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setting up an amazon biotope/habitat aquarium

This is a discussion on setting up an amazon biotope/habitat aquarium within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Originally Posted by pandamonium ok i see. i just looked up my water quality report. the most recent one was from 2010 so not ...

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setting up an amazon biotope/habitat aquarium
Old 06-13-2012, 12:26 PM   #121
 
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Originally Posted by pandamonium View Post
ok i see. i just looked up my water quality report. the most recent one was from 2010 so not too recent now i guess. im ordering a test kit online (the freshwater master test kit by API as well as the GH KH kit by them too). ill order tomorrow and test when i get it.
as of 2010, the water quality was
TDS average: 95ppm, range of 27-174ppm
hardness (CaCO3) average: 53ppm, range of 8-104ppm
alkalinity (CaCO3) average: 49ppm, range of 8-98ppm
pH average: 8.5, range of 8.2-8.7
calcium average: 12ppm, range of 2-26ppm
magnesium average: 4.6ppm, range of 0.3-9ppm

from these numbers and your sticky, i guess that my water is soft? but yet it has a high pH. ill have real number within a week hopefully.
in the meantime, i was wondering. i have a few rams in the tank and they all get along. there are not many dither fish so they hide a lot but forage when the aquarium lights go out but my room lights are still on. some rams are larger than others. eventually, will they all reach the same size? or will some be stunted?
From those numbers, yes, you have soft water. They are probably adding something to raise the pH, this is not unheard of. But with a low KH the pH should tend to lower (test the tank pH with your new test kit), and you could assist this by diluting the water with pure water. Rainwater works, if it is safe to use where you live. Or distilled water or Reverse Osmosis water.

I can't say on the ram size, there are many factors.
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Old 06-13-2012, 06:25 PM   #122
 
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From those numbers, yes, you have soft water. They are probably adding something to raise the pH, this is not unheard of. But with a low KH the pH should tend to lower (test the tank pH with your new test kit), and you could assist this by diluting the water with pure water. Rainwater works, if it is safe to use where you live. Or distilled water or Reverse Osmosis water.

I can't say on the ram size, there are many factors.
i just ordered the test kits and all other aquarium stuff. also i just removed my carbon filter and dosed some fertilizers for my plants. im using the flourish comprehensive. i put in about 3 mL for a 40 gallon tank. i think i will start by dosing once per week and seeing how that goes. then doing it twice per week. frogbit roots are getting long, and i like the look of it. if i ever need to trim them, do i just break off a part of the roots and throw them away?
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Old 06-13-2012, 07:25 PM   #123
 
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i just ordered the test kits and all other aquarium stuff. also i just removed my carbon filter and dosed some fertilizers for my plants. im using the flourish comprehensive. i put in about 3 mL for a 40 gallon tank. i think i will start by dosing once per week and seeing how that goes. then doing it twice per week. frogbit roots are getting long, and i like the look of it. if i ever need to trim them, do i just break off a part of the roots and throw them away?
I personally wouldn't trim roots of Frogbit. They will not get that massive, and even if they did, fish love to swim among these browsing for microscopic food.

That's about right for the Flourish. They say 2.5 ml (= 1/2 teaspoon) doses 30g. Once a week should be sufficient, but after a couple weeks see how the plants are doing. No point in overdosing.
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Old 06-15-2012, 03:08 AM   #124
 
so i read the article and i did a little research on altering pH in the natural way without buffers and all that, but i dont quite understand it. i get to raise the pH and hardness, you can use crushed coral or other similar materials. however to lower pH, all i found was peat moss. are there any other ways you know of to do this?
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Old 06-15-2012, 12:22 PM   #125
 
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so i read the article and i did a little research on altering pH in the natural way without buffers and all that, but i dont quite understand it. i get to raise the pH and hardness, you can use crushed coral or other similar materials. however to lower pH, all i found was peat moss. are there any other ways you know of to do this?
Peat works to lower GH and pH, but it wears out (how fast depends upon the initial GH and the water volume and amount of peat) and needs regular replacement. A safer way is to simply dilute the water with "pure" water such as rainwater, distilled water or RO (reverse osmosis treated) water.
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Old 06-15-2012, 03:51 PM   #126
 
just diluting the water will lower the pH? is this because you remove the buffering capacity?
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Old 06-15-2012, 05:47 PM   #127
 
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just diluting the water will lower the pH? is this because you remove the buffering capacity?
Partly, and the "pure" water will also have a lower pH itself.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:17 PM   #128
 
ok i see. that would make sense.
out of curiosity byron, how did you train your woodcats to come out at 5pm every two days to get bloodworms? i would be interested in seeing mine a bit more during the evening :)
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:44 PM   #129
 
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ok i see. that would make sense.
out of curiosity byron, how did you train your woodcats to come out at 5pm every two days to get bloodworms? i would be interested in seeing mine a bit more during the evening :)
First, select a time when you will normally be there to feed them, it could be any time; but it will be bloodworms, or shrimp, other worms, whatever. Just their treat. Then the first day you do this, use a baster or similar to squirt the worms where they are, in their tunnel. If you do this at the same time each day you do it, they soon learn. I wouldn't feed bloodworms more than twice a week, but if you can get frozen shrimp or some other similar food, you could do this every day to get them used to it. All I have to do now is slide the cover glass back at that time and out they come. At other times, never see them.
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:17 AM   #130
 
crap i just found ich in my tank. i did a frantic search on every forum i knew and google as well to see the methods to use. i found you posts on another person's thread here byron. i am not resorting to medication, though i can see spots on 2 or 3 of my rams and on 1 of my catfish (i think he might die which is terrible :( as i have grown quite accustommed to them). i started raising the temperature on my tank. being that my heater is an inline one, the temperature is going up steadiliy, maybe 1 degree an hour or a tad faster than that. im going to stop it at 86 as i dont think the other catfish can handle a higher temperature.
while browsing i saw that you commented on another person who also had ich. you told them to raise the temperature to 85-86 and leave it there for a bit. im going to do that. i also bought coppersafe as you suggested that as well. my ich development is much further along, there are more than 10 white spots on some of the fish :( i am doing a 50% water change now, then will adminster the coppersafe. i hope the fish survive. also, one of my woodcats is not getting enough to eat. how should i handle that? she is very skinny. im pretty much going to follow the thread as you had it.
Here is what you said:

That is ich, mild but present. I see this often on new fish. Removing the spotted fish is pointless as the ich is in the tank and will attack other fish, so treatment must occur in the tank with the fish when you first see it.

Sometimes you can let this go and the fish will fight it off. But if it were me and I saw what is in your photos, I would treat the tank. Best treatment for sensitive fish is heat and CopperSafe. I have never had issues with this treatment, and I have some very sensitive wild-caught fish.

Raising the temp to at least 90F will work, though I have never tried this since I have fish that cannot tolerate this. I use CopperSafe with the heat raised to 85F.

Do a water change [this is because the tank will not have another for 1-2 weeks] and raise the temperature to 85F partly with the water change and partly by raising the setting on the heater. Add the recommended dose of CopperSafe immediately after the water change; I believe it is one teaspoon per 4 gallons. Remember that substrate, wood, rock will displace some water, so in a 29g tank for instance there will likely be around 23 actual gallons of water, roughly.

Maintain the 85F temp for one full week, then turn the heater back to its normal setting and just let the tank naturally cool down. Do another water change 3-4 days after that.

Byron.
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after the week, how concerned should i be of another outbreak?
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