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South American Tank

This is a discussion on South American Tank within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Originally Posted by tinytetra Any thoughts on what order best to add the proposed fish? I am eager to get some Corys (love those ...

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Old 01-24-2013, 12:58 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by tinytetra View Post
Any thoughts on what order best to add the proposed fish? I am eager to get some Corys (love those little guys) but I understand it's better to add bottom dwellers later as this is where more of the toxins accumulate if there are any present - is this true or just a rumour?
It has to do more with the fish species. New tanks usually take 2-3 months to settled, and will continue becoming what we can call truly established during the subsequent months.

Corys are highly sensitive to fluctuating water conditions plus they do not tolerate ammonia or nitrite at all well. This is why they are generally best added later rather than in a new setup. However, live plants (of which you have many) does enter into this, and you have some fish in now (the neons mentioned).

I would first increase the neons, assuming you have not yet done this, up to the intended total. Then I would add the rummys (together, always add the entire species group together). Then the corys. Then the Bolivian(s), hatchetfish, etc., whatever is planned.

Do you have a small tank to quarantine new fish? There was a time when I never did this, for more than 15 years in fact, and only a couple times had to deal with ich which was then easy to deal with. But times have changed. Protozoan are much more common in fish these days, and I have nearly wiped out two tanks during the past few months so I now QT all new fish, regardless.

Byron.
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:27 PM   #12
 
Awesome, thanks! Currently have 8 new Neons in quarantine (to bring the total to 15) - how long is recommended to wait before adding them to the main tank, assuming they show no signs of illness?

Also had a major plant trim to get rid of dead leaves left over from shipping, have noticed some new leaves (particularly on the pygmy swords) are quite pale, almost yellow? Any one have any idea what the deficiency may be or is this normal and they'll darken as they age? I dose flourish 2x weekly, lights are 2x T8s (1x 6700K, 1x 18000K) and are on 10 hours a day.

Thanks!
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:33 PM   #13
 
a photo to illustrate (please excuse the ick, its vac-day) -



Are they pale or am I being paranoid
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:58 PM   #14
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Pull them out of the sand a bit until only the roots are under. Planting them too deep will hinder the leaf development and can cause them to rot below the surface of the sand... I did the same with my little guys and it has made the difference between wondering if they were going to make it (constant dead leaves outpacing the new stuff, not much of it) and no dead leaves and new growth.

Here is a sort of before and after shot. It doesn't look like much of a difference in depth but every little bit helps. My yellow is mainly due to the stained water. This may not be your particular issue with the leaves but it certainly can help long run. Oh, the before is just after a pruning so the leaves look good, but they weren't all that way before the shot.

My leaves would turn yellow and translucent then brown and I would have to pare them.

Jeff.
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:48 PM   #15
 
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Awesome, thanks! Currently have 8 new Neons in quarantine (to bring the total to 15) - how long is recommended to wait before adding them to the main tank, assuming they show no signs of illness?
Three weeks is minimum, and 4 wouldn't hurt. I always do 3 then carefully observe them for a while. Depending where I got them, I may move them at this stage, or I may leave them another week or two. Easy things like ich occur usually within 2 weeks. But the even more serious issues like internal protozoan can take longer. If any of them die, do not move the others but wait and determine the cause.

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Also had a major plant trim to get rid of dead leaves left over from shipping, have noticed some new leaves (particularly on the pygmy swords) are quite pale, almost yellow? Any one have any idea what the deficiency may be or is this normal and they'll darken as they age? I dose flourish 2x weekly, lights are 2x T8s (1x 6700K, 1x 18000K) and are on 10 hours a day.
Jeff responded to this, but one other thing occurs to me. Earlier the GH was given as 8, is this in degrees (dGH) or ppm?
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:01 PM   #16
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Earlier the GH was given as 8, is this in degrees (dGH) or ppm?
dGH, 8 is good.

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Also had a major plant trim to get rid of dead leaves left over from shipping, have noticed some new leaves (particularly on the pygmy swords) are quite pale, almost yellow?
Also, though I am not sure of the accuracy of this, plants can draw nutrients out of the old leaves. These plants shed outer leaves and grow new from the centre normally so leaving the outer leaves until they are almost ready to fall off can be beneficial to the plant. Whether true or not, it makes sense and appears to be accurate based on what I am seeing with my regular swords. I am choosing to leave them until the bitter end and think that cutting too early could be detrimental to the plant growth.

Jeff.

Last edited by JDM; 01-31-2013 at 08:10 PM..
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:20 PM   #17
 
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Also, though I am not sure of the accuracy of this, plants can draw nutrients out of the old leaves. These plants shed outer leaves and grow new from the centre normally so leaving the outer leaves until they are almost ready to fall off can be beneficial to the plant. Whether true or not, it makes sense and appears to be accurate based on what I am seeing with my regular swords. I am choosing to leave them until the bitter end and think that cutting too early could be detrimental to the plant growth.
Yes, this is true, about the mobile nutrients. I don't like seeing yellowing leaves so provided the plants has a decent leaf number I usually tug off the decaying leaves from the chain sword and pygmy chain sword during the water change.

Mobile nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, and molybdenum.

Byron.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:33 PM   #18
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Yes, this is true, about the mobile nutrients. I don't like seeing yellowing leaves so provided the plants has a decent leaf number I usually tug off the decaying leaves from the chain sword and pygmy chain sword during the water change.

Mobile nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, and molybdenum.

Byron.
OK, good to know I was on the right track. Given my own way I would leave them till they dropped and then some. I see that the catfish are looking for stuff to get underneath and leaf litter form the regular swords would be a good start... others in the house don't like the dead look though.

Jeff.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:36 PM   #19
 
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@JDM

What about adding oak leaves? My kuhli loaches love it.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:45 PM   #20
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@JDM

What about adding oak leaves? My kuhli loaches love it.
Winter makes that hard up here... I did see someone who has a small oak in their yard that still has some leaves on it though. I wonder if they would mind if I took a few.

Thanks for the reminder.

Jeff.
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