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Stocking 25 gal planted tank

This is a discussion on Stocking 25 gal planted tank within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Commenting first on the initial fish list (post #1), there are several serious issues that prevent these fish from being in the same tank. ...

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Stocking 25 gal planted tank
Old 07-13-2012, 02:40 PM   #11
 
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Commenting first on the initial fish list (post #1), there are several serious issues that prevent these fish from being in the same tank. Subsequent posts have considered the behaviour of a couple of the fish, but there are also different temperature requirements. I recommend you check our profiles, second tab from the left in the blue bar across the top of the page; each species mentioned is included, with data on water params, tank size, number for the group if shoaling fish, and temperament/compatibility issues if any. You willnote that some fish names shaded in earlier posts; that means the name is the same as we used in the profile and you can click on the shaded name for that fish's profile. Example, Neon Tetra.

The Betta will be much better in the 2.5g alone. This is not a community fish. Aside from the Betta likely viewing some of the others as food, in reverse some of the tetra will see the Betta's fins are targets for nipping. Characins (tetra, etc) have lots of teeth, and like to use them.

And while a divider in the tank may seem an option, it is not. First, this reduces the space for the other fish which is going to severely limit stocking options. Second, the Betta is still "in the water" and that means it is releasing pheromones and allomones that the other fish read, and they are doing the same; result is stressed fish notwithstanding the divider.

I would not myself suggest rams for this small (25g) a tank. While a pair will manage fine in a 20g the other fish have to be carefully selected. When they spawn, all cichlids are territorial, and females can easily and readily kill "nosy parkers." Dither fish (the term we use for tankmates with dwarf cichlids) have to be specific. If you goal is a nice peaceful and colourful aquarium, avoid cichlids, Betta and most other Anabantids (gourami). Small colourful fish will provide more interest.

In the water parameters, you mention KH but not GH (General hardness), this is an important value; you can likely find it from the water supply folks, they may have a website.

Byron.
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Old 07-13-2012, 04:13 PM   #12
 
Hello Byron, Thanks a lot for taking time for an informative post. I do agree the divider may not be a great idea and I have expressed my doubts in my previous post. So not going for betta or ADF. May be, I try betta in that 2.5 gal, but I still would like to keep a hospital tank. Will try to get a better, somewhat bigger tank later...
As for rams, I did some search after my daughter expressed interest in getting them. I understand, my tank will be OK with a pair of those, but may not want them spawing :( We still have only rasboras (7) and tetras (5). Going to get some cardinals today. I have testing strips for water params. Will let know GH....
If not rams, what other type will you recommend. Some what bigger, non schooling,... Don't want all small and schooling...
Thanks

RG
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:20 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by rameshg View Post
Hello Byron, Thanks a lot for taking time for an informative post. I do agree the divider may not be a great idea and I have expressed my doubts in my previous post. So not going for betta or ADF. May be, I try betta in that 2.5 gal, but I still would like to keep a hospital tank. Will try to get a better, somewhat bigger tank later...
As for rams, I did some search after my daughter expressed interest in getting them. I understand, my tank will be OK with a pair of those, but may not want them spawing :( We still have only rasboras (7) and tetras (5). Going to get some cardinals today. I have testing strips for water params. Will let know GH....
If not rams, what other type will you recommend. Some what bigger, non schooling,... Don't want all small and schooling...
Thanks

RG
A single Bolivian Ram should work. But not 2, whether a pair or not. Another option is about the only recommendable gourami and that is the Honey Gourami. A trio would be nice. Check these profiles. As long as the GH is not excessively hard, these will manage in most water.
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:16 PM   #14
 
We have a couple of Chocolate Gourami in a twenty long community tank. They are well behaved.
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:58 PM   #15
 
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We have a couple of Chocolate Gourami in a twenty long community tank. They are well behaved.
I hesitate to suggest these in circumstances like the present. The profile explains why.
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:23 AM   #16
 
The GH numbers are ~150 ppm (I am sorry I mistyped as KH in my orginal post). The actual KH values: 40-80 ppm. pH 6.5-7.0
ammonia 0 ppm

Now, when I measured for GH yesterday, I was alarmed my nitrite was ~3 ppm I mean I have had nitrite and ammonia at 0 ppm for a long time. Admittedly, I have not done water params test in 2-3 weeks. My nitrate is at 20 ppm and I do dose nitrate as per PPS method, only alternate days. So why this (sudden) increase in nitrites??

BTW, about 2 days ago I took some of this tank water, during water change, and put it in my 2.5 gal tank as I going to quarantine my new fish (cardinal tetras 5). The nitrite level in that water is close to 0 ppm!

Only other thing I did to my main tank at water change:
I put about 10 gelatin capsules full of Osmocote Plus. Also, I did some very minor replanting: shifted a small amazon sworda few inches to give more light. And I planted most of anacharis, which were floating since purchase (~3 wks) at a corner.
Other than that, yesterday I dosed Fluorish Comprehensive (lower dose ~1 mL) and Fluorish iron (again ~1 mL), in addition to my usual PPS dosing (potassium, nitrate, phosphate). That too, I dose them lower than recommeded for my tank.

I did 20% water change this morning. Not much change in nitrite level, understandably. Will do another 20% tomorrow morning. In all this, my fish are doing OK, apparently. Even my cardinal tetras.

Is there something in that would lead to give false nitrite level? I plan to do some tests separately, combing various ferts solutions I used - PPS solution, Flourish Comp, Fluorish etc - at different combinations and see if there's any effect. I ran out of test strips, so will have to wait.

Thanks all...
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:08 AM   #17
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rameshg View Post
The GH numbers are ~150 ppm (I am sorry I mistyped as KH in my orginal post). The actual KH values: 40-80 ppm. pH 6.5-7.0
ammonia 0 ppm

Now, when I measured for GH yesterday, I was alarmed my nitrite was ~3 ppm I mean I have had nitrite and ammonia at 0 ppm for a long time. Admittedly, I have not done water params test in 2-3 weeks. My nitrate is at 20 ppm and I do dose nitrate as per PPS method, only alternate days. So why this (sudden) increase in nitrites??

BTW, about 2 days ago I took some of this tank water, during water change, and put it in my 2.5 gal tank as I going to quarantine my new fish (cardinal tetras 5). The nitrite level in that water is close to 0 ppm!

Only other thing I did to my main tank at water change:
I put about 10 gelatin capsules full of Osmocote Plus. Also, I did some very minor replanting: shifted a small amazon sworda few inches to give more light. And I planted most of anacharis, which were floating since purchase (~3 wks) at a corner.
Other than that, yesterday I dosed Fluorish Comprehensive (lower dose ~1 mL) and Fluorish iron (again ~1 mL), in addition to my usual PPS dosing (potassium, nitrate, phosphate). That too, I dose them lower than recommeded for my tank.

I did 20% water change this morning. Not much change in nitrite level, understandably. Will do another 20% tomorrow morning. In all this, my fish are doing OK, apparently. Even my cardinal tetras.

Is there something in that would lead to give false nitrite level? I plan to do some tests separately, combing various ferts solutions I used - PPS solution, Flourish Comp, Fluorish etc - at different combinations and see if there's any effect. I ran out of test strips, so will have to wait.

Thanks all...
On the hardness, 150ppm equates to 8 dGH, so that is soft water. No issues there. The KH is not high, so the pH should remain on the acidic side, and that's good too.

To the nitrite. There are several factors that can cause nitrite in an aquarium, not related to the nitrification cycle per say, and i don't begin to understand them. But I am wondering why you are dosing so many nutrients? Are you adding CO2 by diffusion?

If there is no CO2, then you should not be using any nutrient fertilizers beyond a basic like Flourish Comprehensive. This has all the nutrients and in proportion, and is intended for "natural" or low-tech setups. Iron is not needed, and this can cause other issues. It is also toxic to fish, plants and bacteria. I am not familiar with the substrate Osmocote product, but as this is primarily a terrestrial plant food I would be very careful with possible overdosing. Something in this could be causing nitrite, I don't know.
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Old 07-14-2012, 02:18 PM   #18
 
Thanks for the response. I won't do iron then. Even as such I dose irregularly, may be every other day at best. Some of my plants show yellowing. Hence my resort to substrate ferts. A colleague of my fine has had great success with Osmocote in a low tech planted tank. And I researched on the net and there were many others who've had positive results as well. May I should slow down on these. Thanks again.
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:38 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by rameshg View Post
Thanks for the response. I won't do iron then. Even as such I dose irregularly, may be every other day at best. Some of my plants show yellowing. Hence my resort to substrate ferts. A colleague of my fine has had great success with Osmocote in a low tech planted tank. And I researched on the net and there were many others who've had positive results as well. May I should slow down on these. Thanks again.

One of our members, 1077, uses the Osmocote with good results, so he might have some comments on this. My caution is that there is a lot of varying fertilizers entering the system, and these can interact.

Iron is certainly not needed beyond what you will have with Flourish Comprehensive. Yellowing leaves is frequently assumed to be iron deficiency, but there can be other deficiencies causing it--and sometimes a deficiency of one nutrient can be the result of an excess of another.

And lack of sufficient light intensity can cause yellowing too; going back to post #1 it mentions two 24-inch T5 tubes so lack of light is not the issue.

Can you post photos of the plants with the issues? I might see something.

Byron.
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:05 PM   #20
 
I trimmed the yellowed leaves a couple of days ago, when I buried the Osmocote capsules. I shall post photos if the problem comes-up again. Another thought is the amazon sword which showed more yellow and it's been in the tank for about 506 wks. May be it's still getting used the plant? I would understand that might be if old leaves yellow, but there are some young ones too...
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