setting up an amazon biotope/habitat aquarium - Page 13 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #121 of 165 Old 06-13-2012, 12:26 PM
Member
 
Byron's Avatar
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pandamonium View Post
ok i see. i just looked up my water quality report. the most recent one was from 2010 so not too recent now i guess. im ordering a test kit online (the freshwater master test kit by API as well as the GH KH kit by them too). ill order tomorrow and test when i get it.
as of 2010, the water quality was
TDS average: 95ppm, range of 27-174ppm
hardness (CaCO3) average: 53ppm, range of 8-104ppm
alkalinity (CaCO3) average: 49ppm, range of 8-98ppm
pH average: 8.5, range of 8.2-8.7
calcium average: 12ppm, range of 2-26ppm
magnesium average: 4.6ppm, range of 0.3-9ppm

from these numbers and your sticky, i guess that my water is soft? but yet it has a high pH. ill have real number within a week hopefully.
in the meantime, i was wondering. i have a few rams in the tank and they all get along. there are not many dither fish so they hide a lot but forage when the aquarium lights go out but my room lights are still on. some rams are larger than others. eventually, will they all reach the same size? or will some be stunted?
From those numbers, yes, you have soft water. They are probably adding something to raise the pH, this is not unheard of. But with a low KH the pH should tend to lower (test the tank pH with your new test kit), and you could assist this by diluting the water with pure water. Rainwater works, if it is safe to use where you live. Or distilled water or Reverse Osmosis water.

I can't say on the ram size, there are many factors.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
Byron is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #122 of 165 Old 06-13-2012, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron View Post
From those numbers, yes, you have soft water. They are probably adding something to raise the pH, this is not unheard of. But with a low KH the pH should tend to lower (test the tank pH with your new test kit), and you could assist this by diluting the water with pure water. Rainwater works, if it is safe to use where you live. Or distilled water or Reverse Osmosis water.

I can't say on the ram size, there are many factors.
i just ordered the test kits and all other aquarium stuff. also i just removed my carbon filter and dosed some fertilizers for my plants. im using the flourish comprehensive. i put in about 3 mL for a 40 gallon tank. i think i will start by dosing once per week and seeing how that goes. then doing it twice per week. frogbit roots are getting long, and i like the look of it. if i ever need to trim them, do i just break off a part of the roots and throw them away?
pandamonium is offline  
post #123 of 165 Old 06-13-2012, 07:25 PM
Member
 
Byron's Avatar
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pandamonium View Post
i just ordered the test kits and all other aquarium stuff. also i just removed my carbon filter and dosed some fertilizers for my plants. im using the flourish comprehensive. i put in about 3 mL for a 40 gallon tank. i think i will start by dosing once per week and seeing how that goes. then doing it twice per week. frogbit roots are getting long, and i like the look of it. if i ever need to trim them, do i just break off a part of the roots and throw them away?
I personally wouldn't trim roots of Frogbit. They will not get that massive, and even if they did, fish love to swim among these browsing for microscopic food.

That's about right for the Flourish. They say 2.5 ml (= 1/2 teaspoon) doses 30g. Once a week should be sufficient, but after a couple weeks see how the plants are doing. No point in overdosing.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
Byron is offline  
post #124 of 165 Old 06-15-2012, 03:08 AM Thread Starter
so i read the article and i did a little research on altering pH in the natural way without buffers and all that, but i dont quite understand it. i get to raise the pH and hardness, you can use crushed coral or other similar materials. however to lower pH, all i found was peat moss. are there any other ways you know of to do this?
pandamonium is offline  
post #125 of 165 Old 06-15-2012, 12:22 PM
Member
 
Byron's Avatar
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pandamonium View Post
so i read the article and i did a little research on altering pH in the natural way without buffers and all that, but i dont quite understand it. i get to raise the pH and hardness, you can use crushed coral or other similar materials. however to lower pH, all i found was peat moss. are there any other ways you know of to do this?
Peat works to lower GH and pH, but it wears out (how fast depends upon the initial GH and the water volume and amount of peat) and needs regular replacement. A safer way is to simply dilute the water with "pure" water such as rainwater, distilled water or RO (reverse osmosis treated) water.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
Byron is offline  
post #126 of 165 Old 06-15-2012, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
just diluting the water will lower the pH? is this because you remove the buffering capacity?
pandamonium is offline  
post #127 of 165 Old 06-15-2012, 05:47 PM
Member
 
Byron's Avatar
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pandamonium View Post
just diluting the water will lower the pH? is this because you remove the buffering capacity?
Partly, and the "pure" water will also have a lower pH itself.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
Byron is offline  
post #128 of 165 Old 06-15-2012, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
ok i see. that would make sense.
out of curiosity byron, how did you train your woodcats to come out at 5pm every two days to get bloodworms? i would be interested in seeing mine a bit more during the evening :)
pandamonium is offline  
post #129 of 165 Old 06-15-2012, 08:44 PM
Member
 
Byron's Avatar
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pandamonium View Post
ok i see. that would make sense.
out of curiosity byron, how did you train your woodcats to come out at 5pm every two days to get bloodworms? i would be interested in seeing mine a bit more during the evening :)
First, select a time when you will normally be there to feed them, it could be any time; but it will be bloodworms, or shrimp, other worms, whatever. Just their treat. Then the first day you do this, use a baster or similar to squirt the worms where they are, in their tunnel. If you do this at the same time each day you do it, they soon learn. I wouldn't feed bloodworms more than twice a week, but if you can get frozen shrimp or some other similar food, you could do this every day to get them used to it. All I have to do now is slide the cover glass back at that time and out they come. At other times, never see them.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
Byron is offline  
post #130 of 165 Old 06-17-2012, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
crap i just found ich in my tank. i did a frantic search on every forum i knew and google as well to see the methods to use. i found you posts on another person's thread here byron. i am not resorting to medication, though i can see spots on 2 or 3 of my rams and on 1 of my catfish (i think he might die which is terrible :( as i have grown quite accustommed to them). i started raising the temperature on my tank. being that my heater is an inline one, the temperature is going up steadiliy, maybe 1 degree an hour or a tad faster than that. im going to stop it at 86 as i dont think the other catfish can handle a higher temperature.
while browsing i saw that you commented on another person who also had ich. you told them to raise the temperature to 85-86 and leave it there for a bit. im going to do that. i also bought coppersafe as you suggested that as well. my ich development is much further along, there are more than 10 white spots on some of the fish :( i am doing a 50% water change now, then will adminster the coppersafe. i hope the fish survive. also, one of my woodcats is not getting enough to eat. how should i handle that? she is very skinny. im pretty much going to follow the thread as you had it.
Here is what you said:

That is ich, mild but present. I see this often on new fish. Removing the spotted fish is pointless as the ich is in the tank and will attack other fish, so treatment must occur in the tank with the fish when you first see it.

Sometimes you can let this go and the fish will fight it off. But if it were me and I saw what is in your photos, I would treat the tank. Best treatment for sensitive fish is heat and CopperSafe. I have never had issues with this treatment, and I have some very sensitive wild-caught fish.

Raising the temp to at least 90F will work, though I have never tried this since I have fish that cannot tolerate this. I use CopperSafe with the heat raised to 85F.

Do a water change [this is because the tank will not have another for 1-2 weeks] and raise the temperature to 85F partly with the water change and partly by raising the setting on the heater. Add the recommended dose of CopperSafe immediately after the water change; I believe it is one teaspoon per 4 gallons. Remember that substrate, wood, rock will displace some water, so in a 29g tank for instance there will likely be around 23 actual gallons of water, roughly.

Maintain the 85F temp for one full week, then turn the heater back to its normal setting and just let the tank naturally cool down. Do another water change 3-4 days after that.

Byron.
__________________

after the week, how concerned should i be of another outbreak?
pandamonium is offline  
Reply

Tags
amazon biotope habitat

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Amazon river basin biotope moomoofish Beginner Freshwater Aquarium 12 12-23-2011 09:24 PM
Amazon biotope TFish Beginner Freshwater Aquarium 103 09-24-2010 07:54 PM
Amazon Biotope Kelso Beginner Planted Aquarium 10 01-24-2010 11:06 PM
55gal Amazon BioTope petlover516 Beginner Freshwater Aquarium 3 04-11-2009 02:22 PM
Amazon-ish Biotope Nevek Freshwater Journals 8 02-18-2007 05:09 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome