we have been discussing.

The plant along the front is one of the pygmy chain swords, probably Echinodorus tenellus; the leaves appear narrower and shorter than another similar sword, E. quadricostatus. I have E. tenellus in my 90g and E. quadricostatus in my 115g.

The stem plant centre rear is not one of the Cabomba species; I'm not sure from the photo, but I would suggest either Myriophyllum aquaticum (milfoil) or Ceratophyllum demesum (Hornwort). I avoid both as they never do well in my tanks, probably insufficient light and CO2. When they fall apart they are very messy.

You can see even in this photo (not the best quality) how the dark substrate sets off the varied colours of the lants; the colourful shoaling fish in such an aquarium would sparkle. I prefer this sort of substrate to what I have now, though I'm not ready to change just yet.

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Old 10-04-2009, 05:29 PM   #49
 
Ok, I'm still soaking and boiling the mopani, its water is starting to look better, but I still have alot of things to buy before I can start making the gears turn. I've been contemplating fish also.

Emerald Green Cory (4)
Panda Cory (2-3)
Neon Tetra (7-8)
Black Neon Tetra (5-6)
If that is all I have room for thats all I'll get, But If those do good and I do have room for more I'm looking to get a few cichlids as well," non violent" of course
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Old 10-04-2009, 06:56 PM   #50
 
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Originally Posted by andrewr2488 View Post
Ok, I'm still soaking and boiling the mopani, its water is starting to look better, but I still have alot of things to buy before I can start making the gears turn. I've been contemplating fish also.

Emerald Green Cory (4)
Panda Cory (2-3)
Neon Tetra (7-8)
Black Neon Tetra (5-6)
If that is all I have room for thats all I'll get, But If those do good and I do have room for more I'm looking to get a few cichlids as well," non violent" of course
Your 50/55g has room for these and more--but not all at once or the beginning. Corydoras should preferably be in groups of minimum 3 of a species; while they will socialize with mixed species, given the opportunity they do prefer their own and are less stressed when they have 3+. The "emerald green" could either be Corydoras aeneus or Brochis splendens, a closely related genus to Corydoras. Photos below for info, C. aenus top photo, B. splendens lower; the Brochis gets much larger, 4+ inches, the C. aeneus 2 inches, so the Brochis has a bit more impact on the bioload, something to consider.

C. panda do not always settle in, especially to new tanks. Give the tank 3+ months after its biologically established and pandas will fare better. Same goes for any of the dwarf cichlids (which is what you'd be considering in such a setup). They are sensitive to water parameters and quality. Some also have higher temperature needs; not all "tropical fish' can co-exist in the same temperature range so this is something to check when researching fish.

Characins (any of the tetras) are always better in groups of minimum 6 but more where space is available. Seven or so of both neons and black neons would be fine. There are plenty of colourful tetras, research them before you buy "what's available". You could have small groups of several species in your tank.

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File Type: jpg Brochis splendens.jpg (26.1 KB, 27 views)
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