Questions on how to set up a big tank - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 28 Old 07-01-2009, 02:56 AM
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I agree with Byron in regards to the benefits of using tank water to help with maturing or (cycling )process. There is little benefit derived from doing so. I am not a fan of ANY of the cycle in a bottle or bacteria in a bottle products that are available. In my mind the bacteria they promise to deliver would be of little value for without oxygen, (sealed bottle) you are just adding dead organics. I would use live bacterial material from an existing tank if possible and if not,, The only thing needed for the aquarium is dechlorinator for new water before it goes in the tank. Opinions vary,and this is mine.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #12 of 28 Old 07-01-2009, 06:12 AM
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I agree with Byron and 1077....water doesn't hold much value, if any. Byron made a good point about the bottle chemicals needing something to feed off of .I just made the same transfer you did (a 20G to a 55G). I had a Penguin Bio-Wheel 200 on my 20 Gallon tank....I bought the same filter type for my 55G (bought two penguin 350's). All I did when I made the move was add the biowheel and pads from my 20G into one of the 350 and let both of them run at the same time. (both 350's)

When I moved the 20G bio-wheel and pads to the 55G, I brought my fish right along with it....they worked as an ammonia souce. The old filter media and the new have been running together for about 2 weeks now. I had to do a couple of water changes since then, but all my fish appear healthy and my parameters have been in check ever since.

Don't waste your time with moving water over, just add your established filter from the 20G to the 55G and add any new filters you're plan on running and let them both run together, keep your parameters in line and you'll be ok.
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post #13 of 28 Old 07-01-2009, 08:55 AM
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Awesome, thanks for all the info. Now I know. As for what the cycling product they sell actually is, I am not sure what the chemical or biological makeup is, I wasn't really wanting to put much faith in it for many of the same reasons as you guys mentioned. If I head over to the store today I will take a look and see what it actually is comprised of.

Also, I recently bought an API tap water filter. I'm assuming I would be better off doing the first fill of the tank with dechlorinated tap water than the deionized water from the filter (which would also take forever) so that the water has good mineral content, and I don't have to add anything back in. Am I correct on this assumption?
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post #14 of 28 Old 07-01-2009, 09:09 AM
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I would stick with regular tapwater and dechlorinator for ALL water changes and try and purchase fish that do well with the ph you have from the tap. If at some later date,you decide you would like to alter the water chemistry to keep some species that may prefer different water than you have from the tap, then we can cross that bridge.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #15 of 28 Old 07-01-2009, 10:20 AM
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I second what 1077 says....you never know if your filter will break and then you stuck using tap water when you fish are acclimated to the filtered water
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post #16 of 28 Old 07-01-2009, 12:04 PM
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Thanks for all the info and advice guys. I hope all of this is helping the OP to get a better plan set for their upgrade as well.

I checked out the cycle product at the store, and it's just called "Instant Cycle" or something to that effect, and it appears to be ammonia with some other minerals added, no biological additives. Comes with a guarantee, but a guarantee won't replace dead fish.

As far as dechlorinator goes, what would you recommend? I've been using the tetra brand so far but if there is a more effective kind I'd be happy to give it a try.
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post #17 of 28 Old 07-02-2009, 01:36 AM
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In my view there is only one Dechlorinator, Seachems Prime Water conditioner. My second choice would be Amquel+ (plus).Enough said.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #18 of 28 Old 07-02-2009, 05:05 AM
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+1 for Seachem...i made the switch from API Stress Coat
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post #19 of 28 Old 07-02-2009, 09:08 AM
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I've used Kordon's NovAqua for 15 years, never had reason to use another. It removes chlorine, chloramine and heavy metals, and adds a protective coating for fish. The ones the others have mentioned are much the same but have (I believe) an ammonia detoxifier. I would only use that if there is ammonia in the tap water (some places do have this unfortnately). Otherwise, I prefer to let the bacteria handle the amonia naturally and not interfere with the cycle. Ammonia "removers" do not remove ammonia, they detoxify it so it is still there. But the bacteria actually remove it by consuming it. I've never seen the point of another chemical in a tank without need.

Another comment on the water I'd forgotten earlier, is that transferring water from an existing tank is transferring everything in it--ammonia, waste, pathogens, whatever. No need to overload a new tank with all this. We've all agreed not to transfer water, but this is just another reason.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #20 of 28 Old 07-02-2009, 09:43 AM
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Qquestion: protective coating...of what?? Allantoin? Didn't I read somewhere that it can "gunk" up the water? Obviously if you're using it that's not the case. Just wondering what the ingredient was in NovAqua that aids in the slime coat.

If you don't stand up for something you'll fall for anything...
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