Starting my New 55g Tomorrow!!!
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Starting my New 55g Tomorrow!!!

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Starting my New 55g Tomorrow!!!
Old 06-07-2010, 02:52 PM   #1
 
Starting my New 55g Tomorrow!!!

Ok, well i finally upgraded from my 10g to a 55g tank. Im setting up everything tomorrow (thats when the stand arrives at my house).

Items i got so far......

55g tank
Top Fin double sideds power filter
200w heater
Therometer
2 hoods with floresent bulbs
Play sand (substate)
several items of decor (big rocks, live plants, smooth pond rocks, other misc items...
2 air pumps with control valves and 2 air stones
Tank vaccume
Food
API stress and de chlorine
and some other stuff i cant think of right now.

Im going to be stocking mainly chiclids, right now i have 1 blood parrot, 1 yellow chiclid 1 pleco and 1 goldfish (been there from the beginning, lol).

Any input on other equipment i might need, and maybe input on some fish???
I know im wanting some kind of fish that burrows, so i dont have the gas pockets in the sand ive heard about forming.


Thanks.
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Old 06-07-2010, 03:00 PM   #2
 
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Dont think the goldfish is going to be a good idea, they like very different water then anything else
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Old 06-07-2010, 03:09 PM   #3
 
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Dont think the goldfish is going to be a good idea, they like very different water then anything else
Ya, i know all about the goldfish, but he has been with me for a while now, and doesnt seem to mind it.
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Old 06-07-2010, 03:35 PM   #4
 
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oh ok cool
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:12 AM   #5
 
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I would be hesistant on keeping goldfish with cichlids. Things may be hunky-dorey right now, but that doens't mean disaster is lurking around the corner.

For one, gold fish enjoy cooler water than the cichlids and the pleco, as well as the parrot fish.

Chiclids should mostly be kept with other cichlids, there are a few execeptions to that...the bolivian ram is one that can be kept with community fish, as well as kribensis fish can also be kept with community fish, i had them in my 55G at one point. The different water parameters demanded by the different species of fish you are keeping right now is probably adding more stress to them than you might realize.

If I were you, I'd like about making one of your tank a cichlid tank and keeping the other one more of a community setting. You're goldfish may need a tank all on it's own, the colder water needed by a goldfish may be too much stress for the other fish to bear, and might ultimately lead to their death.

The other thing I just wanted to comment on was the "burrowing fish" you wish to keep. i understand wanting to keep the gaseous pockets out of your tank, but the burrowing fish will end up rooting your plants you said you plan on keeping, if you don't mind rerooting plants all the time, then this'll be fine, just something to keep in mind.....

You will also wanted to comment on was the airstones and air pumps in a planted tank. You may want to reconsider adding anything that'll create surface tension breaks.....I would reccomend possibly a canister filter instead of a HOB filter which will also cut down on the surface aggitation.....this is all of couse if you still decide to go with a planted tank.


Johnny
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:02 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by JohnnyD44 View Post
I would be hesistant on keeping goldfish with cichlids. Things may be hunky-dorey right now, but that doens't mean disaster is lurking around the corner.

For one, gold fish enjoy cooler water than the cichlids and the pleco, as well as the parrot fish.

Chiclids should mostly be kept with other cichlids, there are a few execeptions to that...the bolivian ram is one that can be kept with community fish, as well as kribensis fish can also be kept with community fish, i had them in my 55G at one point. The different water parameters demanded by the different species of fish you are keeping right now is probably adding more stress to them than you might realize.

If I were you, I'd like about making one of your tank a cichlid tank and keeping the other one more of a community setting. You're goldfish may need a tank all on it's own, the colder water needed by a goldfish may be too much stress for the other fish to bear, and might ultimately lead to their death.

The other thing I just wanted to comment on was the "burrowing fish" you wish to keep. i understand wanting to keep the gaseous pockets out of your tank, but the burrowing fish will end up rooting your plants you said you plan on keeping, if you don't mind rerooting plants all the time, then this'll be fine, just something to keep in mind.....

You will also wanted to comment on was the airstones and air pumps in a planted tank. You may want to reconsider adding anything that'll create surface tension breaks.....I would reccomend possibly a canister filter instead of a HOB filter which will also cut down on the surface aggitation.....this is all of couse if you still decide to go with a planted tank.


Johnny
So wil the plants make enough o2 for all the fish, and not need the air stones?
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:28 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by jonny steele View Post
So wil the plants make enough o2 for all the fish, and not need the air stones?
Yes, if all is balanced. This is true of any aquarium--there has to be a balance between fish and water volume; but the benefit of plants (beyond their aesthetic quality) is creating a better balance naturally rather than with gadgets. A naturally balanced aquarium will look after itself to some extent, provided the aquarist provides the necessary maintenance as required for any aquarium. But there has to be a balance between fish load and plants and water volume.

Water movement via airstones, wands, excessive filtration etc. is detrimental to plant growth. I explain this in Part 3 of the series on setting up a natural planted aquarium at the head of the aquarium plants section, here's a link:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...um-part-34858/

Byron.
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:10 AM   #8
 
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Yes, if all is balanced. This is true of any aquarium--there has to be a balance between fish and water volume; but the benefit of plants (beyond their aesthetic quality) is creating a better balance naturally rather than with gadgets. A naturally balanced aquarium will look after itself to some extent, provided the aquarist provides the necessary maintenance as required for any aquarium. But there has to be a balance between fish load and plants and water volume.

Water movement via airstones, wands, excessive filtration etc. is detrimental to plant growth. I explain this in Part 3 of the series on setting up a natural planted aquarium at the head of the aquarium plants section, here's a link:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...um-part-34858/

Byron.
So, me having a 55g, how many plants would you rec? Im using sand, so if you could also rec types of plants, maybe something i can get at my local petstore, petsmart, petco....
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:40 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by jonny steele View Post
So, me having a 55g, how many plants would you rec? Im using sand, so if you could also rec types of plants, maybe something i can get at my local petstore, petsmart, petco....
As you seem to be thinking of medium-large cichlids, I would go with sturdy plants. Swords (Echinodorus species), esp the larger ones like E. bleherae which is almost always available at stores labeled as "amazon sword" or something similar; Anubias and Java Fern are tough, and both need to be attached to rock or wood, not planted in the substrate. I would avoid the stem plants as they are "fragile" and easily pulled up and cichlids might well find them tasty, plus they are messy when they fall apart.

In a 4-foot 55g, three of the E. bleherae (they will grow to the tank, by which I mean up to the surface and spread out about a foot each in time) and several plants of the Java Fern and a couple Anubias. JF is quite common, Anubias less so. JF produce daughter plants from the leaves, so you will have new plants down the road. Echinodorus send out flower spikes (inflorescences) once or twice a year and underwater daughter plants rather than flowers emerge. You can see this effect in the latest photo of my 115g, attached; the three large plants along the back are this species, and the numerous inflorescences with dozens of daughter plants developed this Spring.

Byron.
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:08 AM   #10
 
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As you seem to be thinking of medium-large cichlids, I would go with sturdy plants. Swords (Echinodorus species), esp the larger ones like E. bleherae which is almost always available at stores labeled as "amazon sword" or something similar; Anubias and Java Fern are tough, and both need to be attached to rock or wood, not planted in the substrate. I would avoid the stem plants as they are "fragile" and easily pulled up and cichlids might well find them tasty, plus they are messy when they fall apart.

In a 4-foot 55g, three of the E. bleherae (they will grow to the tank, by which I mean up to the surface and spread out about a foot each in time) and several plants of the Java Fern and a couple Anubias. JF is quite common, Anubias less so. JF produce daughter plants from the leaves, so you will have new plants down the road. Echinodorus send out flower spikes (inflorescences) once or twice a year and underwater daughter plants rather than flowers emerge. You can see this effect in the latest photo of my 115g, attached; the three large plants along the back are this species, and the numerous inflorescences with dozens of daughter plants developed this Spring.

Byron.
Damn, thats a lot of plant life in there, lol. Thanks for the input. Another question, should i keep my filter intake tube close to the bottom of the tank, or up higher, afraid it might intake the sand.
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