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Stocking Ideas for QT

3K views 19 replies 5 participants last post by  qpc68 
#1 ·
Hi y'all

The misses and I are considering upgrading our 1 gallon off/on QT for one of those 12 gallon Eclipse systems (bio-wheel filter/light built in). We just want to do some fake plants with this one along with lightly stocking it.

We currently have two shoals in our main tank, 6 neon/5 rummy nose tetras. We're considering moving the 6 neons over once the QT has cycled.

My question is basically a quest for ideas. If we decide not to go with the tetras, what are some other NON shoaling fish that would do well in that size tank and situation? I was considering a Bolivian Ram, and maybe a smaller catfish (Pictus?). Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?
 
#4 ·
Not correct, even if there are certainly people who can't resist putting fish into anything water. ;)

A QT should have low light, a strong filter, and good heating. Ideally it has no gravel at all or only a very thin layer of sand. If it has nothing at all, dark paper under the tank will prevent reflection. Some fake plants give the fish some feeling of security.

The reason of keeping it simple is that you may have to work with medication, chemical, heat etc. It is also vital that everything in the tank can be disinfected easily.
 
#5 ·
Most people use a QT tank for sick/injured fish or maybe prego fish, and yes for making sure fish are healthy before adding them to the main tank. But I believe stocking your QT would defeat the purpose.
 
#6 ·
Alrighty then...in that case, I have a cheap plastic one gallon "tank" with no filter and a cheap low wattage light. If i were to cycle the tank and put some form of heater/filtration in it would this be sufficient? My largest fish will grow to about 5 inches in length. If so, what kind of filtration would you recommend?
 
#7 ·
Sufficient? Yes, with the abovementioned equipment definitely.

Filter: Doesn't really matter as long as the filter can use activated carbon cartridges of some sort. In case of a QT tank, carbon really helps to get toxins and medication out of the water quickly if necessary. The filter should not creat too much current, as sick fish should not be stressed/exhausted in any way.

Heating: The heater should be able to increase heat by at least 1 degree/h for heat therapy. If you tank is not huge, it does not have to be super strong.

Total darkness (which fish rarely "see" in nature) may stress out sick fish. A moonlight (cheaply available from your LFS) can help.
 
#8 ·
at the risk of being different I keep two or three molly's in my 10 gal quarantine tank with a filter(,carbon) heater, upturned clay pot and approx one inch of gravel. When I need to put new or sick fish in it I simply take the molly's out and move them. They help keep the bacteria alive needed in all tanks. Could I use fish food instead? yes. My Fish, my tank, my choice.
 
#9 ·
My concern was the bacteria, but I assumed since I was so passionately told that keeping fish in a QT was a no-no and that the bacteria would be fine without anything to generate any waste. So this is incorrect, right? If there were zero fish in the QT than I would need to continuously add something to the water to simulate their being actual life for the bacteria to stay alive. Is that accurate?
 
#12 ·
Well this cowgirl doesn't stock a QT tank 8) Kinda defeats the purpose.

Jeez, your quick to blame other members of this forum for your bad advice, but your also quick to ask for our help.

Peace :wink:
 
#13 ·
qpc68 said:
My concern was the bacteria, but I assumed since I was so passionately told that keeping fish in a QT was a no-no and that the bacteria would be fine without anything to generate any waste. So this is incorrect, right? If there were zero fish in the QT than I would need to continuously add something to the water to simulate their being actual life for the bacteria to stay alive. Is that accurate?
Look, you do *not* need any bacteria in your QT tank. The filter is for brutal mechanical and chemical cleaning. You don't even need the tank to be running all the time. For short term treatment and quarantine, there are excellent products out there which can keep your water healthy for a while (Cycle, Safe Start, Bio Spira etc.). If you don't trust them, you can always take water/filter material from your maintenance tank.
 
#14 ·
IMHO water parameters, and temp in hospital tank or quarantine tank should be as close to the same as tank that sick fish are coming out of or new fish are going into as you can make it . Some chemicals skew water test results.None of them in my view will create safe water conditions quickly. some perhaps not at all. When one has a sick fish the last thing they want to do is wait to set up a quarantine tank. The suggestion of using water and filters from ones primary tank or tanks is a good one. I however find it easier to just maintain the quarantine or hospital tank just as I do the other tanks. Some injurys or illneses demand immediate action. I fell comforted knowing that I have a place at the ready . :)
 
#15 ·
Well yes, but keep in mind that most QT tanks are quite small, which means that it is really hard to have stable water conditions, let alone the same as in another tank. So, for short term treatment, it may be the simplest solution to fill the clean empty tank with water directly from the tank and use filter material if deemed necessary.

The aforementioned water conditioners contain not only chems but also bacteria/spores to get rid of ammonia and nitrite. They definitely work - not forever, but for a while.
 
#16 ·
That is what I love about this forum MEASURED OPINIONS . Even a rubbermaid tub can serve as a quarantine tank. All that is neede is a sponge filter and a heater. Small tanks are harder to manage water quality than larger ones to be sure but with dedication to the fish it is manageable. The water parameters in my ten gal. quarantine are same as my others with the exception of discus tank that has a very large piece of driftwood in it and therefore the PH is somewhat lower . Nothing I believe could be more stressful to sick or injured fish than to be removed from their quarters and plopped into a tank with wildly different parameters or temp. One needs to keep in mind that quarantine should in my view be at least ten days. :)
 
#17 ·
PDX
That's more or less what I've been doing. Filling up the little 1 gallon with tank water and replacing it every few days. If this is sufficient, which judging by your posts it is, than that's what I'll likely keep doing. Easier on the pocket book.

Thanks for your help
 
#18 ·
Little-Fizz said:
Well this cowgirl doesn't stock a QT tank 8) Kinda defeats the purpose.

Jeez, your quick to blame other members of this forum for your bad advice, but your also quick to ask for our help.

Peace :wink:
I don't know where I've blamed others for my (?) bad advice, but whatever floats your boat kiddo. If you're referring to my suggestions in another thread about ways to eliminate snails... http://www.fishforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=19356&highlight= there's the thread. All the advice I gave the other poster was advice given to me by other, more experienced fish keepers. Just passing on the message ya know? If this advice is bad than it appears lots of people are doing the wrong thing huh?
I'm pretty new to this whole game so I would think I would ask for help...isn't that what this forum is designed for? I don't think I've shown any ingratitude to those who have given me advice....If I'm mistaken I'd be more than happy to see you show me where I did.
If questioning the status quo means I'm ungrateful, so be it. But I've not once been rude to anyone who has helped me out.
 
#19 ·
Look, you do *not* need any bacteria in your QT tank. The filter is for brutal mechanical and chemical cleaning.
Well, I'm not totally in agreement with that statement. Mostly because chemical filtration must be removed in order to properly medicate a tank. Mechanical filtration alone is not enough. On the other hand, many medications can destroy the bacteria in your tank.

It's a give and take, and there's not one correct way to do things when it comes to QT's. Daily water monitoring and frequent water changes is the most important thing for keeping up water quality in a QT tank.
 
#20 ·
Sounds like the whole thing is more or less a crap shoot. Then again, I suppose in a lot of ways purchasing new fish is, especially if you live in an area like me with very few decent LFS's. Thanks for all your help guys, I think I know what I'm going to do. Either it will work or it won't. :D
 
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